Ok, do not paint the surfaces. What I recommend you do is clean the rotor with a wire brush, wire wheel or anything to get it to clean metal. Have the dealer machine the rotors with an on car lathe and mark their position. This will make sure there is no run out. Then the torque specs are first step, finger tight, second step, 50 ft/lbs, and finally 100ft/lbs, torqued with a torque wrench, not an impact and torque stick. All of the steps use the pattern below. Make sure they measure the run out and thickness afterwards.
Here are some of the important notes on the document.
Notice: A torque wrench must be used to ensure that wheel nuts are tightened to specification. Never use lubricants or penetrating fluids on wheel stud, nuts, or mounting surfaces, as this can raise the actual torque on the nut without a corresponding torque reading on the torque wrench. Wheel nuts, studs, and mounting surfaces must be clean and dry. Failure to follow these instructions could result in wheel, nut, and/or stud damage.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Important: Tighten the nuts evenly and alternately in the sequence shown, in order to avoid excessive runout.