My name is **** my bearded dragon lost all movement in s…

Thank you for waiting. I appreciate your patience.

I suspect you got your information on care from a pet store. Most people do. While we should be able to rely on such information, unfortunately, it is often wrong. They sell people the wrong lighting, advise the wrong foods, and often don't know the correct temperatures for the various reptiles. After months of things not being quite right, the animal becomes ill. Some of what you have been told is wrong, and I suspect that is why Jaxx is having so much trouble. Even though you have been trying so hard to keep him healthy, when you didn't have correct information to begin with, things are going wrong.

It is very likely that Jaxx is suffering from calcium deficiency - Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). MBD is caused by an imbalance of calcium, phosphorus, and vitamin D in the body. The most common reason for its occurrence is lack of UVB light rays or a lack of calcium. Most of the Exo Terra lights provide only heat - no UVB at all. Full-spectrum lighting, UVA, SunGlo, and UV also do not. It's extremely important that you buy an additional light that produces UVB rays as soon as possible. A Reptisun 10.0 in the straight tube style is a good brand that does. If you choose another brand be absolutely certain it provides UVB rays. Don't take the word of pet store personnel, but read it for yourself.I'm putting a lot of emphasis on this because it's crucial to a reptile’s health. Without this light, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) will always develop because they won't be able to produce vitamin D. Vitamin supplements are not a good replacement for the proper lighting. MBD causes a very slow and painful death. Light that comes through a window isn't sufficient because the glass filters out the UVB rays.

Jaxx also must have calcium as soon as possible, and each day. A plain calcium powder dusted on the crickets is the easiest way to start. However, since he already has a deficiency, you may also want to consider using a liquid supplement. Here is an online source.

http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Calciumglub.html

Lettuce is not an especially good food for dragons. Collards, dandelions, turnip greens, summer squash and many other fresh foods are better. I'm going to give you a link to a reputable and easy to understand site for information on feeding because there is too much for me to explain here:

http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html

It's extremely important that you get both a UVB light and a calcium as soon as possible.

Jaxx is also cold. The very coldest part of his cage should be 85*F to 90*F. For a youngster his age, the basking spot should be at least 105*F. The latest research on bearded dragons has shown that they can't even begin to digest their food properly until their internal body temperature reaches 98*F. Being cold-blooded, the only way for that to happen is for them to lie in a very hot basking area.You can increase the temperature by using a higher wattage bulb in the basking light fixture, lowering t he fixture itself (but not so low that he can be burned on it), or by adding a second fixture. If you need a second fixture, you don't have to buy something expensive from a pet store.If you live in an area that has farm stores, you can buy a clip-on metal light fixture made to keep baby chicks warm for just a few dollars. Don't buy the accompanying bulb, however. You need an ordinary incandescent bulb in the basking light. Hardware and home improvement stores sell similar light fixtures as work lights. The ehat light doesn't need to be left on 24/7. A night time temperature drop to the low 70's is actually healthier. Both the heat lamp and UVB light should be on for 12 to 14 hours per day.

Because pet stores give out so much incorrect information, I’m also sending along a care sheet, courtesy of Joan, another of our experts. Joan has many years experience keeping and rescuing beardies.Her care sheet is used on some reputable websites, so you may have even seen it before. I suggest that you use the care sheet as a check list to provide the best possible care for your beardie. If you have more questions, just let me know by clicking on REPLY. I hope Jaxx will reach a full recovery.

Anna

My goal is to provide you with excellent service – if you feel you have gotten anything less, please reply back, I am happy to address follow-up questions. Please remember to rate my service only after you have all the information you need. Thank you!

Bearded Dragon Care Sheet

Bearded dragons should be housed alone.

Ages of bearded dragons follow these guidelines:

0-3 months- baby
3-12 months-juvenile
12-18 months- sub adult
18 months + -adult

Bearded dragons live as much as 10-12 years if well cared for
properly.

Bearded dragons have a very good temperament as long as they
are cared for and handled.

When you bring your baby home, it may be quite stressful to
him/her to get use to new home. May not eat well the first 2-3 days. They may
not need to be handled the first 2-3 days if skittish and nervous.

Never use sand or any other type of loose substrate: Loose
substrates can cause impaction (not being able to go Poop) in all ages of
bearded dragons- they lick their environment to explore .It is difficult to keep
germ free and clean. Ceramic tile, newspaper, non adhesive shelf liner and
reptile carpet is what is most recommended. Use paper towels for the little one
and as they get bigger you can change to something else.

Be sure you keep your beardies home as clean as you can. Clean
up by spot cleaning when needed. Clean & sanitize entire tank every 10-14
days. A good cleaning solution is a 20% bleach solution. If you choose to use
wood climbing branches etc, these should be soaked in the bleach solution and
rinsed well. Then bake in 250 degree oven for 30 minutes.

Need a climbing accessory: to bask and to warm up under basking
heat light and lower branches or platforms to come down and cool off.

A hide of some sort like a cave.

A food dish and water dish.

Plastic spray bottle

Can use artificial plants when they get older- 3 months or so.

Digital thermostat and/or temp gun

Tank size: Minimal size tank for this age is 20 gallon long

Minimal size for older beardie: 4 months of age: 40 gallon
breeder is the minimal tank size for older dragon. Can divide a 40 gallon
breeder for a smaller dragon. Must have two lights for your beardie.

A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length
of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he
will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your
beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80
degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet
store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended.

2. A basking type light
that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth
to digest food & thrive.

Lights should be on for 12-14 hours each day. Follow the
seasons and light timers are a great luxury if you can get them. 6 dollars at
Lowe's. No lights or warmth needed at night unless your temperatures get below
62 degrees. If they do, there are ceramic heat emitters that put out no light,
only heat. Use these at night if temperatures fall below 62 degrees.

Temperatures have to be kept at the following ranges during the
day:

Babies: Warm basking log: 105-115* degrees F (40.5 - 46*C)

Cool side: 85-90 (29.5 - 32*C)

Adults: Warm basking spot: 105-110*F (40.5- 43*C)

Cool side: 80-85 (26.6 - 29.5*C)

Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most
accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.

Feeding a Beardie: Beardies eat live prey consisting of
crickets, roaches and/or silkworms. Never feed any size of mice to your beardie.
Never feed meal worms. They also must be given greens/veggies everyday. The
younger they are the more live prey they should have. As they grow older the
live prey decreases and the veggies/greens should be the major part of diet.
Never feed anything bigger, than the space between your beardie's eyes. This
includes both live prey and pieces of veggies/greens,.

A chopper or food processor is a huge help when your beardie is
small. Always offer greens and veggies: collard greens, turnip greens, mustard
greens, cabbage, red cabbage, fresh green beans, yellow summer squash, butternut
squash, sweet potato, cactus pad. Apricots, strawberries, apples, blueberries,
raspberries, cantaloupe- fruits are treats only.

What is live prey? The easiest and less expensive live prey is
crickets when you have a young or first beardie. The other live preys you can
feed are silkworms, and special types of roaches. You can learn to raise your
own live prey. Treats can be wax worms, super worms, and tomato/Goliath worms.
You may find that ordering live prey from the internet is the way to go.....
Never leave live prey or greens/veggies in tank overnight. . Crickets can bite
your beardie when sleeping.

Babies should get 80% live prey, and 20 % greens/veggies. But
since the greens/veggies are a must when they are older, get them eating their
greens/veggies very early. Give greens/veggies in small pieces everyday. You
should eventually start decreasing your older dragon's protein intake when they
are about a year to 15 months old. Their protein intake decreases to 20 % live
prey and 80% veggies/greens. A baby eats 50-75 crix a day depending on the size of the
crickets. Never feed crix or veggies bigger than the space between your
beardie's eyes. Use this guide when buying crix or chopping your greens/veggies.

You must provide calcium dust without D3 and multivitamin dust
for your beardie. You should dust the live prey with calcium one time a day, and
vitamins 3 times a week. Just collect your live prey into baggie and add enough
calcium and vitamin to dust them. Then pour a few at a time into your tank. Some
people feed their beardie in a separate tank so that no crickets can hide. Or
some take out "furniture" from tank and feed this way. As they get older, 4-5
months or so dust live prey with calcium 3 times a week.

Feed the veggies/ greens 1st thing in morning after lights on
for one hour at least. Then after 2-3 hours offer crix. Then freshen
green/veggies. Then give more crix. Make sure after last crix feeding there is
at least 1-2 hours of lights so that they can digest their food before night
time.

Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available
during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.

Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a
day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your
dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie
is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm
water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can
move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath
enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between
dragons too if bathing more than one.

Fruits and Vegetables:

http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutritionframeset.html

Walnut Shell Graphic:

http://mrskingsbioweb.com/beardeddragngrossanatomy.htm

Sexing Bearded Dragons:

http://repticzone.com/articles/sexingbeardeddragons.html

You're welcome. Unless the MBD has progressed to the point that internal organs are damaged, it can usually be reversed. It will take both calcium and UVB light to help him.