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My bearded does not eat and lays around and does nothing. but

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when i bring her out...
my bearded does not eat and lays around and does nothing. but when i bring her out of the cage she is active? it looks like she has lost a lot a weight.
Submitted: 2 years ago.Category: Reptile
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Answered in 13 minutes by:
7/16/2015
Reptile Expert: Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist replied 2 years ago
Anna
Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist
Category: Reptile
Satisfied Customers: 11,658
Experience: Have owned turtles, snakes, amphibians, and lizards. Study and provide habitat for wild herps.
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Hello and welcome. My name is ***** ***** I'm a biologist with a special interest in reptiles. I'm sorry to hear of this problem. Some additional information will be useful.
What temperatures do you maintain under the basking light and on the cool side of the enclosure?
How long did you leave her in the bath?
How long have you had Bella?
Has she been passing any droppings?
Thank you.
Anna
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
the temp during the day time is in the 95-100F range and at night its 80-90F.we leave her in the bath about 5 min or try to before she gets out.we have had her about 3 weeks this weekendshe passed a dropping yesterday other then that i do not know.colin
Reptile Expert: Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist replied 2 years ago
Thank you for getting back to me. I'm working on your answer and will post it as soon as I have it put together and typed up. I'll be back shortly.
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Reptile Expert: Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist replied 2 years ago
Thank you for waiting, Colin. First of all, many lizards come into pet stores with illnesses and parasites. For that reason, I recommend that all new reptile pets be examined by a vet shortly after purchase. When something isn't quite right, this is even more important. If you decide to do that, this site has a directory of reptile vets:
http://www.anapsid.org/vets/index.html#vetlist
I suspect you got your information on care from a pet store. Most people do. While we should be able to rely on such information, unfortunately, it is often wrong. They sell people the wrong lighting, advise the wrong foods, and often don't know the correct temperatures for the various reptiles. Some of what you have been told is wrong, and I suspect that is at least part of the reason Bella is not doing well. Even though you have been trying so hard to keep him healthy, when you didn't have correct information to begin with, things are going wrong.
Your temperature on the warm side is a bit too cold. A beardie who is chilly will be lethargic, not want to eat a lot, and may even try to hide. The very coldest part of the cage should be 85*F to 90*F. For a youngster this age, the basking spot should be 105*F to 110*F. The latest research on bearded dragons has shown that they can't even begin to digest their food properly until their internal body temperature reaches 98*F. Being cold-blooded, the only way for that to happen is for them to lie in a very hot basking area.You can increase the temperature by using a higher wattage bulb in the basking light fixture, lowering t he fixture itself (but not so low that she can be burned on it), or by adding a second fixture. If you need a second fixture, you don't have to buy something expensive from a pet store.If you live in an area that has farm stores, you can buy a clip-on metal light fixture made to keep baby chicks warm for just a few dollars. Don't buy the accompanying bulb, however. You need an ordinary incandescent bulb in the basking light. Hardware and home improvement stores sell similar light fixtures as work lights. At night the temperatures can be allowed to fall into the 70's.
You're probably right that Bella is a bit dehydrated. You're on the right track with baths , but I'll tell you a way to make them better. Prepare a shallow bath consisting of 1/2 warm water (100*F) and 1/2 Pedialyte. Soak Bella for about 20 to 30 minutes twice a day. Reptiles can absorb the electrolytes and fluids through their vents (where droppings pass out), so make the water deep enough to cover the vent. Be sure to supervise closely. You may have to gently hold her in the water, but it does take this long for her to absorb the fluids.
After she has been warmer and has had a nice soak or two, you can try feeding her. Get some plain meat baby food. Drop a small dollop right on the end of her snout. Most of the time they will lick it off.
If you don't get any results with these first aid measures, a vet visit will be necessary because that will mean she is probably already sick.
Because pet stores give out so much incorrect information, I’m also sending along a care sheet, courtesy of Joan, another of our experts. Joan has many years experience keeping and rescuing beardies.Her care sheet is used on some reputable websites, so you may have even seen it before. I suggest that you use the care sheet as a check list to provide the best possible care for your beardie. If you have more questions, just let me know by clicking on REPLY. I hope Bella will thrive.
Anna
My goal is to provide you with excellent service – if you feel you have gotten anything less, please reply back, I am happy to address follow-up questions. Please remember to rate my service only after you have all the information you need. Thank you!
BEARDED DRAGON CARE SHEET
Bearded dragons should be housed alone.
Ages of bearded dragons follow these guidelines:
0-3 months- baby 
 3-12 months-juvenile 
12-18 months- sub adult 
18 months + -adult
Bearded dragons live as much as 10-12 years if well cared for 
properly.
Bearded dragons have a very good temperament as long as they 
are cared for and handled.
When you bring your baby home, it may be quite stressful to 
him/her to get use to new home. May not eat well the first 2-3 days. They may 
not need to be handled the first 2-3 days if skittish and nervous.
Never use sand or any other type of loose substrate: Loose 
substrates can cause impaction (not being able to go Poop) in all ages of 
bearded dragons- they lick their environment to explore .It is difficult to keep 
germ free and clean. Ceramic tile, newspaper, non adhesive shelf liner and 
reptile carpet is what is most recommended. Use paper towels for the little one 
and as they get bigger you can change to something else.
Be sure you keep your beardies home as clean as you can. Clean 
up by spot cleaning when needed. Clean & sanitize entire tank every 10-14 
days. A good cleaning solution is a 20% bleach solution. If you choose to use 
wood climbing branches etc, these should be soaked in the bleach solution and 
rinsed well. Then bake in 250 degree oven for 30 minutes.
Need a climbing accessory: to bask and to warm up under basking 
heat light and lower branches or platforms to come down and cool off.
A hide of some sort like a cave.
A food dish and water dish.
Plastic spray bottle
Can use artificial plants when they get older- 3 months or so.
Digital thermostat and/or temp gun
Tank size: Minimal size tank for this age is 20 gallon long
Minimal size for older beardie: 4 months of age: 40 gallon 
breeder is the minimal tank size for older dragon. Can divide a 40 gallon 
breeder for a smaller dragon. Must have two lights for your beardie.
A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length 
of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he 
will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your 
beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 
degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet 
store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended.
2. A basking type light 
that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth 
to digest food & thrive.
Lights should be on for 12-14 hours each day. Follow the 
seasons and light timers are a great luxury if you can get them. 6 dollars at 
Lowe's. No lights or warmth needed at night unless your temperatures get below 
62 degrees. If they do, there are ceramic heat emitters that put out no light, 
only heat. Use these at night if temperatures fall below 62 degrees.
Temperatures have to be kept at the following ranges during the 
day:
Babies: Warm basking log: 105-115* degrees F (40.5 - 46*C)
Cool side: 85-90 (29.5 - 32*C)
Adults: Warm basking spot: 105-110*F (40.5- 43*C)
Cool side: 80-85 (26.6 - 29.5*C)
Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most 
accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
Feeding a Beardie: Beardies eat live prey consisting of 
crickets, roaches and/or silkworms. Never feed any size of mice to your beardie. 
Never feed meal worms. They also must be given greens/veggies everyday. The 
younger they are the more live prey they should have. As they grow older the 
live prey decreases and the veggies/greens should be the major part of diet. 
Never feed anything bigger, than the space between your beardie's eyes. This 
includes both live prey and pieces of veggies/greens,.
A chopper or food processor is a huge help when your beardie is 
small. Always offer greens and veggies: collard greens, turnip greens, mustard 
greens, cabbage, red cabbage, fresh green beans, yellow summer squash, butternut 
squash, sweet potato, cactus pad. Apricots, strawberries, apples, blueberries, 
raspberries, cantaloupe- fruits are treats only.
What is live prey? The easiest and less expensive live prey is 
crickets when you have a young or first beardie. The other live preys you can 
feed are silkworms, and special types of roaches. You can learn to raise your 
own live prey. Treats can be wax worms, super worms, and tomato/Goliath worms. 
You may find that ordering live prey from the internet is the way to go..... 
Never leave live prey or greens/veggies in tank overnight. . Crickets can bite 
your beardie when sleeping.
Babies should get 80% live prey, and 20 % greens/veggies. But 
since the greens/veggies are a must when they are older, get them eating their 
greens/veggies very early. Give greens/veggies in small pieces everyday. You 
should eventually start decreasing your older dragon's protein intake when they 
are about a year to 15 months old. Their protein intake decreases to 20 % live 
prey and 80% veggies/greens. A baby eats 50-75 crix a day depending on the size of the 
crickets. Never feed crix or veggies bigger than the space between your 
beardie's eyes. Use this guide when buying crix or chopping your greens/veggies.
You must provide calcium dust without D3 and multivitamin dust 
for your beardie. You should dust the live prey with calcium one time a day, and 
vitamins 3 times a week. Just collect your live prey into baggie and add enough 
calcium and vitamin to dust them. Then pour a few at a time into your tank. Some 
people feed their beardie in a separate tank so that no crickets can hide. Or 
some take out "furniture" from tank and feed this way. As they get older, 4-5 
months or so dust live prey with calcium 3 times a week.
Feed the veggies/ greens 1st thing in morning after lights on 
for one hour at least. Then after 2-3 hours offer crix. Then freshen 
green/veggies. Then give more crix. Make sure after last crix feeding there is 
at least 1-2 hours of lights so that they can digest their food before night 
time.
Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available 
during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a 
day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your 
dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie 
is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm 
water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can 
move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath 
enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between 
dragons too if bathing more than one.
Fruits and Vegetables:
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutritionframeset.html
Walnut Shell Graphic:
http://mrskingsbioweb.com/beardeddragngrossanatomy.htm
Sexing Bearded Dragons:
http://repticzone.com/articles/sexingbeardeddragons.html
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
plain meat baby food <-- what is that? is it just regular baby food with meet? or is it something different
Customer reply replied 2 years ago
plain meat baby food
what is that? is it just baby food or something special that i will need to find?
Reptile Expert: Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist replied 2 years ago
It is regular baby food with nothing in it but meat so, chicken, beef, lamb, etc. we specify plain to make sure there are no onions in it - they can be toxic to lizards. No rice or pasta because they can't digest those.
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