Oh I was browsing. I think my Cham is dehydrated. I took him to the vet once before and I paid 75$ for him to shoot some

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Customer: Oh hi. I was browsing. I think my Cham is dehydrated. I took him to the vet once before and I paid 75$ for him to shoot some water down his throat... so tonight I used a little infant syringe and gave him some water and misted him for about 10 mins. He drank it up. He has lost his appetite though...
JA: I'm sorry to hear that. Problems with drinking can be serious. I'm glad you noticed it. The Veterinarian will know what to do. What is the reptile's name and age?
Customer: Juicy fruit. He's about a year and a 1/2
JA: What is the reptile's name?
Customer: Juicy fruit
JA: Is there anything else important you think the Veterinarian should know about the reptile?
Customer: Well, I put calcium in the water and gave it to him. I want to make sure he gets some since he's not eating..
Answered by Anna in 7 hours 5 years ago
30+ years of experience

17,040 satisfied customers

Specialities include: Reptile Veterinary, Herp Veterinary, Exotic Animal Medicine, Amphibian Veterinary

He seems wobbly. I'm sure it's because he's weak from not eating. I have crickets in the cage and they eat carrots. I have a 100 wat heat lamp that is on 24/7 and a uv bulb that I leave on for 12 hours. He has lots of vines and branches to climb on. Live moss and real wood, and some plastic leaves. He's had his set up for a long time now. I was giving him calcium without the d3 every day, but the crickes I have right now are from a big box, so they were pre loaded. He hasn't really been interested in food for a while. He was loving super worms for about 6 months, but them became uninterested. I switched him back to crickets and over the last month, he just doesn't seem to really want to eat anothing. I have a little dropper going all the time. I mist him before work, and when I get home. Any advice would be appreciated.
Hello and welcome. I apologize that no one responded to you sooner. Different experts come on at various times. I just logged on and so your question. My name is ***** ***** I'm a biologist with a special interest in reptiles. I'm sorry to hear that Juicy Fruit is having some trouble. Some additional information will help me determine what steps you should take.What kind of chameleon is he - veiled, Panther, Jacksons, etc.?What temperatures do you maintain in the basking area and on the cool side of the dage?Does the container the crickets came in say what they are loaded with?How old is your UVB light? What is the brand?Thank you.
My thermometer broke... so I'm not sure the temp now.. he is a veiled. The UV is maybe a year old.
I don't have the box anymore that the crickets came in... but I'll upload a picture. I'm not sure what they are loaded with.. but they sure seem healthy.
Thank you for getting back to me. Will watch for the picture. I'm working on some information for you now, and will post it as soon as I have it typed up. I appreciate your patience.
I attached the picture with my last comment. Did it go through?

I just got it. Thank you. I'm reading up on that brand of crickets now, and then will type up your answer.

Ok. Thank you.

Thank you for waiting. Chameleons are one of the most delicate of reptiles, and are more difficult to keep in captivity than most species. To complicate that, pet owners trust pet store personnel to give them good information on care, and that doesn't often happen. As a result, many chameleons die young. You are probably right that Juicy Fruit is dehydrated, but I suspect something more is going on. I'll explain. Your chameleon has symptoms of Metabolic Bone Disease. Being wobbly and weak are symptoms. It can take months to years for MBD to progress to the point where it causes symptoms, and once it does, it's very difficult to treat. MBD can result from too little vitamin D, lack of calcium, too much phosphorus, or an imbalance of these and other nutrients. In Juicy Fruit's case, a combination of factors is at work.

It's extremely important that you buy a new UVB light.A Reptisun 10.0 is a good brand. If you choose another brand be absolutely certain it provides UVB rays. Don't take the word of pet store personnel, but read it for yourself. Full-spectrum, DayGlo, daylight, UV, and UVA are NOT the same thing. I'm putting a lot of emphasis on this because it's crucial to a reptile’s health. Without this light, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) will develop because they won't be able to produce vitamin D. Vitamin supplements are not a good replacement for the proper lighting. UVB bulbs must be replaced every six months as they lose their effectiveness after that, even though they may still look fine. The lights give off both visible light and UVB rays, which humans cannot see. After 6 months, almost no UVB is emitted. Visible light continues to be given off for years, so the lights look fine.

The crickets you have may be healthy, but being gut loaded doesn't guarantee adequate calcium. Most of the gut loading nutrients are eliminated in the cricket's droppings within 48 hours. It's important to dust the crickets with plain calcium powder. Chameleons also need plant foods. One of the easiest ways to provide them is to grow live plants in the cage. Live plants also keep the humidity level up. This site has lists of safe and unsafe plants:


You can also feed collard greens and other purchased greens. This site has great information on what vegetables to feed, and how often:


Temperature is also a factor, so it's important to get a good thermometer. Chameleons are adaptable to temperature extremes in their wild habitat, but there they can move around to find warmer or cooler spots. In a cage they have no choice. After months of being too cold, illness often develops. The coldest part of the cage should be 82.5*F. There should be a warm basking area that is kept at 89*F to 113*F. That sounds hot to us, but to a chameleon, it is just right. at night the temperature can be allowed to drop to 72*F to 79*F. Use a good digital probe thermometer to measure the temperature. You can adjust the temperature by raising or lowering the fixture or by changing the bulb to one with higher or lower wattage. If you have to lower the fixture, don't put it so low that your chameleon can touch it and be burned. I suggest that you read the information on this site for more advice on care:


If you hope to save Juicy Fruit, there are immediate steps you must take. Get the new UVB light. Check the temps and adjust if need be. We need to get some calcium into him. Since he won,t eat, I'll give you another way, which will also help with dehydration. I'll be right back with that.

Now for first aid.

Buy some Pedialyte (yes, the kind for human infants). Prepare a shallow bath consisting of 1/2 water and 1/2 Pedialyte. Mix in a big scoop of calcium powder. Soak Juicy Fruit for about 20 to 30 minutes twice a day. Reptiles can absorb the electrolytes and fluids through their vents (where droppings pass out), so make the water deep enough to cover the vent. Be sure to supervise closely.

Juicy Fruit is in critical condition at this point. Wobbliness indicates that. I suspect the vet you saw previously didn't really know much about reptiles. If you want to consider seeing a different one, this link will take you to a directory of reptile vets:


In summary, buy a new UVB light, check and adjust temps, begin Pedilayte/calcium soaks, and consider a vet viist. If you have more questions, just let me know. I hope Juicy Fruit will be able to recover.


My goal is to provide you with excellent 5 star service – if you feel you have gotten anything less, please reply back, I am happy to address follow-up questions. Please remember to rate my service after you have all the information you need. I will greatly appreciate a positive rating as that is the only way I am compensated. Thank you!

Thank you so much
You're very welcome.
Hi, I'm just following up on our conversation about your pet. How is everything going? Anna
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