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replaceing..one going to black hot wire and other going to a board…

i am replaceing a gc10a-3e...
i am replaceing a gc10a-3e with gc10a-4e. the 3e has blue,brown,green on water heater and on off switch on the back with two leeds. one going to black hot wire and other going to a board on the back of water heater. my trouble is the 4e has has brown,orange,white,blue and a new switch gas,light.electric. how do i wire the new switch as the leeds are to short to reach a place to mount. please i must work 150 miles from home and my dad is very old. i have to leave for work tommorow after noon and dad has no hot water. thanks for you time and help.
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Answered in 21 minutes by:
10/9/2011
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 10 years ago
Randall
Randall, RVIA Certification
Category: RV
Satisfied Customers: 27,735
Experience: RVDA/RVIA Master Certified Technician with many years experience.
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Hi: Thank you for coming to Just Answer with your question. My name is XXXXX XXXXX perhaps I can assist you with this issue.

Go HERE for the wiring diagrams on all these models. The main difference is that now the board controls a relay to turn on the AC element instead of a standard on/off switch on the old one. Print out a copy of this and lay the two diagrams side by side and see what functions each has. If you have trouble, get back to me and we can work though this. Follow ups are included in our fee. R.J.
Randall
Randall, RVIA Certification
Category: RV
Satisfied Customers: 27,735
Experience: RVDA/RVIA Master Certified Technician with many years experience.
Verified
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago

i did that and still dont under stand. the leeds coming off the water heater are short. do i just hook up the wires and leave the switch in the water heater compartment unmouted. also do i not use the control wires that i cut away from the old water heater at all? power in the back i am good with black black white white green green. it is how an where to hook the control wires.

RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 10 years ago
On the 3e model............blue is for the remote lockout lamp and it is the same on the new 4e model. Green is ground on both models. Brown is the positive feed to the LP side. The difference is the orange lead now does this. This is a positive feed from the new switch to control the LP relay on the control board. The white supplies the feed to the AC relay. They just went from a standard AC switch like on the back of the 3e model to a relay controlled by 12 VDC on the new one. The positive leads on the element which are the black leads still hook up the same way. The white lead just does this as a remote switch.
There isn't supposed to be any brown lead coming to the new switch.......so check that.
Was the old water heater not repairable? R.J.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago

ok i think i get it. it is cold and dark in the oregon hight desert so i will try this first am. thanks for you help r.j. try you tomorrow if i fall on my face. you have a good night.

RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 10 years ago
I live in Northern California and will be here all day. R.J.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago

hi r.j. this is what i did. with all feeds from the water heater to switch orange to switch left bottom term. blue to light top trem. white to switch right side bottom trem. power from back of water heater. black to black. white to white. green to ground wire with green from water heater. terry has a breaker. hooked up water,gas on. switch to on and nothing didnt even try to light gas. no light on the switch no elect on that side either. this is a brand new w.h i am stumped. when i took the old one out all was working fine just bad leak my dad had a guy he knows come look he said he need a knew one i was working. not sure what to do next.

RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 10 years ago
Do you have a multimeter so you can actually take some voltage measurements on the leads to see where you have power? You need to see what is the power into the switch and I think it should be brown. This is the power from the fuse. With a multimeter you can also check the continuity on the terminals when you put the switches in various positions.
There needs to be a jumper wire to give 12 VDC to both switches. On the LP side you should have a hot lead which I think will be brown to one leg and the orange will go out. This works the LP side. The brown lead should have a lead that ties into that pin going over to the other switch to feed power to it. Then the white lead comes out of that switch to provide 12 VDC to the solenoid for the AC element. The blue goes to the light and the other side goes to ground. With a meter or test light you can tell here what is happening. Hope that is clear............just be sure you have 12 VDC power to BOTH switches and from the same pins.........either the tops or the bottoms. Copper is usually the positive feed color. R.J.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago

I don't have a multimeter but a jumper wire was already on the switch however, there is a brown lead coming from the trailer that I think you are telling me to attach to the top 12 volt lead. Will this power the switch?

 

Thanks a lot R.J.

 

Kal

RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 10 years ago
Yes, it should............unless the fuse is blown. Try to find a test light or multimeter. This is almost a must for this sort of diagnosis. You need that to "see" the power. R.J.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago

I hooked the brown incoming lead that was already on the trailer without any success. I will go into town and get a test light.

 

Thank you for all of your help.

 

Kal

RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 10 years ago
The fuse may be blown in the power center...........check that and have some spares. R.J.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
in the rv the box has a breaker for the w.h. might thier be a fuse to i see fuses but none are marked w.h.
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 10 years ago
It is usually on its own fuse but may not be. The breaker is for the 120 VAC side. It should be a 15 amp fuse. R.J.
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Customer reply replied 10 years ago
ok thanks. i will head in to town and get this stuff and try this. thanks r.j.
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 10 years ago
Get back to me with what you find...........
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