I apologize that no one has responded to your question sooner. Different experts come online at various times. I just logged on and saw your question. My name is ***** ***** I’m a biologist with a special interest in reptiles. I'm sorry to hear of this problem. Some additional information will help me determine if there are steps you can take or if you need to see a reptile vet.
What kind of chameleon is this - veiled, panther, Jackson's etc.?
What is the brand name of the light that is supposed to provide sunlight?
Does she get a calcium supplement regularly?
What temperatures do you maintain under the heat lamp and on the cool side of the enclosure?
Has she been passing normal droppings?
Thank you for getting back to me. She is a veiled chameleon. The yellow spots are normal. I suspect the underlying cause of the problem is related to the mating, but there are some other factors involved.
I'm going to start you out with a first aid measure to take. Buy some Pedialyte (yes, the kind for human infants). Prepare a shallow bath consisting of 1/2 water and 1/2 Pedialyte. Mix in a big scoop of calcium powder. Soak your chameleon for about 20 to 30 minutes twice a day. Reptiles can absorb the electrolytes and fluids through their vents (where droppings pass out), so make the water deep enough to cover the vent.Be sure to supervise closely.
Chameleons are one of the most delicate of reptiles, and are more difficult to keep in captivity than most species. To complicate that, pet owners trust pet store personnel to give them good information on care, and that doesn't often happen. As a result, many chameleons die young.
It doesn't matter what kind of cage you have - most chameleons are kept in the type you have- the temperature must be monitored with a good thermometer. Chameleons are adaptable to temperature extremes in their wild habitat, but there they can move around to find warmer or cooler spots. In a cage they have no choice. After months of being too cold, illness often develops. The coldest part of the cage should be 82.5*F. There should be a warm basking area that is kept at 89*F to 113*F. That sounds hot to us, but to a chameleon, it is just right. at night the temperature can be allowed to drop to 72*F to 79*F. Use a good digital probe thermometer to measure the temperature. You can adjust the temperature by raising or lowering the fixture or by changing the bulb to one with higher or lower wattage. If you have to lower the fixture, don't put it so low that your chameleon can touch it and be burned. I suggest that you read the information on this site for more advice on care:
Prey should be dusted in plain calcium powder. Chameleons also need plant foods. One of the easiest ways to provide them is to grow live plants in the cage. Live plants also keep the humidity level up. This site has lists of safe and unsafe plants:
You can also feed collard greens and other purchased greens. This site has great information on what vegetables to feed, and how often:
Many of the Zoo Med lights don't provide UVB light. If yours doesn't, it's extremely important that you buy an additional light that produces UVB rays. A Reptisun 10.0 is a good brand that does. If you choose another brand be absolutely certain it provides UVB rays. Don't take the word of pet store personnel, but read it for yourself. Full-spectrum, DayGlo, daylight, UV, and UVA are NOT the same thing. I'm putting a lot of emphasis on this because it's crucial to a reptile’s health. Without this light, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) will develop because they won't be able to produce vitamin D. Vitamin supplements are not a good replacement for the proper lighting. MBD causes a very slow and painful death. UVB bulbs must be replaced every six months as they lose their effectiveness after that, even though they may still look fine. Light that comes through a window isn't sufficient because the glass filters out the UVB rays.
Now for what is probably going on. Your chameleon is very likely to be having reproductive problems. She may be egg bound (unable to lay eggs). There could be a problem with the egg follicles, or she may have an infection. She could have been injured during the process. On top of whatever problem she has, the lack of sufficient calcium and perhaps of UVB light complicate things. For females, the reproductive process requires much more calcium than usual. If she doesn't get enough, problems with reproduction will result. Once that happens, you won't be able to fix the problem at home. You'll need a vet. A vet may need to take x-rays and do blood work. This link will take you to a directory of reptile vets:
The other measures I gave you will help support her. If you have more questions, just let me know. I hope she will be able to recover.
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