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I have the resettable gh temp limit switch on a Norcold 1210…

I have the resettable high...
I have the resettable high temp limit switch on a Norcold 1210 model rv fridge. I got the L1 oP message just before I got home. I cleaned the area around the back of the unit, checked the flue, no obstructions. How do I reset the high temp limit switch?
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Answered in 19 minutes by:
9/9/2015
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 7 years ago
Michael Reush
Michael Reush, RV Technician
Category: RV
Satisfied Customers: 3,309
Experience: Serving the rv industry since 1977
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Hi, does your refer have a black box clipped to the cooling unit in the rear? and is there a red light on? thanks

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
it has the black box clipped on the coils.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 7 years ago

thanks is the red light on or flashing? also on the high temp switch have you checked for 12volts going to one side and coming out of the other?

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
The red light is on solid. I checked the 12V and GND connection on the left side of the black box. 12V. I then checked the RIGHT side of the box, marked 12V out against GNC. NO voltage.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 7 years ago

thanks the box needs to be reset.................you need to take a good magnet, and hold it on the red light until it goes out, it can take up to a minute..................

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Wow, just place a magnet on the front of the box below the red light? I'm trying it in one minute.OK, tried the magnet... It didn't work. Even opened the little black box and placed the magnet directly on top of the small back relay box. Still no improvement. Do I need a stronger magnet or is there something else?
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 7 years ago

thanks. is the heat stack cool? it could be the magnet, we can get the refer working by bypassing the sensor, was the refer cooling properly prior to this event? and do the fans work in the rear?

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Hello again Mike... Let's bypass the high temp limit switch to verify that is the problem. Can you describe which wires to disconnect to bypass the limiter? Thanks
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 7 years ago

Hi, the black box has a 12volt positive wire going to it. it also has a blue wire that goes from the box to the control board. unplug the 12volt + wire and then unplug the blue wire off the control board...........Install the 12v + wire on the board, and it should work..................if the thermal switch is questionable on the heat stack, you can unplug its wires from the control board, and 'loop' them attatching a wire from one terminal to the other...............please get back to me for clarification if necessary, if the refer starts, test it overnight for temp in the am, we need to make sure there is not a problem with the cooling unit, as this is what the switch's are protecting against overheating in the event of a blockage or the ammonia leaking out.................Michael

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Great! I can just disconnect the 12V + and the blue 12V line from the limit switch, connect them and that will bypass the switch. I'll talk with you in the morning. THANKS! ..... Voila! I just jumpered the 2 wires together and the fridge started right up!! Will advise in the morning...
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 7 years ago

Great I will talk to you tomorrow, lets see if it cools..............truth be known the switch's are somewhat of an overkill, and do malfuction at times, lets make sure this is the case.................could you please take this time to rate me so I receive credit for our work together, we can still communicate after the rating, thanks Michael

Michael Reush
Michael Reush, RV Technician
Category: RV
Satisfied Customers: 3,309
Experience: Serving the rv industry since 1977
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Good morning Mike. 22 degrees F on the ceiling of the freezer compartment. 44 degrees on the fins on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment- after 3 hours running. Also, the cooling fan at the top of the flue does turn on and off while fridge is running. Not knowing for sure what the problem could be, I did not leave the unit running all night. I ran it for 3 hours after I made the jumper wire to bypass the high temp limit switch, then turned it off for the night. This morning I used my IR digital thermometer to measure the temps. Is there a way to know how cold the cooling fins should be? How hot should the cooling stack be? Should I add an extra 12V pancake style cooling fan? Where do I buy a replacement high temp switch without having to go to an RV store and have them insist on doing the replacement work? You have been a great help!!!!I forgot to mention, this morning I turned the unit back on and measured the temps after 3 hours of running time.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 7 years ago

Good morning, more fans are better as moving the heat out is the key, , the black box cannot be purchaced............ unfortunatly if it will not be reset you need to take it to an authorized norcold facility to get it replaced........let the heat stack cool, overnight, then try the magnet on the light. I have seen the fins down to 30' and then the box should be in the 36' range I would for testing purposes run it overnight, put some water bottles in it if its empty

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Hello again Mike. After 8 hours running, freezer compartment ceiling is 11 degrees, fins in main box are 28 degrees! I think the refrigerator is working well. I will shut it down, let it cool overnight and try the magnet on the little black box again in the morning. I just purchased a stronger magnet this afternoon to see if it will reset the light. Does the power to the box need to be connected and the fridge ON when I try to reset the switch, or do I try to reset with the power OFF? Bummer on the black box replacement plan... I will advise in the morning what I discover! Thanks a million, you are making this much easier and making me a better motorhome owner. Bill
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 7 years ago

Hi good news on the refer, refer does not have to be on, reconnect the power to it, and the blue wire back to the control.. let me know..........Michael

power does have to be on the 12v+ wire to the box

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Roger that! Understand the power has to be connected to black box (12V+) and blue (12V+ OUT) to board also needs to be connected. FYI, just checked temps on the coils (heat stack?) and the black canister at the bottom right of the stack; top of stack 118F, bottom of stack 150F and canister 135F. Unit has been running11 hours. Now shut down for cooling and another attempt on the reset.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 7 years ago

all is looking good..........Michael

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Hello again Mike, Here's the update. Heat stack cold. NEW magnet from Home Depot- gosh you can HEAR the relay click! BUT- the only way to get 12V power to the black box is to turn on the fridge. The good news, the fridge works. The bad news, the light is still on. Apparently the magnet holds the relay open (or closed-whatever is required to make the fridge work...). Remove the magnet, light is still on and the L1 oP warning and audible signal return. Magnet has been in-place for an hour. The light will not go out, but fridge works. One more interesting development: When I unplug the 110vac , the red light remains on (still powered by the 12vdc out from the circuit board), but the L1 oP warning and audible alarm return. Plugging in the 110vac causes the fridge to start again and the warning signals to go away. I cannot hear the limit switch click when I do these steps, which leads me to believe it remains in the proper position due to the magnet and the 12vdc power to the black box. Is it time to go see the Norcold repair place here in Phoenix? It bugs me that I can't be trusted to replace the little black box. However, I understand Norcold has to ensure all the other steps that might have caused the overheat have been resolved. Looking forward to your reply on this latest development. Bill
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 7 years ago

Hi we want the light out, this is when the blue wire should be energized, thereby sending power to the control module. and the wire that goes into the box is from the coach wiring, make sure this is correct. and you are correct its not so much as the replacment of the box, its the testing of the cooling unit they will do to insure there is not another issue causing the failure. I'm not far away in quartzsite, cooling down isnt it great

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Hello again Mike. yep, cooling down is a good thing. Looks like this fall, winter and spring may be a bit wetter and cooler, courtesy of El Nino. The only way I have been able to get the red light out is to bypass the black box (basically connecting the 12V+ line to the 12V+ OUT from the black box. Connecting the 12vdc IN To get power TO the black box turns the red light on as soon as I turn on the fridge. Unless I turn on the fridge, I do not get a hot 12vdc input to the black box. Maybe I should try powering the black box from an external 12v source like a small trickle charger instead of the fridge circuit board? This would permit me to power the box without turning on the fridge. As we sit at present, with all the wires connected to the black box, the blue wire at the box is powered when I turn on the fridge AND use the magnet to pull the reset circuit to the position that allows power to flow out the blue line, allowing the fridge to turn on. Unfortunately, the magnet is not resetting the box and thereby turning the red light off... Beats me!
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 7 years ago

good morning, I'm afraid the box is bad.......

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
I concur. If we can get power through the box using the magnet, the relay has to be resetting, thus allowing the current flow, yet the light remains on. However, the relay will not stay reset as it is intended to do. Sounds like a bad box. Camping World in Mesa is a Norcold repair facility. Sounds like I need to make an appointment with them.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 7 years ago

Unfortunatly, thats the only way to get a replacment box......should be warranty

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago
Good morning again Mike. GREAT NEWS! I had been placing the magnet at the wrong place! I thought the big relay that sticks out of the front of the switch was the place for the magnet because this position would make a big clicking noise and enable power to the fridge as long as the magnet was in-place. I found a drawing online that placed the magnet just to the left of the light. Surprise, there is a smaller click, the light goes out and the fridge works with the magnet removed!!!!!! I have operated the fridge on 110AC as well as propane for 2 days. Inside freezer temps are below zero and inside fridge, the fins are around 23-25 degrees. Outside, the heat stack temps were 120 at the top, up to 150 at the bottom. (Outside air temp was 105) I placed a household electric fan on the ground about 5 feet lower than the opening on the side of the motorhome and blew air on the heat stack. Temps went down to 105 to 130! Is it safe to say I don't have a leak with these inside the unit and heat stack temperatures. You can bet I'll be buying and installing a fan to push air up and out of the space behind the fridge real soon! I have found a 12v pancake computer style fan that pushes almost 200cfm! It draws .5 amps. A bit noisier than the rest of the similar style fans, but 4 times the airflow. This ought to keep plenty of airflow across the heatstack and the back side of the unit. Your thoughts?PS. I have already done the credit card thing and included a tip. Did you receive?
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 7 years ago

Wow, thats a great thing, and I will keep that in mind when I advise others, I I did receive payment, thank you

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