My bearded dragon is a female and I believe she needs to lay…

Hi! I'm Dr. Michelle and would like to help you with Lucy.

I have 10 years of experience in small animals and pocket pets

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I am sorry to hear that Lucy seems to be uncomfortable with trying to lay eggs and having some of the discoloration of the scales.  The discoloration of the scales can be from stress or we can sometimes see that it is because of secondary infection (bacterial or fungal).  Since she seems to be in pain and is having the discoloration, I would recommend trying to get her in sooner rather than later as Beardies can deteriorate quickly (they like to hide disease) and there may be underlying problems with metabolic bone disease.

While getting finances in order, I would recommend checking her husbandry to make sure it is appropriate:

Feeding
Adult bearded dragons are omnivorous while hatchlings and juveniles are more insectivorous.  Hatchling up to two months old should be fed two to three times a day a mixture of insects and healthy greens.  Several feedings is especially advantageous when there are several dragons housed together.  Proper growth is achieved through several small meals with smaller prey items versus one large meal with a large prey item.  Adults, however, can be fed a salad of greens such as romaine lettuce, escarole, Swiss chard, mustard greens, and turnip greens with a small amount of other vegetables and fruits such as carrots, peas, strawberries, blueberries, melon, and squash once a day.  Edible flowers such as squash blossoms are also okay to offer and generally relished.  Insects such as crickets, meal worms, and feeder roaches (such as dubias) are excellent protein sources and should be offered every other day to every three days depending on your lizards’ body condition (thin, normal, or obese) and your vet’s recommendation.
Gut loading feeder insects with healthy calcium ***** *****s such as kale and Swiss chard is required for a positive calcium to phosphorous ratio (this prevents and corrects metabolic bone disease).  Feeder insects must be dusted with a calcium supplement (one without phosphorous) 3-4 times a week and a multi-vitamin once a week.  Some owners feed small pinkie mice to their larger adults.  It is recommended to limit the pinkie feedings to an occasional treat or once every two week feeding due to the higher fat content.  The most important rule to remember when it comes to insect and rodent prey is that the feeder can not be longer than the distance between the dragon’s eyes!  This helps prevent dangerous impaction and digestion issues including choking.

Enclosure
Hatchlings grow fast but can be maintained well in a 10 gallon aquarium at a young age while growing into adults that can be housed in aquariums as large as 75 or 120 gallons!  The smallest cage for a singly housed adult is a 30 gallon breeder although larger is preferred.  Multiple lizards housed together require more room to allow for escape from each other.  Custom enclosures for adults made of wood or melamine should be 72” long, 16 inches wide and 17 inches high according to some sources.  Ventilation is important regardless of the size of the enclosure. It is recommended that aquariums have 3 sides covered to prevent escape attempts and allow for a feeling of security.
During the warmer months, beardies can be housed outside in an outdoor set-up created with wood and wire mesh.  There are several blue print plans available on the internet for these enclosures.  Please, do not take the aquarium outside!  This can cause lethal hyperthermia especially in direct sun light.  Frequent supervision is required ensure the health of your beardie.  These enclosures must be protected from large amounts of rainfall and predators.  The optimal positioning allows for some shade to be available as well.
Substrate
It is never recommended to keep bearded dragons on a sand substrate even the calcium sand sold in pet stores.  Life threatening impactions are frequently caused by accidental ingestion of particulate bedding including sand, coconut fiber substrate, and crushed walnut bedding.  A better substrate that is easier to clean is indoor/outdoor carpet, potting soil (requires weekly changing), and butcher paper.  The substrate should be spot cleaned daily and changed as needed or after 7 days, whichever comes first.
Temperature and Humidity
The temperature for bearded dragons during the day should be around 80-85 degrees Fahrenheit  and drops to 75 degrees Fahrenheit at night.  The basking site should be around 88-95 F.  Two thermometers should be used in the cage.  One placed at the level of the basking site and the other on the cool end of the tank an inch above the substrate.  It is highly recommended to regulate the temperature using a thermostat.  The primary heat source should be an over head basking light or ceramic heat emitter.  Secondary heat if needed ideally comes from under tank heaters under half the tank.  Do not use electrical heating rocks due to the extremely likely chance the bearded dragon will develop thermal burns.
The humidity in the cage should be maintained between 40 and 60%.  This can be achieved by placing a water dish in the enclosure, preferably one the lizard can soak in, and daily misting.  A hygrometer is highly recommended.
UVB
UVB lights are necessary for the proper growth and maintenance of bearded dragons.  The ultraviolet B radiation stimulates the synthesis of calcium.  The best source of UVB is the sun but only when the animal is outside and directly in the sun light.  Never place the cage by a window.  The UVB light is filtered out through glass and the chance of over heating the enclosure is extremely high.  The recommended bulb for a hatchling and sub-adult is a Repti Sun 10.0 and a Repti Sun 5.0 for adults.  The bulb must be changed yearly as the strength of the UVB will deteriorate with time despite the bulb giving off visible light.  Placement of the bulb should be overhead and no more than 10 inches away from the basking site.  The light cycle for bearded dragons should be 12 hours of light with 12 hours of darkness.  Mercury vapor bulbs work well, too.
Cage Accessories
​Dried wood branches are appreciated by most bearded dragons as the species is a modest climber.  A large rock under the basking light makes a wonderful basking site.  Live plants such as aloe and palms can be added to the enclosure.  Artificial plants are easily disinfected and make appropriate accessories.  Most beardies will utilize a half log hiding area.  Custom and creative hides can be made as well.

Please let me know if you have any further questions.