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Anna
Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist
Category: Reptile
Satisfied Customers: 11421
Experience:  Have owned turtles, snakes, amphibians, and lizards. Study and provide habitat for wild herps.
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I have a bearded dragon and feed him kale and right now

Customer Question

Hello.
JA: Hello. What do you want help with?
Customer: I have a bearded dragon and feed him kale and right now primarily mealy worms that I order through the "Premium Cricket Company". He isn't eating a lot and hasn't had a bowel movement in over 10 days. I give him warm-hot baths three times a week and massage his abdomen. He also has water in his tank that sometimes he jumps in during the day. I am worried about him.
JA: I'm sorry to hear that. There are all sorts of infestations the dragon can pick up. I'll have you talk to the Veterinarian who'll sort out what is wrong and help you decide what to do about it. Is there anything else important you think the Veterinarian should know about the dragon?
Customer: No-he is the sweetest pet-loves to be held.
Submitted: 7 months ago.
Category: Reptile
Expert:  Anna replied 7 months ago.

Hello and welcome. My name is ***** ***** I'm a biologist with a special interest in reptiles. Bearded dragons are very personable pets. I'm sorry to hear yours is having some problems. Sometimes conditions in the cage can contribute to such problems, so some additional information will help me determine the best steps for you to take.

What temperatures do you maintain under the basking light and on the cool side of the enclosure?

What brand of UVB light do you have? How old is the bulb?

What substrate do you use on the cage floor?

Do you feed any supplements?

How old is your dragon?

Thank you.

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Basking light is 95 degrees
He has a red light that the person at Petco recommended for nighttime.
I keep the hot lights on for approximately 12 hours and the night light on for 12 hours.
He has a carpet on the floor and a log he loves to bask on.
I put a calcium supplement on the mealy worms.
He likes kale, and also pears.
He is almost a year old.Thank you for your help.
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I'm looking at the tempter gauge in his tank now and it is at 89 degrees and 60% humidity.
Expert:  Anna replied 7 months ago.

Thank you for getting back to me.

I suspect you got your information on care from a pet store. Most people do. While we should be able to rely on such information, unfortunately, it is often wrong. They sell people the wrong lighting, advise the wrong foods, and often don't know the correct temperatures for the various reptiles. After months of things not being quite right, the animal becomes ill. Some of what you have been told is wrong, and I suspect that is why Diamond is having so much trouble. Even though you have been trying so hard to keep him healthy, when you didn't have correct information to begin with, things are going wrong. I'm working on your answer now, and will be back with information to help you as soon as I have it typed up. I appreciate your patience.

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
The name is ***** ***** How do
i know this is for real?
Customer: replied 7 months ago.
I'm calling my credit card company.
Expert:  Anna replied 7 months ago.

Thank you for waiting. The name Diamond is what came up with your first post., so that is what I was going by. I'll try to catch all the places where I typed it and change it. I can assure you I am a real person. JustAnswer is A+ rated with the BBB.

One of the big problems is that Diamond is freezing cold. A beardie who is cold will be lethargic, not want to eat a lot, and may even try to hide. The very coldest part of his cage should be 85*F to 90*F. For a youngster his age, the basking spot should be at least 110*F. The latest research on bearded dragons has shown that they can't even begin to digest their food properly until their internal body temperature reaches 98*F. Being cold-blooded, the only way for that to happen is for them to lie in a very hot basking area.You can increase the temperature by using a higher wattage bulb in the basking light fixture, lowering t he fixture itself (but not so low that he can be burned on it), or by adding a second fixture. If you need a second fixture, you don't have to buy something expensive from a pet store.If you live in an area that has farm stores, you can buy a clip-on metal light fixture made to keep baby chicks warm for just a few dollars. Don't buy the accompanying bulb, however. You need an ordinary incandescent bulb in the basking light. Hardware and home improvement stores sell similar light fixtures as work lights.

As for the constipation, that is probably the result of being cold and the diet.

I would discontinue the mealworms. They are not a good food because they contain too much chitin and can't be digested properly. They're OK for some other lizards, but not for beardies. They are a very common cause of constipation. Crickets that are no bigger than the space between your beardie’s eyes area better choice. Silk worms are another excellent food. I'm glad to hear you are dusting with calcium - continue that with the new prey insects. Kale is another bad food, but for a different reason. It is high in oxalates, which bind calcium, making it unusable by the body. A variety of greens is important - collards, dandelion, turnip greens, etc as well as summer squash. I'm going to give you a link to a reputable and easy to understand site for information on feeding because there is too much for me to explain here:

http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html

I use this site a lot because it is all color coded.

He doesn't need that red light. Petco recommended it just to make more money. Beardies do better with a night time temperature drop into the 70's. Most homes don't get any cooler than that. They are a desert lizard in nature, with very hot daytime temps, and lower ones at night. However, you do need another light which Petco didn't recommend.

It's extremely important that you buy an additional light that produces UVB rays. A Reptisun 10.0 is a good brand that does. If you choose another brand be absolutely certain it provides UVB rays. Don't take the word of pet store personnel, but read it for yourself. Full-spectrum, DayGlo, daylight, UV, and UVA are NOT the same thing. I'm putting a lot of emphasis on this because it's crucial to a reptile’s health. Without this light, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) will develop because they won't be able to produce vitamin D. Vitamin supplements are not a good replacement for the proper lighting. MBD causes a very slow and painful death. UVB bulbs must be replaced every six months as they lose their effectiveness after that, even though they may still look fine. Light that comes through a window isn't sufficient because the glass filters out the UVB rays.

Expert:  Anna replied 7 months ago.

Do you want me to continue with a first aid measure and more information or have you decided to cancel? I'm happy to continue working with you, but there's no point in both of us wasting our time. Let me know.

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
please continue.
Expert:  Anna replied 7 months ago.

OK. Thank you. The soaks were a good idea, but we can make them better.

Buy some Pedialyte (yes, the kind for human infants) and some baby food prunes. Drop a small dollop of the prunes right on the end of his snout. Most of the time, reflexes will cause them to lick it off. Wait about 45 minutes, then prepare a shallow warm bath consisting of 1/2 warm water and 1/2 Pedialyte. Soak your dragon for about 20 to 30 minutes. After the first 10 minutes, with him still in the water, gently massage his underside from front to vent for an additional 10 minutes. That may be enough to help him pass some feces. Be sure to supervise closely. This can be repeated tomorrow if you don't get results tonight. The prunes are an important part of this. If this doesn't work in a couple of days, it is best to see a vet. The chitin in the mealworms can accumulate and cause a complete blockage. a vet can give special laxatives, an enema, or in extreme cases, perform surgery to clear the blockage. I hope that won't be necessary, but if it is, this link will take you to a directory of reptile vets:

http://www.anapsid.org/vets/index.html#vetlist

Because pet stores give out so much incorrect information, I’m also sending along a care sheet, courtesy of Joan, another of our experts. Joan has many years experience keeping and rescuing beardies.Her care sheet is used on some reputable websites, so you may have even seen it before. I suggest that you use the care sheet as a check list to provide the best possible care for your beardie. If you have more questions, just let me know. I'm happy to address your follow-up concerns. I hope your dragon will reach a full recovery.

Anna

My goal is to provide you with excellent 5 star service – if you feel you have gotten anything less, please reply back, I am happy to address follow-up questions. Please remember to rate my service after you have all the information you need. I will greatly appreciate a positive rating as that is the only way I am compensated. Thank you!

Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
Bearded dragons should be housed alone.
Ages of bearded dragons follow these guidelines:
0-3 months- baby 3-12 months-juvenile 12-18 months- sub adult 18 months + -adult

Bearded dragons live as much as 10-12 years if well cared for properly.
Bearded dragons have a very good temperament as long as they are cared for and handled.
When you bring your baby home, it may be quite stressful to him/her to get use to new home. May not eat well the first 2-3 days. They may not need to be handled the first 2-3 days if skittish and nervous.
Never use sand or any other type of loose substrate: Loose substrates can cause impaction (not being able to go Poop) in all ages of bearded dragons- they lick their environment to explore .It is difficult to keep germ free and clean. Ceramic tile, newspaper, non adhesive shelf liner and reptile carpet is what is most recommended. Use paper towels for the little one and as they get bigger you can change to something else.
Be sure you keep your beardies home as clean as you can. Clean up by spot cleaning when needed. Clean & sanitize entire tank every 10-14 days. A good cleaning solution is a 20% bleach solution. If you choose to use wood climbing branches etc, these should be soaked in the bleach solution and rinsed well. Then bake in 250 degree oven for 30 minutes.
Need a climbing accessory: to bask and to warm up under basking heat light and lower branches or platforms to come down and cool off.
A hide of some sort like a cave.
A food dish and water dish.
Plastic spray bottle
Can use artificial plants when they get older- 3 months or so.
Digital thermostat and/or temp gun
Tank size: Minimal size tank for this age is 20 gallon long
Minimal size for older beardie: 4 months of age: 40 gallon breeder is the minimal tank size for older dragon. Can divide a 40 gallon breeder for a smaller dragon. Must have two lights for your beardie.

A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended.
2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.

Lights should be on for 12-14 hours each day. Follow the seasons and light timers are a great luxury if you can get them. 6 dollars at Lowe's. No lights or warmth needed at night unless your temperatures get below 62 degrees. If they do, there are ceramic heat emitters that put out no light, only heat. Use these at night if temperatures fall below 62 degrees.

Temperatures have to be kept at the following ranges during the day:

Babies: Warm basking log: 105-115* degrees F (40.5 - 46*C)
Cool side: 85-90 (29.5 - 32*C)

Adults: Warm basking spot: 105-110*F (40.5- 43*C)
Cool side: 80-85 (26.6 - 29.5*C)
Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.

Feeding a Beardie: Beardies eat live prey consisting of crickets, roaches and/or silkworms. Never feed any size of mice to your beardie. Never feed meal worms. They also must be given greens/veggies everyday. The younger they are the more live prey they should have. As they grow older the live prey decreases and the veggies/greens should be the major part of diet. Never feed anything bigger, than the space between your beardie's eyes. This includes both live prey and pieces of veggies/greens,.
A chopper or food processor is a huge help when your beardie is small. Always offer greens and veggies: collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, cabbage, red cabbage, fresh green beans, yellow summer squash, butternut squash, sweet potato, cactus pad. Apricots, strawberries, apples, blueberries, raspberries, cantaloupe- fruits are treats only.

What is live prey? The easiest and less expensive live prey is crickets when you have a young or first beardie. The other live preys you can feed are silkworms, and special types of roaches. You can learn to raise your own live prey. Treats can be wax worms, super worms, and tomato/Goliath worms. You may find that ordering live prey from the internet is the way to go..... Never leave live prey or greens/veggies in tank overnight. . Crickets can bite your beardie when sleeping.

Babies should get 80% live prey, and 20 % greens/veggies. But since the greens/veggies are a must when they are older, get them eating their greens/veggies very early. Give greens/veggies in small pieces everyday. You should eventually start decreasing your older dragon's protein intake when they are about a year to 15 months old. Their protein intake decreases to 20 % live prey and 80% veggies/greens. A baby eats 50-75 crix a day depending on the size of the crickets. Never feed crix or veggies bigger than the space between your beardie's eyes. Use this guide when buying crix or chopping your greens/veggies.
You must provide calcium dust without D3 and multivitamin dust for your beardie. You should dust the live prey with calcium one time a day, and vitamins 3 times a week. Just collect your live prey into baggie and add enough calcium and vitamin to dust them. Then pour a few at a time into your tank. Some people feed their beardie in a separate tank so that no crickets can hide. Or some take out "furniture" from tank and feed this way. As they get older, 4-5 months or so dust live prey with calcium 3 times a week.

Feed the veggies/ greens 1st thing in morning after lights on for one hour at least. Then after 2-3 hours offer crix. Then freshen green/veggies. Then give more crix. Make sure after last crix feeding there is at least 1-2 hours of lights so that they can digest their food before night time.

Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.

Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.

Customer: replied 7 months ago.
Excellent-I will do all this.Thank you-
Expert:  Anna replied 7 months ago.
You're very welcome. I wish you success.