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I have a 12 year old Jandy pool system that has been pretty…

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Hi, I have a...

Hi, I have a 12 year old Jandy pool system that has been pretty maintenance free except for this year. Pool keeps changing from clear water to cloudy to tinted green with brown stains on slide. Goes away with stain removal acidic product. Replaced large and small filters, stopped flow to/from heater to bypass heater in case it was rusty. Cleaned new filters when pool changed colors again. After about a week of crystal clear water, pool water is again green. Also replaced cell salt a couple of years ago. Any ideas on what might be cause for this continued issue? Chlorine is being made from chlorinator and level had been at 3100-3200 except when we have had to stop the chlorine production to use the various stain removal products.

Contractor's Assistant: Who manufactured the pool?

Not sure what you mean? I had a pool company build the pool but it's a jandy system and we have a Polaris

Contractor's Assistant: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?

If possible

Contractor's Assistant: Anything else we should know to help you best?

Also tried to use H2O2 several weeks ago when problem initially started but that didn't do anything. The water going from clear to eventually green has now happened 4 times over the past 4-5 weeks

Submitted: 6 months ago.Category: Pool and Spa
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Answered in 1 hour by:
8/6/2017
Pool and Spa Expert: AMIT, Technician replied 6 months ago
AMIT
AMIT, Technician
Category: Pool and Spa
Satisfied Customers: 99
Experience: 15 years in pool service
Verified

It sounds like perhaps your pump is not circulating the water at the correct PSI as it used to. Stagnant water will turn green. (just like when you pump is off) I would check to make sure there is nothing clogging the strainer, check for good suction at the baskets. Place a small leaf in the water about 6 inches away from the coping, then count how long it takes for the leaf to go into the basket. It should be about 30 seconds or less. If it just floats by then there is something clogging your intake. You will then want to water jet the intake up until the stop-valve.

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Ok. Will check later, can't right now. Can I circle back with you tomorrow morning?
Customer reply replied 6 months ago
When we put in new filters, psi didn't change; stayed at 10-12 psi.
Customer reply replied 6 months ago
When we put in new filters the psi didn't change. It's been consistently 10-12 psi. What should it be?
Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Tried the leaf in front of skimmer. Took 6 seconds for it to be pulled into basket. Pool is not making chlorine. Put on super chlorinator on all night and chlorine is still zero; salt level is at 3100.
Pool and Spa Expert: James Hankins, Technician replied 6 months ago
James Hankins
James Hankins, Technician
Category: Pool and Spa
Satisfied Customers: 21
Experience: Maintenance Supervisor/Account Manager at Sears Pool Management Consultants
Verified

Hi, my name is ***** ***** I'll be glad to try and help you take care of this issue. If the pool is turning green, that's probably algae starting to grow in the pool because it's not being chlorinated. The first thing I would suggest (if the pool is currently green or turning green again) is to purchase an algaecide. The algaecide I personally use is Focus 60 Plus and it works very well.

Add the algaecide according to the directions (I believe it's 12 ounces per 10,000 gallons of water in the pool, but check the bottle to make sure) and then shock the pool with calcium hypochlorite (granular chlorine). That will ensure the algae and green color stay gone and your pool stays clear and safe to swim in while you're taking care of the underlying issue, which I believe is the salt system.

A salt level of 3100 is almost perfect for chlorine production, so the issue must be with the cell or the controller, since you say despite the salt level, it's not generating chlorine. Can you tell me what brand and model salt cell and controller you're using? It could be a low flow alarm, which will stop chlorine production, or it could be an electrical issue with the cell. If there are any error codes or lights that are blinking or acting differently since this issue started, that would help also.

Please bear in mind that I'm not an employee of JustAnswer, I'm subcontracted to answer questions, so I may not respond right away. But I am notified when you post here, so if you have any other questions or respond with any new information, I'll know and I'll get back to you as soon as I'm able!

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Hello James,
The cell is a T-15 and it is a Aqua Rite system. There are no flashing lights nor error codes.
Pool and Spa Expert: James Hankins, Technician replied 6 months ago

Okay, so no flashing lights or error codes... let's get in a little deeper. You said the chlorine level was zero; did you test it yourself or did you take it to a pool supply store? If you tested it yourself, was it absolute zero or just very low? And can you tell me the other chemical level results? For example, the pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness and cyanuric acid (stabilizer) levels? And last but not least, what is your "desired output" set to on the control panel? This information can help me narrow down possible culprits.

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Pool and Spa Expert: James Hankins, Technician replied 6 months ago

Okay, great! And yes, desired output is the percentage for chlorine production, or the cell power. Some controllers label it as "desired output." So, first off, I'm sure you noticed that the calcium hardness is low. That's not too much of a problem for you, having a vinyl liner, and likely not related to this issue, but I do suggest bringing that up.

What may be pertinent to your problem is the cyanuric acid, which I see is also low. Cyanuric acid, or stabilizer, is used to keep chlorine from evaporating out of the water as quickly due to UV (sunlight) and other factors. Basically, it keeps chlorine more potent for a longer period of time. Adding some cyanuric acid to your water will help keep your chlorine level higher for longer. I'd say get the cyanuric acid up to around 60-70 ppm and leave the output at 100%, then check it after about 24 hours (since salt cells usually take a while to generate and diffuse the chlorine through the entire pool). Then check the chlorine level again.

Also, your pH is a little high. That means any chlorine in the water is acting more as an oxidizer than a sanitizer, so it's possible that it may be burning off faster than it would if the pH were lower, ideally around 7.4 or 7.6.

And lastly, since the Total Available Chlorine is so much higher than the Free Available Chlorine, this might be contributing to the issue. After you add the stabilizer and restest after a day, I'd suggest superchlorinating the pool to burn off the combined chlorine (chloramines), which is essentially the by-product that's left after free chlorine does the work of oxidizing and sanitizing the pool. This may help raise your chlorine level, as well.

Let me know the result if you try this and if it doesn't help, we'll keep digging!

And please bear in mind that I'm not an employee of JustAnswer, I'm subcontracted to answer questions, so I may not respond right away. But I am notified when you post here, so if you have any other questions or respond with any new information, I'll know and I'll get back to you as soon as I'm able!

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Pool and Spa Expert: James Hankins, Technician replied 6 months ago

Hey, just wanted to touch base with you and see if you were able to take care of the issue. Remember, you can still continue to ask questions here and we'll keep working on the problem. Or if something I suggested was helpful, don't forget to rate my answer and let me know! Hope your pool is running well now!

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James Hankins
James Hankins
James Hankins, Technician
Category: Pool and Spa
Satisfied Customers: 21
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Experience: Maintenance Supervisor/Account Manager at Sears Pool Management Consultants

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