What temperatures do you maintain right under the basking light and in the coolest part of the cage?
What brand and strength of UVB bulb do you have?
Dies the UVB light rest on top of a screen top?
If you’re like most people, I suspect you got your information on care from a pet store. Most people do. While we should be able to rely on such information, unfortunately, it is often wrong. They sell people the wrong lighting, advise the wrong foods, and often don't know the correct temperatures for the various reptiles. Soon , the animal becomes ill. Even though you have been trying so hard to keep Chamie healthy, when you didn't have correct information to begin with, things are going wrong.
Because she hasn’t been eating, she is probably dehydrated, somI’ll start with a first aid measure. Buy some Pedialyte (yes, the kind for human infants). Prepare a shallow bath consisting of 1/2 water and 1/2 Pedialyte. Add a big scoop of calcium powder and mix it in. Soak your chameleon for about 20 to 30 minutes twice a day. Reptiles can absorb some electrolytes and fluids through their skin and vents (where droppings pass out), so make the water deep enough to cover the vent. Be sure to supervise closely. If she’s too weak to hold up her head, do that for her.
Chameleons are one of the most delicate of reptiles, and are more difficult to keep in captivity than most species. Once they get sick, they almost never recover without veterinary care. For that reason, I suggest you make an appointment tomorrow . This site has a directory of reptile vets:
There are some other things you can do to support her. Most people have been given incorrect information on temperature. A chilly chameleon will not eat. Chameleons are adaptable to temperature extremes in their wild habitat, but there they can move around to find warmer or cooler spots. In a cage they have no choice. After months of being too cold, illness often develops. The coldest part of the cage should be 82.5*F. There should be a warm basking area that is kept at 89*F to 105*F. That sounds hot to us, but to a chameleon, it is just right. at night the temperature can be allowed to drop to 72*F to 79*F. Use a good digital probe thermometer to measure the temperature. You can adjust the temperature by raising or lowering the fixture or by changing the bulb to one with higher or lower wattage. If you have to lower the fixture, don't put it so low that your chameleon can touch it and be burned. I suggest that you read the information on this site for more advice on care:
One of the most common problems we see in chameleons is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). It is caused by insufficient calcium and/or UVB light. If you bought a kit from a pet store, you probably got a UVB light with a 5% output. If you didn’t buy a kit, you may not have a UVB light at all. UV, UVA, full spectrum, Dayglo, etc. are not the same thing. While it’s recommended for chameleons to receive 5% output, most of the time the light rests on top of a screen cover. Those covers filter out half of the UVB light. Chameleons with a 5% output light quickly develop MBD. Symptoms include trouble climbing, spending a lot of time on the floor, and the tongue sticking out. To give them the 5% they need, there has to be light with 10% output. I recommend the Reptisun 10.0. It needs to be on 12 to 14 hours per day.
For today, I recommend beginning Pedialyte soaks, checking and adjusting the temperatures, and making sure you have a UVB light with a 10% output. Tomorrow, try to make an appointment with a reptile vet as soon as possible. I hope Chamie will reach a full recovery.
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