I have a male and female chameleon. They were both doing just fine until the male tried or did breed with the female.

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Customer: I have a male and female chameleon. They were both doing just fine until the male tried or did breed with the female. Since that happened the female is not eating and acting as through she is not well. I am able to get her to eat one worm or cricket a day but nothing more. Of and on she gets yellow spots on her body with the rest of the coloring the normal green. Any ideas on what is going on or what I can do for her. The male is still in the same cage though does not bother her.
Answered by Anna in 4 hours 5 years ago
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Anna
30+ years of experience
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17,050 satisfied customers

Specialities include: Reptile Veterinary, Herp Veterinary, Exotic Animal Medicine, Amphibian Veterinary

Hello,

I apologize that no one has responded to your question sooner. Different experts come online at various times. I just logged on and saw your question. My name is ***** ***** I’m a biologist with a special interest in reptiles. I'm sorry to hear of this problem. Some additional information will help me determine if there are steps you can take or if you need to see a reptile vet.

What kind of chameleon is this - veiled, panther, Jackson's etc.?

What is the brand name of the light that is supposed to provide sunlight?

Does she get a calcium supplement regularly?

What temperatures do you maintain under the heat lamp and on the cool side of the enclosure?

Has she been passing normal droppings?

Thank you.

Customer
What kind of chameleon is this - veiled, panther, Jackson's etc.?
I do not know what kind it is. I have attached a photo of her. In the photo she has yellow spots which she does not always have.
**What is the brand name of the light that is supposed to provide sunlight?
The light is a Zoo Med
**Does she get a calcium supplement regularly?
We have dusted cricket with calcium but probably not as often as we should.
**What temperatures do you maintain under the heat lamp and on the cool side of the enclosure?
This I do not know as the cage is one of the ones that are not enclosed with glass. It is a screen one though regularly both the female and male are neat the lights. Although the female has not been climbing high to the light so I put a light on the counter low to help keep her warm and for the most part she stays there by the light.
**Has she been passing normal droppings?
As far as I am aware she has normal droppings.But as I said initially she was find until the male breeded with her though I know that could just be a coincidence.

Thank you for getting back to me. She is a veiled chameleon. The yellow spots are normal. I suspect the underlying cause of the problem is related to the mating, but there are some other factors involved.

I'm going to start you out with a first aid measure to take. Buy some Pedialyte (yes, the kind for human infants). Prepare a shallow bath consisting of 1/2 water and 1/2 Pedialyte. Mix in a big scoop of calcium powder. Soak your chameleon for about 20 to 30 minutes twice a day. Reptiles can absorb the electrolytes and fluids through their vents (where droppings pass out), so make the water deep enough to cover the vent.Be sure to supervise closely.

Chameleons are one of the most delicate of reptiles, and are more difficult to keep in captivity than most species. To complicate that, pet owners trust pet store personnel to give them good information on care, and that doesn't often happen. As a result, many chameleons die young.

It doesn't matter what kind of cage you have - most chameleons are kept in the type you have- the temperature must be monitored with a good thermometer. Chameleons are adaptable to temperature extremes in their wild habitat, but there they can move around to find warmer or cooler spots. In a cage they have no choice. After months of being too cold, illness often develops. The coldest part of the cage should be 82.5*F. There should be a warm basking area that is kept at 89*F to 113*F. That sounds hot to us, but to a chameleon, it is just right. at night the temperature can be allowed to drop to 72*F to 79*F. Use a good digital probe thermometer to measure the temperature. You can adjust the temperature by raising or lowering the fixture or by changing the bulb to one with higher or lower wattage. If you have to lower the fixture, don't put it so low that your chameleon can touch it and be burned. I suggest that you read the information on this site for more advice on care:

http://www.kingsnake.com/rockymountain/RMHPages/RMHveiled.htm

Prey should be dusted in plain calcium powder. Chameleons also need plant foods. One of the easiest ways to provide them is to grow live plants in the cage. Live plants also keep the humidity level up. This site has lists of safe and unsafe plants:

http://www.anapsid.org/resources/plants2.html

You can also feed collard greens and other purchased greens. This site has great information on what vegetables to feed, and how often:

http://www.repticzone.com/articles/lettuceandleavesstaples.html

Many of the Zoo Med lights don't provide UVB light. If yours doesn't, it's extremely important that you buy an additional light that produces UVB rays. A Reptisun 10.0 is a good brand that does. If you choose another brand be absolutely certain it provides UVB rays. Don't take the word of pet store personnel, but read it for yourself. Full-spectrum, DayGlo, daylight, UV, and UVA are NOT the same thing. I'm putting a lot of emphasis on this because it's crucial to a reptile’s health. Without this light, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) will develop because they won't be able to produce vitamin D. Vitamin supplements are not a good replacement for the proper lighting. MBD causes a very slow and painful death. UVB bulbs must be replaced every six months as they lose their effectiveness after that, even though they may still look fine. Light that comes through a window isn't sufficient because the glass filters out the UVB rays.

Now for what is probably going on. Your chameleon is very likely to be having reproductive problems. She may be egg bound (unable to lay eggs). There could be a problem with the egg follicles, or she may have an infection. She could have been injured during the process. On top of whatever problem she has, the lack of sufficient calcium and perhaps of UVB light complicate things. For females, the reproductive process requires much more calcium than usual. If she doesn't get enough, problems with reproduction will result. Once that happens, you won't be able to fix the problem at home. You'll need a vet. A vet may need to take x-rays and do blood work. This link will take you to a directory of reptile vets:

http://www.anapsid.org/vets/index.html#vetlist

The other measures I gave you will help support her. If you have more questions, just let me know. I hope she will be able to recover.

Anna

My goal is to provide you with excellent 5 star service – if you feel you have gotten anything less, please reply back, I am happy to address follow-up questions. Please remember to rate my service after you have all the information you need. I will greatly appreciate a positive rating as that is the only way I am compensated. Thank you!

Customer
Hello thank you for your reply, very helpful information. I only have a few more questions than I will give you your much deserved rating. About her eating do you have suggestions on how I can get her to eat anything. She has eaten occasionally 1 meal worm and last night acted like she was going to eat a cricket and I put romaine lettuce in the cage but as far as I am aware she has not attempted to eat any of that. Just wondering if there is something that I can do to put something into her system while trying to get her better.Than on the soaking it the vent her butt oops never minds I just reread your notes it is that. I will start doing that today when I get some Pedialyte. And as for the water temp I would assume it needs to be at least warm or a little hotter than warm.
And I do have another cage that is not being used, though the male is not bothering her would it be better to move her into that cage by her self.I think that is all the questions I have concerning what you have said.
Hello again, and you're welcome. The water temp for the soaks should be about 100*. That is barely warm to the touch. Since our body temp is over 98*, 100* won't feel all that warm to us. It's best to use a thermometer.As for not eating, if she is chilly, warming her up should result in an increased appetite. Soaks also help. It usually takes a few hours at proper temps before there is a change. However, if she is suffering from egg binding or another reproductive problem, she won't regain her appetite until the problem is taken care of. When those types of conditions are occurring, a chameleon feels sick, and food is the last thing they want. Force feeding is not an option unless a vet has demonstrated it. It most often results in aspiration into the lungs, which is life threatening. On your own, all you can try is proper warmth and Pedialyte soaks. Dehydration is a bigger threat than not eating, and the soaks will prevent that.If the male is completely leaving her alone, there's no reason to move her.If you need anything else, don't hesitate to ask.
Customer
Thank you so much for your information. It is all helpful and hopefully she will over come what ever is happening to her. I do appreciate your knowledge.
You're very welcome. I hope she'll be able to recover, too.
Hi Eva, I'm just following up on our conversation about N/A. How is everything going? Anna
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