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dometic rm 1282 frige not cooling in cabinet..seals

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dometic rm 1282 frige not...
dometic rm 1282 frige not cooling in cabinet, freezer good and good blue cleam flame and door seals good. what is wrong please
John
Submitted: 10 years ago.Category: RV
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Answered in 6 hours by:
2/17/2012
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 10 years ago
Randall
Randall, RVIA Certification
Category: RV
Satisfied Customers: 28,178
Experience: RVDA/RVIA Master Certified Technician with many years experience.
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Hi: John........Thank you for coming to Just Answer with your question. My name is XXXXX XXXXX perhaps I can assist you with this issue.

 

Is the fridge level? And when was the last time you had the LP pressure checked at the tank regulator? When you get back to me please include the Product number off the data tag. And do you have a multimeter so we can do some testing? R.J.

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Customer reply replied 10 years ago

yes it is level and the freezer works well so the gas pressure has to be good. I do have a multimeter. It is in my class a deisel motorhome (Foretravel) and has been fine for years. I keep the burner clean and good flame. The weathe here in mexico has been hot but I have a tarp covering the outside wall in the sun to keep it cool. I have taken the roof vent off to check for flow and had a fan in bottom vent cover to blow up and help with exiting of heat. The humidity and ambient switches are in the right mode. so what now??

John

RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 10 years ago
You really can't tell about the LP pressure without testing it and that should be done at least once a year. One way to get an idea if it is low is to turn on a stove top burner on full and see if there is any yellow/red in the edges of the flame. If so, the pressure is too low.
Go and CLICK HERE for a copy of the Service Manual they use for this. I would print out a copy or at least Bookmark this so you can come back to it.

I do have a few questions based on what you said. Is this tarp covering up either the roof vent or the side vent? When you look in the inspection hole for the burner is the flame kind of lazy or does it look like it is lifting off the burner and "dancing" and making a dull roar which you can hear?

If you have a multimeter you can test the thermister. If this goes bad it can affect the cooling. Usually it overcools, but not always. See the manual for testing. On AC mode I would be concerned that one of the heating elements is bad. That can be tested with a meter and you do have one. Check these other things first and we can go from there if needed. Follow ups are included in our fee. R.J.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago

the tarp is not covering either vent as it is well away from the body of MHome it is to keep sun off body so the sun does not heat behind fridge space.. The top vent I took off and raised 8" to allow the heat out better. Blue flame above burner but top of flame orange (seem to remember it this way for long time. The flame is jumping around somewhat above the burner tube. I had it on 120 overnight and freezer is -6c and cabinet around 19c. I have now put it on gas. The rear cooling tubes are just slightly warm !!! I will compare my neighbours temps to mine. I will also turn gas etc off and try to clean out flue the blow out burner tube to try that as well. I will look at the testing of thermister etc. We need this thing bad and of course down here there are no experts.

John

RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 10 years ago
If it works good on AC and not on LP then the pressure is too low OR the burner is bad and needs to be replaced. This happens after some time from the moisture and heat. Or in some cases it is the baffle in the flue that goes bad and burns up. You need like a dental mirror to see up there once you remove the burner assy. That is the thermocouple you are seeing on the "orange" area. Take the tank regulator and remove the cap on the side and turn the adjusting screw in two full turns and see if that improves this. R.J.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago

the cooling is not working right on 120 in cabinet either, but good in freezer (like on gas) I will check the flue after removing the burner assy.

John

RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 10 years ago
Are the cooling fan(s) coming on? Is this installation in a slide out? And did you check the installation specs? Let me know what the gap is between the coils on the cooling unit and the wall of the coach. It needs to be less than 1/4". And you might take a look down the top after removing the vent lid and see if any insulation fell down on the condenser area.
Anything like that impeding the air flow will affect the cooling. R.J.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago

I will check the insulation plus gaps but as this unit has worked fine for 5 yrs I cannot see a problem with these-but will look. I have just removed the burner assembly and looked up the flue-seems ok and I blew compressed air up it and it is clean. Burner assy looks fine and I checked the 120 elements for continuity-all good so they work as I checked the 120 source and ok. I just do not understand if the freezer works fine why not the cabinet and what is the main difference between frezzer and the cabinet. What allows one to work but not other???

Back to the unit and put together. Then check vent etc

John

RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 10 years ago
A number of things can cause this.............it might be a blockage in the cooling unit and you hope that isn't the case. Did you turn the pressure up two turns on the regulator? Clockwise increases the pressure. R.J.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago

that has been mentioned to me and if it turns out then I guess it is a new unit needed. I forgot to ask about the fans you mentioned as there are none on it and it is not in a slide out.

John

RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 10 years ago
Just trying not to overlook any possible cause. Some installs add a fan for added air flow.
Did you look down from the top yet for any insulation or other debris on the condenser? I have seen construction trash fall on there. Don't forget to try turning up the pressure on the regulator. If this is a low flame issue you should be able to see the difference. And what was the result of the thermister testing? R.J.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago

just had a look at upper area from top vent. Nothing there all clear but the distance from wall insulation is aroun 3/4". Have not done thermister yet or turning up pressure.

I still do not see that as a problem as we have it on 120 as well and pressure does not affect the electric side!
john

RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 10 years ago
That is true to a point.............if the AC voltage is low it will also keep the voltage low at the heating elements and they won't get as hot. Or if you have one going bad it will reduce the heat. I have seen problems on both AC and LP modes at the same time. Just not wanting to overlook anything here. R.J.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago

I have turned the reg valve in 2 turns as you suggest and do not see any real change in flame but will let it run today and see. I also gave the tubing from bottom reservoir a good few raps with hammer to see if that may release any blockage.

John

RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 10 years ago
O.K........get back to me with the results. Rapping the unit usually doesn't help much. R.J.
Randall
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