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My tub isn't heating. I was having a flo error, tested the

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pressure switch. It tested as...
My tub isn't heating. I was having a flo error, tested the pressure switch. It tested as being faulty, so I replaced it. Cleaned all the filters, drained and refilled it. It rose a whopping 3 degrees over night. Thoughts?
Submitted: 2 years ago.Category: Pool and Spa
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12/6/2015
Pool and Spa Expert: garrygoeson, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago
garrygoeson
garrygoeson, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Pool and Spa
Satisfied Customers: 469
Experience: Over 27 years Repairing Pool & Spa Equipment,Gas Heaters,& Whirlpool Bath Tubs. Certified by many Pool & Spa Manufacturers.
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Hi:

My name is Garry. I'll be glad to assist you with your spa.

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Pool and Spa Expert: garrygoeson, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago

To be accurate in assisting with this, please give me the brand and year your spa was manufactured. After you replaced the pressure switch, did you test for voltage across the heating element?

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
I havent tested the heating element. It is a Leisure Bay G2. I bought it used, so not sure of the year
Customer reply replied 2 years ago
I can see the metal tube that is the heating element. I cant see where to test it though. Is it possible that it is on the bottom of that metal tube?
Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Add this to the mix. There are two pumps. One seems hot to the touch, the other seems cold.
Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Last bit of information that I found..... It seems to be leaking out of both sides of the metal tube that holds the heating element. One would deduce that the issue lies within that, yes?
Pool and Spa Expert: garrygoeson, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago

If the "tube" that houses the element has a box on top of it, remove the cover of the box and you should see two terminals from the heater element with wire connected to the circuit board. First, you want to see if the leak is at the unions (located at each end of the "tube"), and if so, you may be able to stop the leak by hand tightening them, or replacing the O-rings inside each union. Either way, you will need to stop the leak before proceeding with troubleshooting why it is not heating.

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Do I need to drain the tub in order to take the unions attached to the heater off? I also noticed that the leak only happens when i turn on the jets. I replaced the pressure switch with a universal one. Is it possible that I need to adjust the pressure switch?
Customer reply replied 2 years ago
I was able to get to the heating element and test it. I have the tub set up for 220V. It tested at 15 ohms. I then checked for a short by touching the terminal with one lead and the other to the sheath of the wire. That test showed no continuity, so I dare say the issue is my heating element. I am going to get a new one and replace the o rings at the same time. Does that sound like a logical plan?
Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Garry? Are you still with me?
Pool and Spa Expert: garrygoeson, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago

You will need to look to see if there are gate valves you can close, as this will allow you to disconnect the heater at the unions without draining the tub. You can test the pressure switch as follows:

Remove the wires from the switch. While the pump is running, connect the leads of your ohm meter to each terminal of the pressure switch. If you read continuity, you will not need to adjust the switch.

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Pool and Spa Expert: garrygoeson, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago

If you are reading 15 ohms at the element, this is usually an indication of a normal heater. I'm not real clear on how you are checking it for a short?

Please reply here when you can. I will be away all day on Tuesday, but I will reply back as soon as I'm able to. Thank you.

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
I used this: http://www.spadepot.com/spacyclopedia/spa-heater-element.htmI went to the section for Testing for shorts. My multimeter reads a 1, but if there is continuity, it reads 0. I tested as the article said and the multimeter remained at 1. I then tested my multimeter by touching the probes together and it immediately changed to 0, so I know the multimeter is ok.
Pool and Spa Expert: garrygoeson, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago

When you are running the spa and attempting to heat it, do you measure 220 volts with each meter probe touching the 2 heater terminals? If you are measuring this voltage, and it is still not heating, then the issue would be with the heating element.

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
I can't seem to find the exact gasket that was taken off of my heater assembly. I've been to 3 different stores and countless websites. They are about 3 inches and ridged on both sides. The closest I can find is flat on one side with a raised circle in the center of the other side. Have you had issues finding gaskets and had to use ones that were the same size, but not quite the exact shape? If I fill this flipping tub up again and it leaks from the heater assembly, all this is useless. I may as well have just gotten a new heater assembly altogether.....
Pool and Spa Expert: garrygoeson, Home Appliance Technician replied 2 years ago

The heater gaskets are more likely 2 inches. If the only ones you find is ridged on one side and flat on the other, as long as the ridged side fits securely in the groove on the threaded side opposite the heater unions, it will probably work ok.

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Category: Pool and Spa
Satisfied Customers: 469
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Experience: Over 27 years Repairing Pool & Spa Equipment,Gas Heaters,& Whirlpool Bath Tubs. Certified by many Pool & Spa Manufacturers.

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