As I suspected they did not sell you a UVB light. They sold you a Basking light and a black night light. http://www.anapsid.org/uvtable.html
You need just two bulbs The basking bulb is exactly what it is for heat and basking and the other bulb you should have is a Reptisun 10.0 florescent UVB tube to supply UVB rays and to help metabolize the calcium put on the prey. You should be feeding 80% live prey and 20% veggies like finely chopped collard greens, mustard greens and curly endives. The tank should only house one Dragon. You should never have more than one dragon per tank. Leaving more than one dragon in the tank leads to bullying, which I suspect is what is happening. It also can lead to tail nips, toe nips and loss of limbs. They should have warned you that tank was way too small. The only time we bring two Dragons together is to breed and that is for a short period of time and the female is brought to the male's tank and removed after breeding. Right now the Dragons needs to be separated asap. I personally would return two of the Dragons unless you plan on getting more tanks. As the Dragons grow, they will each need a 40 gallon breeder tank. I am going to give you my care sheet and you can see the information I give to new owners. After you read it, please reply if you have further questions and I will be happy to continue with you. Joan
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
- Bearded dragons should be housed alone.
- Ages of bearded dragons follow these guidelines:
1. 0-3 months- baby
2. 3-12 months-juvenile
months- sub adult
4. 18 months + -adult
- Bearded dragons live as much as 10-12 years if well cared for
- Bearded dragons have a very good temperament as long as they
are cared for and handled.
- When you bring your baby home, it may be quite stressful to
him/her to get use to new home. May not eat well the first 2-3 days. They may
not need to be handled the first 2-3 days if skittish and nervous.
- Never use sand or any other type of loose substrate: Loose
substrates can cause impaction (not being able to go Poop) in all ages of
bearded dragons- they lick their environment to explore .It is difficult to keep
germ free and clean. Ceramic tile, newspaper, non adhesive shelf liner and
reptile carpet is what is most recommended. Use paper towels for the little one
and as they get bigger you can change to something else.
- Be sure you keep your beardies home as clean as you can. Clean
up by spot cleaning when needed. Clean & sanitize entire tank every 10-14
days. A good cleaning solution is a 20% bleach solution. If you choose to use
wood climbing branches etc, these should be soaked in the bleach solution and
rinsed well. Then bake in 250 degree oven for 30 minutes.
- Need a climbing accessory: to bask and to warm up under basking
heat light and lower branches or platforms to come down and cool off.
- A hide of some sort like a cave.
- A food dish and water dish.
- Plastic spray bottle
- Can use artificial plants when they get older- 3 months or so.
- Digital thermostat and/or temp gun
- Tank size: Minimal size tank for this age is 20 gallon long
- Minimal size for older beardie: 4 months of age: 40 gallon
breeder is the minimal tank size for older dragon. Can divide a 40 gallon
breeder for a smaller dragon. Must have two lights for your beardie.
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length
of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he
will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your
beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80
degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet
store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended.
2. A basking type light
that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth
to digest food & thrive.
- Lights should be on for 12-14 hours each day. Follow the
seasons and light timers are a great luxury if you can get them. 6 dollars at
Lowe's. No lights or warmth needed at night unless your temperatures get below
62 degrees. If they do, there are ceramic heat emitters that put out no light,
only heat. Use these at night if temperatures fall below 62 degrees.
- Temperatures have to be kept at the following ranges during the
Babies: Warm basking log: 105-125 degrees F
Cool side: 85-90
Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115
Cool side: 80-85
temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most
accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
- Feeding a Beardie: Beardies eat live prey consisting of
crickets, roaches and/or silkworms. Never feed any size of mice to your beardie.
Never feed meal worms. They also must be given greens/veggies everyday. The
younger they are the more live prey they should have. As they grow older the
live prey decreases and the veggies/greens should be the major part of diet.
Never feed anything bigger, than the space between your beardie's eyes. This
includes both live prey and pieces of veggies/greens,
- A chopper or food processor is a huge help when your beardie is
small. Always offer greens and veggies: collard greens, turnip greens, mustard
greens, cabbage, red cabbage, fresh green beans, yellow summer squash, butternut
squash, sweet potato, cactus pad. Apricots, strawberries, apples, blueberries,
raspberries, cantaloupe- fruits are treats only.
- What is live prey? The easiest and less expensive live prey is
crickets when you have a young or first beardie. The other live preys you can
feed are silkworms, and special types of roaches. You can learn to raise your
own live prey. Treats can be wax worms, super worms, and tomato/Goliath worms.
You may find that ordering live prey from the internet is the way to go.....
Never leave live prey or greens/veggies in tank overnight. . Crickets can bite
your beardie when sleeping.
- Babies should get 80% live prey, and 20 % greens/veggies. But
since the greens/veggies are a must when they are older, get them eating their
greens/veggies very early. Give greens/veggies in small pieces everyday. You
should eventually start decreasing your older dragon's protein intake when they
are about a year to 15 months old. Their protein intake decreases to 20 % live
prey and 80% veggies/greens.
- A baby eat 50-75 crix a day depending on the size of the
crickets. Never feed crix or veggies bigger than the space between your
beardie's eyes. Use this guide when buying crix or chopping your greens/veggies.
- You must provide calcium dust without D3 and multivitamin dust
for your beardie. You should dust the live prey with calcium one time a day, and
vitamins 3 times a week. Just collect your live prey into baggie and add enough
calcium and vitamin to dust them. Then pour a few at a time into your tank. Some
people feed their beardie in a separate tank so that no crickets can hide. Or
some take out "furniture" from tank and feed this way. As they get older, 4-5
months or so dust live prey with calcium 3 times a week.
- Feed the veggies/ greens 1st thing in morning after lights on
for one hour at least. Then after 2-3 hours offer crix. Then freshen
green/veggies. Then give more crix. Make sure after last crix feeding there is
at least 1-2 hours of lights so that they can digest their food before night
*Beardies over the age of one year old during
the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a
form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights
should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available
during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a
day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your
dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie
is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm
water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can
move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath
enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between
dragons too if bathing more than one.
If you have any further questions feel free to ask. I like to
start people off with proper husbandry and then see if I can further
fruits and Vegetables
Walnut shell Graphic: http://mrskingsbioweb.com/beardeddragngrossanatomy.htm
sexing bearded Dragons: http://repticzone.com/articles/sexingbeardeddragons.html