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TheHotTubGuy, Hot Tub Repairman
Category: Pool and Spa
Satisfied Customers: 448
Experience:  20yrs. experience repairing all brands of hot tubs.
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I have a jacuzzi z110 that I just put a brand new pump on.

Customer Question

I have a jacuzzi z110 that I just put a brand new pump on. The pump managed to run til end of season last year and was working OK. I installed new pump. The low speed runs fine but when we use Hi speed, the pump shuts off at app 20 seconds of run time, inoperable, then turns back on and continues to do this. The pump was wired exactly like the one that came off. It's like a thermal shut down....
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Pool and Spa
Expert:  TheHotTubGuy replied 2 years ago.
My name is***** do my best to answer your question and resolve your issue.
Good morning, I closed your duplicate question. Please reply only to this thread. Thank you.
I am a little confused...did you put the new pump on last season and now the same pump is not working correctly now?
Can you send a pictures of the new pump? 1 of the white information label from the new motor and the other of the wiring to the motor. If you feel any other pics would be helpful, please include them, also. I would like to see the amp ratings/voltage, the schematic, and double check your wiring.
Standing by,
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
No, I installed new pump 2 days ago. Just was saying that all was working well last season other than pump was obviously going bad. So it should have been just " plugand play" now this is happening.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I can't add any pics at this time. It is a Jacuzzi Z110 model that was installed in 1998 and has run trouble free til last year. I'm in a bad rain storm right now and hottub is built into deck. Trying to get info off label but have to remove several PCs of deck surround to get to....
Expert:  TheHotTubGuy replied 2 years ago.
Well, we need to verify you are connecting the wiring correctly and that the pump is not too big or the incorrect voltage.
The new motor must be 115v. The red wire is for high speed. The black wire is for low speed. The white wire is neutral or common. And the green wire is of course ground.
If the motor is too large, it will overload the system. If you have low/hi speeds reversed, it will heat on high speed and not have enough voltage to operate.
Make sure you are plugging the pump into pump 1 connector and that it starts in low speed upon powering up the tub.
Pics would be helpful to verify this, but that is how it should be wired.
Standing by,
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
It is an exact replacement of the old pump, 1.5 HP, 115v 3450/1725rpm, 12.2/3.8a model number 2500-255. I have mechanical experience and the pump is wired exactly as the old one, and as I've said, I checked the cable back to the control box, checked voltage, checked gfci, and all are good
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Also, when you press panel button to turn on, low speed comes on first as it should , and runs trouble free. It's when you select Hi speed, it operates on hi speed for app 20 seconds then shuts down, sits, turns back on hi speed , runs app 20 seconds, shuts down ect ect ect. It has a hi speed, I just won't continue to run in hi speed longer than 20 seconds
Expert:  TheHotTubGuy replied 2 years ago.
When the pump cuts out, do you still have 120v between the red/white wires at the pump plug?
If you have proper voltage and the pump dies, you have a bad motor. The thermal overload in the motor will shut the motor off if there is too much load on the motor or if it becomes hot. It may just be bad?
When the thermal overload trips in the motor, usually it will shut down and once the motor has cooled will reset itself and start to run again.
Since the motor is starting on its own, the start capacitor is probably fine. If the impeller is too large for the pump motor, that will overload it.
Make sure your hi/low speeds are not reversed. Power off and on the tub, it should start running in low speed, NOT hi speed. Verify this.
If the pump shuts down and you still have good voltage to it, contact who you bought the pump from and try to get a replacement.
Different motors wire slightly different. If you had a Century motor previously and now say have an Emerson motor...the wiring will be different. Red is always hi and black is always low speed on your system..unless someone has switched the red/black wires on the circuit board.
You should get 120v at the black/white wires in low speed and 120v at the red/white wires in high speed.
Standing by,
Expert:  TheHotTubGuy replied 2 years ago.
I have seen on Balboa systems a bad topside control cause a repeated on/off cycling of the pump. Normally this occurs regardless of speeds.
Check the voltage to see if constant. If the system is turning the pump on/off that is the issue, not the motor. If the power remains constant, then the wiring or pump motor is the issue.
If the pump was bought as a complete unit, the impeller should be matched correctly.
That is about all I can say. Where the power dies...the problem lies.
You also, want to be sure that the board is not sending out hi AND low speed voltage at the same time. You should have voltage to black/white OR red/white..never both.
Standing by,
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Yes there is still voltage at pump when it shuts down. Should I try switching the red and black wires positions and see what happens??
Expert:  TheHotTubGuy replied 2 years ago.
Okay, but remove the heater connection first so it does not come on while in high speed!
Just swap the black/red wires on the board and restart the tub. It should now start in HIGH speed instead of low speed. See what happens.
If it continues to run for several minutes, press the jet button to cycle the pump into low speed (normally high speed) and see it runs without issue.
Update me on what you find. I will check back later this afternoon.
Standing by,
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
OK. Looked at wrong email trying to get you pump info. It is a Century pump part # ***** I've got side of spa open now while the bad weather stopped. That's all the info I can really get off pump label without removing the pump. So the wiring should remain the same unless you still want me to switch wires anyway
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Did not switch wires, left as is. Do not have voltage on all 3 legs at same time so I know topside controls are good. That was actually replaced last year, not because it broke, but just got degraded from age. I kept that switch anyway as a backup and plugged it back in now to eliminate the topside switch question. It still does the same thing.
Expert:  TheHotTubGuy replied 2 years ago.
Those pumps frequently had Emerson motors OEM. You may or may not have had a Century motor to start with.
There is a schematic on that label. It will the terminal locations to where the common, hi, and low speed connections will go.
You will have to verify:
the red wire is connected to hi speed terminal
the black wire is connected to the low speed terminal
the white wire is connected to the common terminal
Voltage to hi/low at the same time is not related to a topside issue. The topside issue I mentioned is a different problem from what you are experiencing. That malfunction will cause a rapid on/off cycling of the pump. I don't believe you have a bad topside at this point.
You have a bad hi speed relay on the board cutting out or a thermal overload shutdown going on. If the pump comes back on by itself just like it stopped by itself, that are the only possibilities. The thermal overload can be defective, or possibly something IS overloading the pump on hi speed only. Remove the filter/filters and try that...unlikely but? The other thermal overload possibility could be a couple wires on the wrong terminals in the new motor.
Double check the pump plug at the box. Are all the pins good and NO signs of charring or melting?
The wiring is always the same, but the motors may have different terminal locations than previously. Match the connections to the schematics on the motor label. If there are no serious flow restrictions, the pump does NOT loose voltage when shutting down, and the wiring is have a bum motor.
That is about all I can cover on this issue. If you have a multimeter with an amp clamp, measure the pump's amp draw while in hi speed until it cuts out. Does it draw excessive amps?
Standing by,
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
A little delay in your message sent, just got it now. OK, let me check out what you just sent me and I'll get back.....
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
The relay seems to be working, voltage stays at pump when it shuts down so I'm thinking overload on pump. That sucks, brand new out of box. Would thermal overload prove to be bad just on hi speed, or if it was faulty , shut down on either speed? Pump operates fine on low speed. I can see the contact working on relay when it shuts down so that tells me that it's the pump
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
At a loss just can't believe pump is bad. Going to get someone out here to check out this thing because I don't want to contact pump supplier til I can know for sure and don't want to buy more parts like a board and still be something else

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