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I think my spa is on economy mode and I cant figure out how

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to reset this back to...
I think my spa is on economy mode and I cant figure out how to reset this back to normal operation. Geckp Spa MSPA-1-P112-P212-B2-O1-CP2
Submitted: 5 years ago.Category: Pool and Spa
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4/5/2012
Pool and Spa Expert: TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair. replied 5 years ago
TheHotTubGuy
TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair.
Category: Pool and Spa
Satisfied Customers: 479
Experience: I have 20+yrs experience manufacturing, repairing, and field servicing most brands of hot tubs.
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TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair.
Category: Pool and Spa
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Experience: I have 20+yrs experience manufacturing, repairing, and field servicing most brands of hot tubs.
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Pool and Spa Expert: TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair. replied 5 years ago
I'm sorry about that I lost my wifi connection.
First thing try turning off the spa for 5 minutes then restart it. Standing by.
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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Turn off the spa or the breaker?
Pool and Spa Expert: TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair. replied 5 years ago
Turn off the breaker and all power to the hot tub for 5 minutes. Then restart the hot tub and let me know what happens. In the meantime could you explain to me exactly what you mean by economy mode. Are you getting any error codes are flashing dots?
Standing by
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Customer reply replied 5 years ago

The tub was working good and now I cant get the water to heat above 78 or 80 degrees for a week now. It has been 30 degrees at night here so I believe it would be alot colder if the heater wasnt working. The only code I get is CLFL and I assume that means clean filter but I dont know how to reset that either.

Customer reply replied 5 years ago
I turned the breaker off and back on after 5 min. I walked back out to the tub and FLO was flashing. I went and grabbed my meter and put it on the pressure switch and it read 30.5 ohms. I looked back at the display and the FLO code was gone and CLFL and 73 degreees alternatly flashes. I have touched no buttons yet.
Pool and Spa Expert: TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair. replied 5 years ago
Okay, just a moment. I had to get back to my office to get back online. Your controls do not have a economy setting, that is why I asked.

Can you describe your topside control or send a pic of it? I will see if I can ID from the info in your original post. I know it is a Mspa Gecko.
Standing by.
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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
graphic
Pool and Spa Expert: TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair. replied 5 years ago
What is the make/model/year of your hot tub?
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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Infiniti Atlantas I was told it was ten years old
Pool and Spa Expert: TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair. replied 5 years ago
Well I am confused, I did warranty work for Infinity Spas 10yrs ago and they used Balboa control systems. Did you get that info from the control box? I do need to see the topside to be on the same page as you are.
Pics must be uploaded from your computer, in JPEG, GIF, or PNG format. It will not work from a smartphone. Can you please try again.
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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
I got that part number off the spa control box. Let me see if I can reformat that picture of the topside control
Customer reply replied 5 years ago
spa controlThis picture says it is in JPEG format
Pool and Spa Expert: TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair. replied 5 years ago
Does your hot tub use a dedicated circulation pump in addition to full size jet pumps? Or, does it use a 2speed pump for filtering and heating?

Is the heat icon/indicator light lit up on the control pad? Did the flow go away?
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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Yes it has a dedicated small circulation pump in addition to the two full size jet pumps.Their are two squigly lines on the control that I assume mean heat and there is an arrow lit up underneath so I assume it says it is heating. The FLO is not there anymore it is just flashing alternatly 71 degrees and CLFL. I put the meter across the pressure switch again and it reads 30 ohms.
Pool and Spa Expert: TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair. replied 5 years ago
I wish I could see which control pad you are using, can you try one more time to send the picture? I know that the picture must be in a file on the computer, using the paper clip icon, click browse, that will bring up another box, hit browse again and find your pic, click okay. It should work for you. I am sorry, Its way more difficult than it should be.

Since you have a meter out, how about some testing? If the heat icon is lit on the display and the circ. pump is flowing good, and the FLO is not on the display:

Test AC voltage at the heater output. One lead on each output testing across them, what do you get? Now test from each one to neutral separately, what do you have?
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Customer reply replied 5 years ago

One lead on each output across them = 240 volts

Each one to nuetral separately = 120 volts

Let me work on this picture again. I emailed it from my phone to my computer then saved it as a photo in my computer, not sure why you cant open it.

Customer reply replied 5 years ago
graphic
Pool and Spa Expert: TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair. replied 5 years ago
Okay, thank you. The quality will not allow my to enlarge it and read the buttons. There are many different configurations with MSPA systems. Some are proprietary, for instance I have never seen mention or can find any Gecko message CLFL.

So, you have 240v across the heater connections....that's great, it means the board is probably good. Very expensive part!

If your meter has an amp clamp on it, clamp it around line1 or line2 and check amp draw with just heater and circ. on. If you do not have that type of meter, jump the pressure switch and unplug the circ pump from the control box. The heater should start to sizzle and get very hot. If it does, just quickly plug the circ. pump back in.

Standing by.
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Pool and Spa Expert: TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair. replied 5 years ago
I do notice Infiniti is spelled differently from Infinity. Two different manufacturers, that explains my confusion on the equipment.
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Customer reply replied 5 years ago

I dont have a clamp meter but I switched the setting over to amperage and it says its drawing between 13.5 -13.9 amps across the two legs. I also put a jumper in the pressure switch and disconnected the circulating pump. It did not get very hot but was warm to the touch after one minute without water running through the heater.

Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Yes it is an INFINITI
Pool and Spa Expert: TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair. replied 5 years ago
You cannot test amperage that way. You have to have a meter with a clamp to test that.

So, if you have 240v across the heater connections, and you jumped the pressure switch and unplugged the circ. pump and the heater did not boil, you have a bad heater element. Now to double check, after jumping the pressure switch and unplugging the circ. pump: check for the 240v across the heater connections. If you have 240v, no circ. running, and heater does not boil and shut down, the heater element is bad.
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Customer reply replied 5 years ago

I jumped out the pressure switch and unplugged the circulating pump and let the heater heat for about 3 minutes. There was 240 volts across the two legs but the heater never really got more than warm to the touch.

 

I thought I read somewhere else that the heat element is like a light bulb it either works or it dont?

 

Assuming this is the heat element are these common parts? Can I most likely find one tomorrow at one of the local spa places or is this something particular to this unit and something I would have to get ordered?

 

Roughly how much is a heat element?

Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Where is my best resource to find an owners manual for this spa?
Pool and Spa Expert: TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair. replied 5 years ago
There is no owners manual for Infiniti; I have been searching. The element is a pretty standard flow through model. You should be able to find one locally, they come in 4kw and 5.5kw versions. I would expect retail on a basic flow through element to be about $50-$80 and expect 1hr labor if you have a service call.
I will send you a link to instructions on replacing the element as soon as I find a pdf that isn't secured.
If you have any other questions, just login and reply. Our session will continue for as long as you need it to.
Good luck and have a nice day!
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Customer reply replied 5 years ago

Ok thank you I will take the element out tomorrow and try and find one around town. If I have an option do I want the 4kw or the 5.5kw version?

Pool and Spa Expert: TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair. replied 5 years ago
I would guess 5.5kw, however, if your spa still heats with both pumps on hi speed and/or the blower running you should use the 4kw.

When you remove the old element, it will say on it somewhere what size it is: 4kw, 4.5kw, 5.5kw, or 6kw. A 4kw or 5.5kw is what you need. The control box cover may have that info on it. Just put in what you take out.

I am still going to try to send some instructions on removing and replacing the heater element.
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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Ok thank you this is my first time using Just Answer and I am pretty pleased. Hopefully tomorrow I can get an element around town and I will look for you the next time I need a repair.
Pool and Spa Expert: TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair. replied 5 years ago
Here are the instructions from the Gecko MSPA Service Manual:


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Pool and Spa Expert: TheHotTubGuy, Hot tub service and repair. replied 5 years ago
Get 2 new gaskets for the heater unions when you buy the element.

Okay, once you have the metal heater manifold out of the control box, do not remove or mess with the pressure switch.

Use a 3/4" wrench or socket and remove the 2 nuts holding the element in. Wipe down the tube inside and out and make sure the element came out with the orings on it. Double check that no oring is stuck to the inside of the tube under the holes.

Remove the 4 nuts off the new element (make sure the orings are in place) and carefully slide it into the tube and line up the terminals in the holes. Do not bend the terminals when installing it in the tube, it can crack the insulation around them and cause GFCI tripping in the near future. Use needle nose pliers to pull it up through and start the 3/4" nut on the one your not holding onto. Now, put the other nut on and snug them up. Look down inside the tube and tweak the element if needed so it is not touching the sides of the tube, it will vibrate if it is.

Reinstall the heater assembly and use new gaskets at the heater/plumbing connections.

Easy peasy!
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