How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Anna Your Own Question
Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist
Category: Reptile
Satisfied Customers: 11433
Experience:  Have owned turtles, snakes, amphibians, and lizards. Study and provide habitat for wild herps.
Type Your Reptile Question Here...
Anna is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

I think my bearded dragon is sick. Her chin, tummy and tail

Customer Question

I think my bearded dragon is sick. Her chin, tummy and tail is turning black. Idk what to do. I'm scared that she's dying. Please help!
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Reptile
Expert:  Anna replied 1 year ago.

Hello and welcome. Thank you for requesting me. I'm sorry to hear of your beardie's problem. Turning black is a sign of stress. We need to figure out what is stressing her. This post is not your answer, but is a request for more information. So don't rate my service yet. we are just beginning.

What temperatures do you maintain under the basking light and on the cool side of the enclosure?

What brand and size of UVB light do you have? How old is the bulb?

Has she been passing normal droppings?

What substrate do you use on the cage floor?

What do you feed her? any supplements?

Thank you.


Customer: replied 1 year ago.
her basking light is always at around 100 her overall temperature around the tank is from anywhere from 85 to 95. the UVB light is from National Geographic we don't use amy sand only like a green mat. She eats mainly cricket sometimes mealworms but we try to just feed her cricket with powdered calcium. her poop has been a little busy but still somewhat firm
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
her poop has been a little gooey but still somewhat firm
Expert:  Anna replied 1 year ago.

Thank you for getting back to me. I'm working on your answer, and will post it as soon as I have it typed up. I'll be back shortly.

Expert:  Anna replied 1 year ago.

Thank you for waiting.I'm going to give you two steps to take right away.Buy some Pedialyte (yes, the kind for human infants). Prepare a shallow bath consisting of 1/2 water and 1/2 Pedialyte. Soak your dragon for about 20 to 30 minutes twice a day. Reptiles can absorb the electrolytes and fluids through their vents (where droppings pass out), so make the water deep enough to cover the vent. Be sure to supervise closely.

Next, increase the temperature in the basking area to 105*F to 110*F. Your cool side temperatures are fine. Many times a couple of soaks and warmer basking temperatures will result in a quick improvement. If they don't, it would be best to see a reptile vet. This link will take you to a directory of them:

I am a little concerned about your UVB light. National Geographic makes several different bulbs, and not all of them provide UVB light. Dragons need UVB lights with an output of 10%. If you unscrew the bulb, you may be able to read some information on the bulb itself. If it doesn't say UVB, I suggest getting a new one. The Reptisun 10.0 in the straight tube style is a good one. Insufficient UVB light is a source of stress. Make sure the light is on for 12 hours per day.

I would discontinue the mealworms. They are not a good food because they contain too much chitin and can't be digested properly. They're OK for some other lizards, but not for beardies. . Crickets that are no bigger than the space between your beardie’s eyes area better choice. Silk worms are another excellent food. I'm going to give you a link to a reputable and easy to understand site for information on feeding because there is too much for me to explain here:

Because pet stores give out so much incorrect information, I’m also sending along a care sheet, courtesy of Joan, another of our experts. Joan has many years experience keeping and rescuing beardies.Her care sheet is used on some reputable websites, so you may have even seen it before. I suggest that you use the care sheet as a check list to provide the best possible care for your beardie. If you have more questions, just let me know by clicking on REPLY. I hope the soaks and warmth will quickly help.


My goal is to provide you with excellent service – if you feel you have gotten anything less, please reply back, I am happy to address follow-up questions. Please remember to rate my service only after you have all the information you need. Thank you!

Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
Bearded dragons should be housed alone.
Ages of bearded dragons follow these guidelines:
0-3 months- baby 3-12 months-juvenile 12-18 months- sub adult 18 months + -adult

Bearded dragons live as much as 10-12 years if well cared for properly.
Bearded dragons have a very good temperament as long as they are cared for and handled.
When you bring your baby home, it may be quite stressful to him/her to get use to new home. May not eat well the first 2-3 days. They may not need to be handled the first 2-3 days if skittish and nervous.
Never use sand or any other type of loose substrate: Loose substrates can cause impaction (not being able to go Poop) in all ages of bearded dragons- they lick their environment to explore .It is difficult to keep germ free and clean. Ceramic tile, newspaper, non adhesive shelf liner and reptile carpet is what is most recommended. Use paper towels for the little one and as they get bigger you can change to something else.
Be sure you keep your beardies home as clean as you can. Clean up by spot cleaning when needed. Clean & sanitize entire tank every 10-14 days. A good cleaning solution is a 20% bleach solution. If you choose to use wood climbing branches etc, these should be soaked in the bleach solution and rinsed well. Then bake in 250 degree oven for 30 minutes.
Need a climbing accessory: to bask and to warm up under basking heat light and lower branches or platforms to come down and cool off.
A hide of some sort like a cave.
A food dish and water dish.
Plastic spray bottle
Can use artificial plants when they get older- 3 months or so.
Digital thermostat and/or temp gun
Tank size: Minimal size tank for this age is 20 gallon long
Minimal size for older beardie: 4 months of age: 40 gallon breeder is the minimal tank size for older dragon. Can divide a 40 gallon breeder for a smaller dragon. Must have two lights for your beardie.

A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended.
2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.

Lights should be on for 12-14 hours each day. Follow the seasons and light timers are a great luxury if you can get them. 6 dollars at Lowe's. No lights or warmth needed at night unless your temperatures get below 62 degrees. If they do, there are ceramic heat emitters that put out no light, only heat. Use these at night if temperatures fall below 62 degrees.

Temperatures have to be kept at the following ranges during the day:

Babies: Warm basking log: 105-115* degrees F (40.5 - 46*C)
Cool side: 85-90 (29.5 - 32*C)

Adults: Warm basking spot: 105-110*F (40.5- 43*C)
Cool side: 80-85 (26.6 - 29.5*C)
Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.

Feeding a Beardie: Beardies eat live prey consisting of crickets, roaches and/or silkworms. Never feed any size of mice to your beardie. Never feed meal worms. They also must be given greens/veggies everyday. The younger they are the more live prey they should have. As they grow older the live prey decreases and the veggies/greens should be the major part of diet. Never feed anything bigger, than the space between your beardie's eyes. This includes both live prey and pieces of veggies/greens,.
A chopper or food processor is a huge help when your beardie is small. Always offer greens and veggies: collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, cabbage, red cabbage, fresh green beans, yellow summer squash, butternut squash, sweet potato, cactus pad. Apricots, strawberries, apples, blueberries, raspberries, cantaloupe- fruits are treats only.

What is live prey? The easiest and less expensive live prey is crickets when you have a young or first beardie. The other live preys you can feed are silkworms, and special types of roaches. You can learn to raise your own live prey. Treats can be wax worms, super worms, and tomato/Goliath worms. You may find that ordering live prey from the internet is the way to go..... Never leave live prey or greens/veggies in tank overnight. . Crickets can bite your beardie when sleeping.

Babies should get 80% live prey, and 20 % greens/veggies. But since the greens/veggies are a must when they are older, get them eating their greens/veggies very early. Give greens/veggies in small pieces everyday. You should eventually start decreasing your older dragon's protein intake when they are about a year to 15 months old. Their protein intake decreases to 20 % live prey and 80% veggies/greens. A baby eats 50-75 crix a day depending on the size of the crickets. Never feed crix or veggies bigger than the space between your beardie's eyes. Use this guide when buying crix or chopping your greens/veggies.
You must provide calcium dust without D3 and multivitamin dust for your beardie. You should dust the live prey with calcium one time a day, and vitamins 3 times a week. Just collect your live prey into baggie and add enough calcium and vitamin to dust them. Then pour a few at a time into your tank. Some people feed their beardie in a separate tank so that no crickets can hide. Or some take out "furniture" from tank and feed this way. As they get older, 4-5 months or so dust live prey with calcium 3 times a week.

Feed the veggies/ greens 1st thing in morning after lights on for one hour at least. Then after 2-3 hours offer crix. Then freshen green/veggies. Then give more crix. Make sure after last crix feeding there is at least 1-2 hours of lights so that they can digest their food before night time.

Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.

Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
We gave her a bath with the pedialyte and water and she pooped in the water. She Bacame a little more alert after that but she's still not moving a lot. Her eyes are closed. We will be taking her to the vet first thing tomorrow.
Expert:  Anna replied 1 year ago.

Dehydration is always a big worry when they are stressed or sick, so the soak should help with that. I hope you can get into the vet right away, and that she will be all right.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Do you think I should be extremely concerned. Because I'm freaking out.
Expert:  Anna replied 1 year ago.

There is cause for concern. The black coloring and closed eyes are not good. However, the fact that she perked up a little and pooped in the water are good signs. I feel bad for you because the best thing to do would be to see a vet tonight, but unfortunately, with reptiles that's nearly impossible. Most reptile vets aren't available for night calls. Most of the vets staffing the emergency clinics are not familiar with reptiles. If you live in a big city, you may be able to find an emergency reptile vet, but in most areas, that just isn't possible. All we can do under circumstances like these is to keep the beardie hydrated. You already did that. Complicating matters is that it can be difficult to tell how sick a lizard really is. Symptoms that seem very serious can turn out to be minor, and vice versa. Regardel

Expert:  Anna replied 1 year ago.

Regardkess, you have done all you can for tonight. I understand freaking out - I do it with my own animals - but in the end it doesn't do any good. I wish I could give you something else to try, but the only effective first aid is a Pedialyte soak.

Expert:  Anna replied 1 year ago.

Hello again,

I'm just checking to see how your beardie came through the night, and what the vet found. I hope things are OK.


Customer: replied 1 year ago.
She didn't make it. It happened at the vet.
:, (
Expert:  Anna replied 1 year ago.

I am so sorry. You did everything you could under some very difficult circumstances. I was hoping for a good outcome, but it wasn't to be. I know that words don't really help, but all I can do is offer my condolences. I'm sorry for your loss. Anna

Expert:  Anna replied 1 year ago.
I'm just following up on our conversation about Felipa. How is everything going?