I have a Dometic RM3663 3-way RV fridge, prod no 921 14 40-51, ser no 141 00010. It will start up on 120VAC and run for
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Customer: I have a Dometic RM3663 3-way RV fridge, prod no 921 14 40-51, ser no 141 00010.
It will start up on 120VAC and run for a while then either switch to LP gas or seems to stop and turn on the "check" light. Turning it off an then back on after a few minutes seems to reset it. Usually have to cycle the on/off two or three times before it finally resets. When it is on, it does cool. The controller is 3-way with p/n(NNN) NNN-NNNN01
Also sometimes it is difficult to cycle the unit to use 120VAC. Using the push buttons to try to manually select 120VAC, the unit toggles between LP and 12V even though 120VAC is present. Fuses, breakers, and connections are all good.
It will start up on 120VAC and run for a while then either switch to LP gas or seems to stop and turn on the "check" light. Turning it off an then back on after a few minutes seems to reset it. Usually have to cycle the on/off two or three times before it finally resets. When it is on, it does cool. The controller is 3-way with p/n(NNN) NNN-NNNN01
Also sometimes it is difficult to cycle the unit to use 120VAC. Using the push buttons to try to manually select 120VAC, the unit toggles between LP and 12V even though 120VAC is present. Fuses, breakers, and connections are all good.
Answered by Steve F. in 4 days 11 years ago
Steve F.
Auto Mechanic
438 satisfied customers
Specialities include: Auto Body Technician, Heavy Equipment Repairs, Heavy Duty Engine Repairs, Brake and Transmission Repairs
Hi,
It sounds to me like it may be a power problem. If you have a multi-tester or volt meter, measure the AC voltage at the fridge outlet, especially when the problem occurs. You should obviously measure ~115V there.
If your power at the outlet is good and there is no apparent wiring problem, then you likely have a bad control board. You should remove it and have it tested.
Customer
Sorry I am slow getting back to you. I have a multimeter and checked all voltages and cleaned connections checking for loose wires and/or corrosion. So far nothing obviously wrong or at fault. There is a "test lead" wire hanging free from the board. Is there anything else I can try? As you know, intermittent problems are the hardest to find.
I think the next step would be to take the control board in to be tested. If there don't seem to be any loose, broken, or corroded wires, we can suspect the board may be faulty.
Did you measure the 12V coming into the terminal block at the back of the fridge? If this voltage is low it could easily cause the problem. The same is true if the stranded wiring is not securely attached at the terminal block. Make sure all or most of the stranded wiring is secure in the terminal block or else the wire may not be able to carry enough current, even though the voltage may be okay.
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BackSteve F.
438 satisfied customers
Auto Mechanic
Steve F.
Auto Mechanic
438 satisfied customers
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