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Phil, Mechanical Engineer.
Category: Plumbing
Satisfied Customers: 8532
Experience:  Retired mech. contractor, shop owner, 51 yrs experience.
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help, I live in a single wide mobile home, and have a 150 foot

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help, I live in a single wide mobile home, and have a 150 foot well, with a 1 1/2 hp submersible pump, I have never run out of water, in the last 15 years, but have had to replace the pump, the drop pipe, pressure control switch, the wiring down the well, control box, torque arresstors, the hot water heater, have had to pull the pump out of the well, to add arresstors, from the torque of the pump wire rubbing against the wall of the well and shorting itself out. After all of this, I am now having a problem with the low pressure in the kitchen sink. Now, the well is located on the south end of the mobile home, and then the living room and kitchen, and on the north end is the bathroom, which has not only the shower and toilet, but also a washer and dryer, that has awesome pressure. In the kitchen, I have replaced the faucet, and the incoming hoses for both the hot and cold water, under the sink. reconnected everything, and dammit, still no water pressure. aaaaaaaahhhhhh, I have a bad hip, and want to stand at that damned sink as little a time as possible, so can you please tell me, what the hell I can do now?
Welcome to Just Answer!

All we need to do is find the restriction. let me ask you a few questions first.

Are both the hot and cold functions at the sink with the new faucet running low pressure... or is it just the hot or the cold that runs slow.

Did you have this problem only after you fit the new faucet?

Let me know, we can go from there.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

it is both hot and cold with low pressure, and i had changed the faucet because of it, and still have low pressure

Hello again,

It is possible that you have galvanized steel pipe nipples where the service valves under the slink are, if so, those will tend to rust so badly they fill with up with rust...

I have seen those that looked totally blocked, but still passed a decent water flow.

IF...mud gets into the water line during repairs to the pump, the mud ends up clogging the pores in the 'rust plug'...and crating the problem you have.

See if you spot any such galvanized pipe nipples in the water lines that go to the faucet.

We can go from there.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

under the sink, the lines that I connect to the faucet are like a flexible plastic, and they connect to where the water comes in, to pvc lemme see if i can send you a pic of what it is

Hello again,

it does not sound like you have any galvanized pipe


The problems are mostly leaks and broken pipe due to deterioration. However due to the high velocity water at the Tee's where the hot and cold to the kitchen tie in to the main hot and cold running to bathroom end of the home there could be some sort of problem at those tee's.

It is quite unusual to have *both the hot and cold with low pressure..since they are separate pipe loops and we know the pressure is good elsewhere.

The problem has to be between the main hot and cold water headers, and the kitchen faucet.

Accessing those tees however will most likely be difficult, they would be covered by the insulation and heavy vapor barrier under the home.

We need to investigate further...there are thousands of google and you tube articles and video's on the topic. It could be some of the plastic fittings deteriorate in a way that restricts flow, or the wrong fittings were used for the Tee's? Something very unusual is going on.


I think in order to fix this we may have to access those tees and see what is there.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

oh, I can get to those tees, cause I was pissed, I took a claw of a hammer, and yanked part of the floor up, it's a trailer, and an old one at that, I can see where it has had leaks, and when I moved in I had fixed all of that, so, I figure, I can replace that part of the floor, right? I have a bad leg, and I cannot stand for a long period of time, when, I have low pressure, it takes me FOREVER to do anything at the sink,

Hello again, finding the exact area to tear up is the problem. I would be inclined to tear up the insulation barrier under the mobile home instead can see where the pipes come from the sink easier under there and just follow them to the tees.

If you have the floor torn up already, let me know what you find. We can go from there.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

can you see my pic? don't kno if that is the tees your talking about, but I sure hope so

Hello again, I can see the picture, one of those tees leaks as you can see... the tees are correct and should not cause any restrictions you are seeing.

How sure are you that the two pipes going up are going to the sink?

Next step will be doing an acid flush, for 6 hours using 4 gallons of white vinegar and a plastic pump, and some clear plastic tube that fits the pump... I will detail how thats set up later.

Next step will be fixing that leak, a product called 'plumbers goop' might be worth a try... tearing out the existing pipe will not be easy..

Fit a removable floor panel until we are sure the plumbing problems are fixed.


Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Hello again, the pipe shown in the top photo coming off of the manual shut off valve where the flex hoses attached is copper... the two pipes coming into the tees you exposed are half inch plastic.... the problem could be where the copper attach's to the plastic.

In cases like this it is often easier to cap off the visible supply lines, and run new lines from the known hot and cold water sources...that would be my approach in this case.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

i'm not following, could you explain a lil more?

Hello again,

Briefly, it will be way to much trouble in my few to tear up enough flooring to find where the existing 3/8" or 1/2" copper tube shown in the first picture comes from and repair it... than to just bypass it entirely and run new pipe... I would use 1/2" Pex tube for that.

If you do that you have to close the existing manual shut off valves below the sink,, then run new PEX tube (flexible plastic tube) to the sink fit new shut off valves, connect the flex hoses already in place... its about a 4 hour plumbing job. you can run the new tubing under the house easily. ..insulate it with 1/2" foam pipe insulation.


Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I love this site, and people like you, that are willing and patient to help like this, I don't get out much, lol, have enormous anxiety, and live very rurally, so, this site has been so much help. Thank you very much for all the info, you have been an immense help.

Thats good to know, thanks!
I will leave the question open after you rate me so you and i can have a short chat once in awhile on the same dime so to speak


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