I have bearded dragon unfortunately we don't have reptile spetilist from where I come form. She is so hyperactive. It

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Customer: Hi, I have bearded dragon unfortunately we don't have reptile spetilist from where I come form. She is so hyperactive. It hits the glass of the terrarum all the time during the day it's like this for a month. It stops for some time like on a hour of two and goes below heat for some some hour or two and continues again. Usually it poops all over it. I cannot understand if it os normal behaviour or something is happening
JA: Hi there. I'll do all I can to help. Have you tried anything so far that helps the Bearded Dragon with her hyperactivity?
Customer: I let her out of the terrarum and it runs through room but still when put it back is behaving same
JA: What's the Bearded Dragon's name and age?
Customer: Its almost a year
JA: Is there anything else the Vet should know before I connect you? Rest assured that they'll be able to help you.
Customer: I think that's all
Answered by Dr. Caryn – Vet in 2 hours 8 months ago
Dr. Caryn – Vet
Pet Specialist

2,242 satisfied customers

Specialities include: Reptile Veterinary, Herp Veterinary, Exotic Animal Medicine, Amphibian Veterinary

I am sincerely ***** ***** there was a delay in someone responding to your question. (Experts are independent contractors and as such are online based on their own schedules.) However, I am available and can assist you if you still need veterinary advice.

Hello and thanks for posting your question on JustAnswer.com. My name is***** and I have been a licensed and accredited veterinarian in the US for over 21 years, specializing in aquatics, reptiles, amphibians, avian and other exotic species. You may already be aware, but on this platform veterinarians can provide insight and advice, but as this is not considered a legal client-patient relationship, we are unable to prescribe medications, provide medical records or sign documents for your specific pet. For that you would need to make an in person visit with a local veterinarian. I am happy to chat with you via the JustAnswer app via text. For US based clients, if you are interested in a phone call instead that is an option you can choose for an additional charge. In the meantime, I am putting together some questions and/or suggestions to help with your pet’s concern.

Thanks again for posting your question, I’m sorry that your bearded dragon seems to act very frantically. I have some questions that will help me get a better idea of your pet’s environment and what may be going on with them:

-When did you first notice this current problem?

-What is the current tank set-up, e.g.,

Temperature gradient (cool side, warm, and hottest basking temp) and humidity?

-Do they receive any access to UV light? When was the UVB bulb last changed out?

-Have they been eating normally?

-What do you normally feed them? Do they receive any calcium or vitamin supplements?

-Have they been pooping regularly and has it looked normal?

Thanks very much for providing additional information, it is very helpful for me to try and figure out what is going on with your bearded dragon and the history information will help me to do that.

With any bearded dragon that is acting oddly, it is always a good idea to start by checking that their environment and husbandry are proper for their species. Taking a physical measurement of the temperature gradient within the enclosure and measuring humidity with a hygrometer are a good idea. Making sure the UVB bulb is appropriate for the size of the space and has been changed regularly. Even if they are still producing visible light, UVB bulbs have a limited lifespan and need to be changed every 6-12 months, depending upon bulb type. Making sure diet is varied and the insects have been gut loaded with a nutritious gut-loading diet as well as dusted regularly with calcium and multivitamin powder. Therefore, I am attaching a bearded dragon care (husbandry) reference sheet that I put together. Please review it at your convenience and let me know if you have any questions.

For example, if the environmental temperatures are too low, since bearded dragons are cold-blooded, this will negatively affect their metabolism, appetite, digestion and immune function. So start by checking the temperature gradient in the enclosure and, if it's too low, adjust your basking light or get a stronger watt bulb so you are achieving the proper environmental temperatures.

In the meantime, I will give you some information about what may be causing these signs, a care sheet with recommendations about environment and diet as some common medical conditions are unintentionally caused by improper husbandry (such as too low temperatures, humidity, UVB lighting or calcium and vitamin supplementation) and some suggestions for home care and support of your ill bearded dragon or while you are awaiting a visit to the veterinarian.

I am sorry to hear that your bearded dragon seems stressed and has been glass surfing and acting frantically. That is not typical behavior for bearded dragons though sometimes it takes some time for them to adjust to a new home.

Has there been any changes in or near his enclosure recently? Bearded dragons are quite susceptible to emotional or physiological stress. Changes in environment such a new tank or changes in décor, or changes in lighting, temperature or diet might trigger changes in behavior or appetite. Dragons kept with other dragons may be bullied by a more dominant individual leading to stress or physical intimidation. Close observation of interaction between dragons is important and this may require separate feeding bowls, tank partitions or even separate housing. Improper lighting (too little visible light or UVB light) or temperature can negatively impact appetite since dragons are visual eaters.

I would look first to the lighting as positioning of lighting can cause reflections inside the enclosure which may lead to glass surfing and frantic activity. Also make sure the temperature and humidity are appropriate as suboptimal temperature (and sometimes even substrate) can lead to this behavior.

If you've recently changed or added decor, remove the item or return it to how it was and see if that helps the behavior. Reposition the lighting to reduce interior reflectivity. In some situations, a bearded dragon has outgrown the size of his enclosure (e.g., if the tank is smaller than 50 gallons and he's an adult, he may need a bigger enclosure) and getting a larger tank helps with this behavior. If your bearded dragon is acclimated to handling, spend a little more time with him outside the enclosure.

Another possible cause if she is doing this frantic running around prior to pooping is that she might be constipated and she is frantic because pooping is uncomfortable.

There are a number of reasons why a bearded dragon may fail to defecate or become constipated and act frantic or uncomfortable prior to pooping. Some underlying factors that may contribute to constipation are poor diet (poor quality or not enough leafy greens) or insufficient dietary calcium, inappropriate temperature (too cool), lack of access to or insufficient intake of water, trauma or stress from changes in the environment such a recent move, unusual activity in/near the cage, or the presence of new tank-mates.

However, there are a number of conditions that may cause similar signs which include, but are not limited to, parasite infection (e.g., coccidia, protozoa or amoeba), dehydration, impaction or foreign material in the GI tract, metabolic bone disease, infection/abscess or cancer.

It's a good idea to start by looking at husbandry practices (e.g., temperature, diet, calcium supplementation, etc.) to make sure they are appropriate. Re-examine your tank to rule out our environmental causes, e.g., using a good quality thermometer and a hygrometer to look at temperature and humidity over time, so tank conditions can be accurately measured and monitored.

I strongly recommend you review the bearded dragon care sheet I shared with you for information about proper environment and diet.

If dehydration is playing a role with constipation, you can help with hydration by soaking them in shoulder depth, warm (85-90F (30-32C)) water for 15-30 minutes once or twice day. You can encourage defecation by gently massing the belly from front to back every 5 to 10 minutes during the bath.

If they are eating, top dressing their salad with 1/8 teaspoon of methylcellulose fiber (“Citrucel”) for a few days may help loosen stool so it will pass. If you cannot find methylcellulose fiber, then you can use another plant based fiber supplement such as psyllium husk (Metamucil) or ispaghula husk (Fybogel). But a better long term solution is feeding more high fiber foods, such as dark green leafy vegetables. I would also avoid feeding too many mealworms as these have a rather indigestible exoskeleton that can lead to constipation.

If your bearded dragon is showing any other clinical signs, such as decreased appetite, weight loss, lethargy, etc. or if they continue to be constipated, then scheduling a physical examination with a local, reptile experienced veterinarian to try and find the cause for the abnormal elimination is a good idea. They will likely do a physical examination and may also do a fecal analysis to look for parasites and might do some imaging (x-ray or ultrasound). They can also give your bearded dragon fluids and medications to help the underlying cause and to treat any secondary symptoms they may have.

To find a local veterinarian with reptile experience, here is a useful website you can use to search for a local reptile veterinarian:


(please note this site may not work on older browsers like Safari)

These veterinarians are active members of the Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians, which means they have interest and experience in treating reptile patients.

Please note that since you are outside the US, you will need to choose Advanced Search.

Advanced Search: Step 1 of 2, Member status

Select/toggle honorary member, life member, new grad, active veterinarian, and associate.

Press Continue.

Advanced Search: Step 2 of 2

Use the drop down menu in Country to select your country. Press Search.

I should be notified if/when you respond with additional information or questions but in the meantime, I hope this information is helpful and I wish you the best with your bearded dragon. Thanks again for posting your question to JustAnswer.com. Sincerely, ***** *****

Hi here is the information towards the questions
When did you first notice this current problem?
About month ago
-What is the current tank set-up, e.g.,
Temperature gradient (cool side, warm, and hottest basking temp) and humidity?
Average 30-35° Celsius
-Do they receive any access to UV light? When was the UVB bulb last changed out?
Yes, its like 6minths old
-Have they been eating normally?
Its eating normally but refuses leafs so it is more fed by insects dubia and warms
-What do you normally feed them? Do they receive any calcium or vitamin supplements?
Yes it receives calcium d3 and multivitamin
-Have they been pooping regularly and has it looked normal?
No, it does not poop normally as before. The poop does not have consistent structure like before it is like parts. And cuz it is hyperactive it is all over the tank.I can share images from tank, and when pooped.Thanks a lot for above answers, but is kind of general and overall I follow the suggestions. Can we maybe go one by one and eleminate possible issues because I honestly lost in the textLet me know what info should I provide more.
Current tank size 80x45x60*

Hello and thanks for the additional information abut your set up and husbandry.

So your temperatures 30-35C are partially good. I would recommend increasing the basking temperature up to 105F, especially for an animal that might be ill or having digestion issue.

They do need a cooler side (25-27C), warm/main area (30-32C) and a hottest basking spot (35-41C)

Depending upon your type of UVB bulb it may be in need of replacement. Most fluorescent UVB bulbs need to be replaced every 6 months, even if still producing visible light, the UVB radiation decreases over time.

So at one year old your bearded dragon should truly be omnivorous, eating about 70% of it's diet in plant material, mostly dark, leafy greens like dandelion greens, watercress, escarole, endive, chicory or even alfalfa. Though I don't recommend changing up diet while an animal is ill you will need to address the diet as lack of fiber and nutrients could be leading to the signs you are seeing, constipation and unusual poops.

I am glad you are feeding different types of insects. If your animal might be constipated, I would avoid feeding meal worms, they have a rather indigestible exoskeleton that can sometimes lead to constipation or even GI impaction. Otherwise fine to feed them but in moderation and in rotation with other insects.

So I do recommend doing some warm water bathes to encourage hydration and help with defecation.

To prevent or treat dehydration, you can give your bearded dragon a soak in a shallow dish of warm water 85-90F (29.5-32.2C for 15-30 minutes once or twice a day. Monitor them during the bath to make sure their head does not submerge. Dry them off after the bath so they don't cool off too much.

If they may be having GI issues such as impaction or constipation, you can do gently tummy massage from front to back every 5-10 minutes during the bath. Gently run one or two fingers along their belly from front to back a few times.

You can also add some fiber supplements to their diet for a few days to see if that helps with the defecation, though the longer term solution is getting them to eat more vegetables.

If they are eating, top dressing their salad with 1/8 teaspoon of methylcellulose fiber (“Citrucel”) for a few days may help loosen stool so it will pass. If they aren't reliably eating salad then use the fiber supplement to dust their insects just before feeding. If you cannot find methylcellulose fiber, then you can use another plant based fiber supplement such as psyllium husk (Metamucil) or ispaghula husk (Fybogel). But a better long term solution is feeding more high fiber foods, such as dark green leafy vegetables.

Diet: Adults should be fed a balanced diet of 70% vegetables and 30% insects. Greens should be introduced to bearded dragons at a young age.

Nutritional insects include black soldier fly larvae (soldier worm larvae), superworms, earthworms, Dubia and cockroaches and the occasional wax worm, mealworm or silkworms (limit them due to their high fat content).

Vegetables should be a variety of primarily dark leafy greens (dandelion greens, watercress, escarole, endive, chicory, cactus pads, spring mix (no spinach), etc.).

A small amount of other vegetables (carrots, beans, peas, squash, green beans, bell peppers, etc.) and be added; variety is the key! Salad should be chopped and offered in a clean bowl or plate once to twice a day. They can be given flowers and fruit as treats or as top dressing on the salad, with fruit not making up more than 10-20% of plant material fed each day.

Some greens have high amounts of goiterogens which can impact thyroid function so while they can be fed and are nutritious, feed them in moderation and in rotation with other vegetables. Examples include, bok choy, broccoli, cabbage, kale, mustard/collard/turnip greens, arugula, cauliflower, and brussel sprouts.

Lettuce, such as romaine, iceberg, green/red leaf, Boston, etc. are not very nutrient rich so should be avoided or fed in very limited quantities.

Also avoid feeding oxalate rich greens like swiss chard, spinach as well as beet or carrot greens as these can interfere with calcium absorption.

But if the constipation or pooping issues continue you do really need to seek out a veterinarian to perform an examination as there may be an underlying health problem.

If/when your bearded dragon is feeling better you can address the diet a bit more directly.


Just like people, bearded dragons can become picky eaters and develop a preference for some types of foods, such as insects. But there are things you can do to encourage your bearded dragon to eat their veggies! Adults should be eating at least 70% of their diet in vegetables (juveniles 30%). Eating too many insects, especially high fat worms, can lead to medical disorders, such as fatty liver disease, so feeding them an omnivorous diet is important.

Start by decreasing the frequency of feeding insects. Instead of feeding insects every day, feed them every other day. On non-insect feed days, feed them a salad mix of chopped vegetables. On insect-feed days, feed them their salad in the morning and wait to feed insects until the afternoon. These tips will encourage them to eat their vegetables as they will be hungry when the salad is presented. And when you do feed insects put them into the salad dish. This teaches the bearded dragon that veggies are food, too.

Some other tips:

If you are still having difficulty, some people have had success top-dressing the chopped salad with a tiny sprinkling of bee pollen or reptile salad dressing (Nature Zone Bearded Dragon Salad Dressing). Use sparingly and decrease over time so they learn to eat the salad without a top dressing.

You can also try hand feeding pieces of vegetables to your bearded dragon as a "treat". Some beardies will take food if hand offered. If you are uncomfortable hand feeding or your bearded dragon is a “biter”, then you can offer salad from a tweezers or tongs.

The last option is "tough love". For an adult bearded dragon in good body condition (not a rapidly growing baby or juvenile or an underweight or sick bearded dragon), you can offer salad without insects for a longer period, until they eat some salad. It's not indefinite, just 2-3 days at a time, but once they get a taste for salad, hopefully that would continue.

Hopefully these suggestions will help you to get your bearded dragon eating their vegetables!

However, I wouldn’t employ the “tough love” option for a bearded dragon that is under the weather as they need to eat.

Thanks for the suggestions I will try to apply them for beginning

My sincere best to you both. Sincerely, ***** *****

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Dr. Caryn – Vet
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Dr. Caryn – Vet
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