Reptile
Have Reptile Veterinary Questions? Ask a Reptile Expert.
Connect one-on-one with {0} who will answer your question
Answered in 8 hours by:
12/4/2012
Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist
Category: Reptile
Satisfied Customers: 14,681
Experience: Have owned turtles, snakes, amphibians, and lizards. Study and provide habitat for wild herps.
VerifiedHello,
I apologize that no one has responded to your question sooner. Different experts come online at various times. I just came online and saw your question. I'm sorry to hear that your beardie is having so many problems, and I can tell how much you love her and are worried about her. From your description, she does have MBD. The receding jaw and difficulty moving are key signs.Laying eggs, especially at such a young age, puts a severe strain on the body and depletes it of calcium. Such cases can be reversed, but you probably will need the help of a reptile vet. Sometimes when we have exotic pets, it is necessary to drive long distances, but other times, there are vets closer than we think. This link will take you to a directory of reptile vets in Canada:
http://www.triciaswaterdragon.com/canrepvt.htm
Another possibility is to find a local vet who would be willing to work by phone consultation with one of the reptile vets. This is a common practice in remote areas.
Of course, there will be a fee for both vets. Misty may be helped by special forms of injected or oral calcium that are more easily used by the body.
In the meantime, ignore any advise you get from pet stores. While we should be able to rely on such information, unfortunately, it is often wrong. They sell people the wrong lighting, advise the wrong foods, and often don't know the correct temperatures for the various reptiles. After months or years of things not being quite right, the animal becomes ill. This is one of the leading causes of reptile health problems.
Bearded dragons are solitary by nature. They should be kept separately. They often get along when young, but as sexual maturity occurs, that ends. You saw this in yours. Many times, serious injuries occur. They do not miss each other or get depressed. In the wild, they come together briefly for mating. Sometimes when aggression begins, we humans do not see all the bullying that goes on. A weaker dragon may be kept from the basking light or the food.
In addition, when conditions aren't quite right (but are close) a dragon under stress will develop problems while a stronger one will do well. Producing eggs and being bullied put Misty under a great deal of stress. I recommend getting her into her own set-up. I can tell you ahve gone to great lengths to care for your dragons, but I also suspect you got much of information from pet stores, and that at least part of it is incorrect. The first thing to do is check your UVB light to make sure it really is a UVB light. Don't take the word of pet store personnel, but read it for yourself. Full-spectrum, DayGlo, daylight, UV, and UVA are NOT the same thing. I'm putting a lot of emphasis on this because it's so crucial to a reptile’s health. If you aren't sure, give me the brand and size, and I'll figure it out. Also, if the light is a spiral or coil type, its output is unreliable. sometimes they put out enough UVB to damage the eyes, while other times, it's not enough to prevent MBD. when you next get a light, I recommend the Reptisun 10.0 in the straight tube style.
As for feeding, discontinue the mealworms at once. They are fine for some lizards, but they contain too much chitin for beardies to digest. This causes impaction. Crickets are fine. Silkworms are one of the best prey insects. Few pet stores carry them, but there are companies that ship worldwide. Here are three of them:
http://coastalsilkworms.com/splash.html
http://www.mulberryfarms.com/
http://www.nyworms.com/dubiacare.htm
Some of the produce you are using doesn't represent the best choices either. Fruit should only be used as a rare treat. Here's one of the most reputable websites on bearded dragon feeding. I recommend it to all dragon owners. It is very clear and thorough. You may find your grocery store has more nutritious choices than you think.
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
I'll also give you a first aid measure to use until you can see a vet. Buy an electrolyte solution. In the USA, that would be unflavored Pedialyte (yes, the kind for human infants). In the UK, it would be a product called Lectaid, which is sold in pet stores. In Australia, it’s a human product called Dioralyte. One or more of these should be available in your area. Prepare a shallow bath consisting of 1/2 water and 1/2 electrolyte solution. Add a big spoonful of calcium powder and mix it in as well as you can (some forms don't mix easily, but just do your best). Soak Misty for about 20 to 30 minutes twice a day. Reptiles can absorb the electrolytes and fluids through their vents (where droppings pass out), so make the water deep enough to cover the vent. Be sure to supervise closely.
If Misty isn't eating well, you can try an alternate feeding method temporarily. Get some plain meat bay food. Mix in calcium powder. Drop a small dollop right on the end of her snout. Many times they will lick it off.
Because pet stores so often give out wrong information, and it is crucial that everything be right for Misty, I’m also sending along a care sheet, courtesy of Joan, another of our experts. Joan has many years experience keeping and rescuing beardies. You probably already know much of what is in it, I suggest that you use the care sheet as a check list to provide the best possible care for your beardies. Proper temperatures are especially important for calcium metabolism. If you have more questions, just let me know by clicking on REPLY. I hope your Misty will reach a full recovery.
Anna
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
* Bearded dragons should be housed alone.
* Ages of bearded dragons follow these guidelines:
1. 0-3 months- baby
2. 3-12 months-juvenile
3. 12-18 months- sub adult
4. 18 months + -adult
* Bearded dragons live as much as 10-12 years if well cared for properly.
* Bearded dragons have a very good temperament as long as they are cared for and handled.
* When you bring your baby home, it may be quite stressful to him/her to get use to new home. May not eat well the first 2-3 days. They may not need to be handled the first 2-3 days if skittish and nervous.
* Never use sand or any other type of loose substrate: Loose substrates can cause impaction (not being able to go Poop) in all ages of bearded dragons- they lick their environment to explore .It is difficult to keep germ free and clean. Ceramic tile, newspaper, non adhesive shelf liner and reptile carpet is what is most recommended. Use paper towels for the little one and as they get bigger you can change to something else.
* Be sure you keep your beardies home as clean as you can. Clean up by spot cleaning when needed. Clean & sanitize entire tank every 10-14 days. A good cleaning solution is a 20% bleach solution. If you choose to use wood climbing branches etc, these should be soaked in the bleach solution and rinsed well. Then bake in 250 degree oven for 30 minutes.
* Need a climbing accessory: to bask and to warm up under basking heat light and lower branches or platforms to come down and cool off.
* A hide of some sort like a cave.
* A food dish and water dish.
* Plastic spray bottle
* Can use artificial plants when they get older- 3 months or so.
* Digital thermostat and/or temp gun
* Tank size: Minimal size tank for this age is 20 gallon long
* Minimal size for older beardie: 4 months of age: 40 gallon breeder is the minimal tank size for older dragon. Can divide a 40 gallon breeder for a smaller dragon. Must have two lights for your beardie.
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended.
2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.
* Lights should be on for 12-14 hours each day. Follow the seasons and light timers are a great luxury if you can get them. 6 dollars at Lowe's. No lights or warmth needed at night unless your temperatures get below 62 degrees. If they do, there are ceramic heat emitters that put out no light, only heat. Use these at night if temperatures fall below 62 degrees.
* Temperatures have to be kept at the following ranges during the day:
Babies: Warm basking log: 110-125 degrees F (43.5* to 51.5*C)
Cool side: 85-90 (29.5* to 32*C)
Adults: Warm basking spot: 105-115F (40.5*C to 46*C)
Cool side: 80-85F (27*C to 29*C)
Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
* Feeding a Beardie: Beardies eat live prey consisting of crickets, roaches and/or silkworms. Never feed any size of mice to your beardie. Never feed mealworms. They also must be given greens/veggies everyday. The younger they are the more live prey they should have. As they grow older the live prey decreases and the veggies/greens should be the major part of diet. Never feed anything bigger, than the space between your beardie's eyes. This includes both live prey and pieces of veggies/greens,
* A chopper or food processor is a huge help when your beardie is small. Always offer greens and veggies: collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, cabbage, red cabbage, fresh green beans, yellow summer squash, butternut squash, sweet potato, cactus pad. Apricots, strawberries, apples, blueberries, raspberries, cantaloupe- fruits are treats only.
* What is live prey? The easiest and less expensive live prey is crickets when you have a young or first beardie. The other live preys you can feed are silkworms, and special types of roaches. You can learn to raise your own live prey. Treats can be waxworms, super worms, and tomato/goliath worms. You may find that ordering live prey from the internet is the way to go..... Never leave live prey or greens/veggies in tank overnight. . Crickets can bite your beardie when sleeping.
* Babies should get 80% live prey, and 20 % greens/veggies. But since the greens/veggies are a must when they are older, get them eating their greens/veggies very early. Give greens/veggies in small pieces everyday. You should eventually start decreasing your older dragon's protein intake when they are about a year to 15 months old. Their protein intake decreases to 20 % live prey and 80% veggies/greens.
* A baby can eat 50-75 crix a day. Never feed crix or veggies bigger than the space between your beardie's eyes. Use this guide when buying crix or chopping your greens/veggies.
* You must provide calcium dust without D3 and multivitamin dust for your beardie. You should dust the live prey with calcium one time a day, and vitamins 3 times a week. Just collect your live prey into baggie and add enough calcium and vitamin to dust them. Then pour a few at a time into your tank. Some people feed their beardie in a separate tank so that no crickets can hide. Or some take out "furniture" from tank and feed this way. As they get older, 4-5 months or so dust live prey with calcium 3 times a week.
* Feed the veggies/ greens 1st thing in morning after lights on for one hour at least. Then after 2-3 hours offer crix. Then freshen green/veggies. Then give more crix. Make sure after last crix feeding there is at least 1-2 hours of lights so that they can digest their food before night time.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.
I apologize that no one has responded to your question sooner. Different experts come online at various times. I just came online and saw your question. I'm sorry to hear that your beardie is having so many problems, and I can tell how much you love her and are worried about her. From your description, she does have MBD. The receding jaw and difficulty moving are key signs.Laying eggs, especially at such a young age, puts a severe strain on the body and depletes it of calcium. Such cases can be reversed, but you probably will need the help of a reptile vet. Sometimes when we have exotic pets, it is necessary to drive long distances, but other times, there are vets closer than we think. This link will take you to a directory of reptile vets in Canada:
http://www.triciaswaterdragon.com/canrepvt.htm
Another possibility is to find a local vet who would be willing to work by phone consultation with one of the reptile vets. This is a common practice in remote areas.
Of course, there will be a fee for both vets. Misty may be helped by special forms of injected or oral calcium that are more easily used by the body.
In the meantime, ignore any advise you get from pet stores. While we should be able to rely on such information, unfortunately, it is often wrong. They sell people the wrong lighting, advise the wrong foods, and often don't know the correct temperatures for the various reptiles. After months or years of things not being quite right, the animal becomes ill. This is one of the leading causes of reptile health problems.
Bearded dragons are solitary by nature. They should be kept separately. They often get along when young, but as sexual maturity occurs, that ends. You saw this in yours. Many times, serious injuries occur. They do not miss each other or get depressed. In the wild, they come together briefly for mating. Sometimes when aggression begins, we humans do not see all the bullying that goes on. A weaker dragon may be kept from the basking light or the food.
In addition, when conditions aren't quite right (but are close) a dragon under stress will develop problems while a stronger one will do well. Producing eggs and being bullied put Misty under a great deal of stress. I recommend getting her into her own set-up. I can tell you ahve gone to great lengths to care for your dragons, but I also suspect you got much of information from pet stores, and that at least part of it is incorrect. The first thing to do is check your UVB light to make sure it really is a UVB light. Don't take the word of pet store personnel, but read it for yourself. Full-spectrum, DayGlo, daylight, UV, and UVA are NOT the same thing. I'm putting a lot of emphasis on this because it's so crucial to a reptile’s health. If you aren't sure, give me the brand and size, and I'll figure it out. Also, if the light is a spiral or coil type, its output is unreliable. sometimes they put out enough UVB to damage the eyes, while other times, it's not enough to prevent MBD. when you next get a light, I recommend the Reptisun 10.0 in the straight tube style.
As for feeding, discontinue the mealworms at once. They are fine for some lizards, but they contain too much chitin for beardies to digest. This causes impaction. Crickets are fine. Silkworms are one of the best prey insects. Few pet stores carry them, but there are companies that ship worldwide. Here are three of them:
http://coastalsilkworms.com/splash.html
http://www.mulberryfarms.com/
http://www.nyworms.com/dubiacare.htm
Some of the produce you are using doesn't represent the best choices either. Fruit should only be used as a rare treat. Here's one of the most reputable websites on bearded dragon feeding. I recommend it to all dragon owners. It is very clear and thorough. You may find your grocery store has more nutritious choices than you think.
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
I'll also give you a first aid measure to use until you can see a vet. Buy an electrolyte solution. In the USA, that would be unflavored Pedialyte (yes, the kind for human infants). In the UK, it would be a product called Lectaid, which is sold in pet stores. In Australia, it’s a human product called Dioralyte. One or more of these should be available in your area. Prepare a shallow bath consisting of 1/2 water and 1/2 electrolyte solution. Add a big spoonful of calcium powder and mix it in as well as you can (some forms don't mix easily, but just do your best). Soak Misty for about 20 to 30 minutes twice a day. Reptiles can absorb the electrolytes and fluids through their vents (where droppings pass out), so make the water deep enough to cover the vent. Be sure to supervise closely.
If Misty isn't eating well, you can try an alternate feeding method temporarily. Get some plain meat bay food. Mix in calcium powder. Drop a small dollop right on the end of her snout. Many times they will lick it off.
Because pet stores so often give out wrong information, and it is crucial that everything be right for Misty, I’m also sending along a care sheet, courtesy of Joan, another of our experts. Joan has many years experience keeping and rescuing beardies. You probably already know much of what is in it, I suggest that you use the care sheet as a check list to provide the best possible care for your beardies. Proper temperatures are especially important for calcium metabolism. If you have more questions, just let me know by clicking on REPLY. I hope your Misty will reach a full recovery.
Anna
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
* Bearded dragons should be housed alone.
* Ages of bearded dragons follow these guidelines:
1. 0-3 months- baby
2. 3-12 months-juvenile
3. 12-18 months- sub adult
4. 18 months + -adult
* Bearded dragons live as much as 10-12 years if well cared for properly.
* Bearded dragons have a very good temperament as long as they are cared for and handled.
* When you bring your baby home, it may be quite stressful to him/her to get use to new home. May not eat well the first 2-3 days. They may not need to be handled the first 2-3 days if skittish and nervous.
* Never use sand or any other type of loose substrate: Loose substrates can cause impaction (not being able to go Poop) in all ages of bearded dragons- they lick their environment to explore .It is difficult to keep germ free and clean. Ceramic tile, newspaper, non adhesive shelf liner and reptile carpet is what is most recommended. Use paper towels for the little one and as they get bigger you can change to something else.
* Be sure you keep your beardies home as clean as you can. Clean up by spot cleaning when needed. Clean & sanitize entire tank every 10-14 days. A good cleaning solution is a 20% bleach solution. If you choose to use wood climbing branches etc, these should be soaked in the bleach solution and rinsed well. Then bake in 250 degree oven for 30 minutes.
* Need a climbing accessory: to bask and to warm up under basking heat light and lower branches or platforms to come down and cool off.
* A hide of some sort like a cave.
* A food dish and water dish.
* Plastic spray bottle
* Can use artificial plants when they get older- 3 months or so.
* Digital thermostat and/or temp gun
* Tank size: Minimal size tank for this age is 20 gallon long
* Minimal size for older beardie: 4 months of age: 40 gallon breeder is the minimal tank size for older dragon. Can divide a 40 gallon breeder for a smaller dragon. Must have two lights for your beardie.
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended.
2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.
* Lights should be on for 12-14 hours each day. Follow the seasons and light timers are a great luxury if you can get them. 6 dollars at Lowe's. No lights or warmth needed at night unless your temperatures get below 62 degrees. If they do, there are ceramic heat emitters that put out no light, only heat. Use these at night if temperatures fall below 62 degrees.
* Temperatures have to be kept at the following ranges during the day:
Babies: Warm basking log: 110-125 degrees F (43.5* to 51.5*C)
Cool side: 85-90 (29.5* to 32*C)
Adults: Warm basking spot: 105-115F (40.5*C to 46*C)
Cool side: 80-85F (27*C to 29*C)
Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
* Feeding a Beardie: Beardies eat live prey consisting of crickets, roaches and/or silkworms. Never feed any size of mice to your beardie. Never feed mealworms. They also must be given greens/veggies everyday. The younger they are the more live prey they should have. As they grow older the live prey decreases and the veggies/greens should be the major part of diet. Never feed anything bigger, than the space between your beardie's eyes. This includes both live prey and pieces of veggies/greens,
* A chopper or food processor is a huge help when your beardie is small. Always offer greens and veggies: collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, cabbage, red cabbage, fresh green beans, yellow summer squash, butternut squash, sweet potato, cactus pad. Apricots, strawberries, apples, blueberries, raspberries, cantaloupe- fruits are treats only.
* What is live prey? The easiest and less expensive live prey is crickets when you have a young or first beardie. The other live preys you can feed are silkworms, and special types of roaches. You can learn to raise your own live prey. Treats can be waxworms, super worms, and tomato/goliath worms. You may find that ordering live prey from the internet is the way to go..... Never leave live prey or greens/veggies in tank overnight. . Crickets can bite your beardie when sleeping.
* Babies should get 80% live prey, and 20 % greens/veggies. But since the greens/veggies are a must when they are older, get them eating their greens/veggies very early. Give greens/veggies in small pieces everyday. You should eventually start decreasing your older dragon's protein intake when they are about a year to 15 months old. Their protein intake decreases to 20 % live prey and 80% veggies/greens.
* A baby can eat 50-75 crix a day. Never feed crix or veggies bigger than the space between your beardie's eyes. Use this guide when buying crix or chopping your greens/veggies.
* You must provide calcium dust without D3 and multivitamin dust for your beardie. You should dust the live prey with calcium one time a day, and vitamins 3 times a week. Just collect your live prey into baggie and add enough calcium and vitamin to dust them. Then pour a few at a time into your tank. Some people feed their beardie in a separate tank so that no crickets can hide. Or some take out "furniture" from tank and feed this way. As they get older, 4-5 months or so dust live prey with calcium 3 times a week.
* Feed the veggies/ greens 1st thing in morning after lights on for one hour at least. Then after 2-3 hours offer crix. Then freshen green/veggies. Then give more crix. Make sure after last crix feeding there is at least 1-2 hours of lights so that they can digest their food before night time.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.
How JustAnswer works
Describe your issueThe assistant will guide you
Chat 1:1 with a reptile expertLicensed Experts are available 24/7
100% satisfaction guaranteeGet all the answers you need
Related Reptile Questions
My roommate has a bearded dragon, 7 mnths. He wants to know
My roommate has a bearded dragon, 7 mnths. He wants to know if he should breed her. He read that its unhealthy for her not to lay eggs. That the eggs just get built up inside her or something. Is that… read more
Anna
Reptile Expert, Biologist
Bachelor's Degree
14,681 satisfied customers
A couple questions. #1- My male beardie is not awesome at
Hi there, a couple questions. #1- My male beardie is not awesome at mating. His organ has never even touched our females vent. Can her eggs still be fertilized?#2- I can't find any good info on beardi… read more
Joan
Veterinary Technician
Private
9,649 satisfied customers
She/he is a juvenile and I just introduced a new dearded
She/he is a juvenile and I just introduced a new dearded dragon to her and her back turned black … read more
Anna
Reptile Expert, Biologist
Bachelor's Degree
14,681 satisfied customers
I request Anna if available. Hello, my male dragon is approx.
I request Anna if available. Hello, my male dragon is approx. 9 months old and is showing his first interest in my 5 yr. old female. This has been going on now for approx. two months. He gets a huge b… read more
Anna
Reptile Expert, Biologist
Bachelor's Degree
14,681 satisfied customers
at first the one i thought was male, started displaying head bobbing(
I ended up getting a hold of 2 bearded dragons from 2 different people. one i was told, was female and the other male. at first the one i thought was male, started displaying head bobbing(which i thou… read more
Joan
Veterinary Technician
Private
9,649 satisfied customers
I have a female bearded dragon and a male bearded dragon. The
I have a female bearded dragon and a male bearded dragon. The male seems just fine while the female seems to have some problems. Basically the female does not eat a lot, and spends a lot of time inhal… read more
Anna
Reptile Expert, Biologist
Bachelor's Degree
14,681 satisfied customers
My son has a male and a female leopard gecko. He loves them
My son has a male and a female leopard gecko. He loves them dearly and holds them frequently. He takes great care of them. We have had the male for about 2 1/2 years and the female for 1 1/2 years. He… read more
Joan
Veterinary Technician
Private
9,649 satisfied customers
ONE OF MY SIX BEARDED DRAGON HAVE A VERY BAD SKIN CONDITION.SHE
ONE OF MY SIX BEARDED DRAGON HAVE A VERY BAD SKIN CONDITION.SHE HAS BLACK SPOTS ON HER BOD ON HER BACK THE SKIN KEEPS COMING OFF,BLEEDING UNDER IT.I HAVE BEEN PUTING ANTIBIOTIC CREAM ON IT VIT E ETC.T… read more
Joan
Veterinary Technician
Private
9,649 satisfied customers
I just adopted 2 BD, the female is 4-5 yo and the male about
I just adopted 2 BD, the female is 4-5 yo and the male about 2. is there a possibility that she may lay eggs, or is she too old whats the oldest they get before stopping laying eggs?… read more
Anna
Reptile Expert, Biologist
Bachelor's Degree
14,681 satisfied customers
I have a male bearded dragon. Approx 18 month old. He is very
I have a male bearded dragon. Approx 18 month old. He is very small. Only about 10" long. He eats very little and acts like he is in perminent brumation. even during the summer in an outdoor pen of 22… read more
Anna
Reptile Expert, Biologist
Bachelor's Degree
14,681 satisfied customers
My female bearded dragon laid 15 eggs in december, 2 days later
My female bearded dragon laid 15 eggs in december, 2 days later they were all flat and dried up. Yesterday she laid 14 eggs, today they are all flat and dried up. why is this happening? Is there somet… read more
Joan
Veterinary Technician
Private
9,649 satisfied customers
Im worried abouth our bearded dragon he is off his food and
I'm worried abouth our bearded dragon he is off his food and has not eaten anything in a couple of days he is also overactive… read more
Anna
Reptile Expert, Biologist
Bachelor's Degree
14,681 satisfied customers
I have a 2 1/2 year old female bearded dragon. She has had
I have a 2 1/2 year old female bearded dragon. She has had a lot of health problems in the past, I have been feeding her escarole (mainly) and often times some mangos and bell peppers as well as a few… read more
Anna
Reptile Expert, Biologist
Bachelor's Degree
14,681 satisfied customers
our brearde dragon scratches at her cage like to get out all
our brearde dragon scratches at her cage like to get out all day long. she also has stopped eating her crickets. i did give her some of that pink food on some veggie for a bit because i needed to get … read more
Joan
Veterinary Technician
Private
9,649 satisfied customers
beardie: no movement so i gently opened the egg..breeding..paper towel
HI i need HELP quick please i have 3 female and 2 male beardies i just have my first lot of eggs start 2 hatch the first on fri night he/she was fine then a 2nd on sat morn fine 2 but on sundayi had 1… read more
Joan
Veterinary Technician
Private
9,649 satisfied customers
it possible to have the female spayed so she doesnt have eggs
I have a male and female bearded dragon and they are happy when they are together . Is it possible to have the female spayed so she doesnt have eggs every few months? I know a vet who will do it but d… read more
Joan
Veterinary Technician
Private
9,649 satisfied customers
insects..good or bad?...also i think they mated..too young
i have a male a female bearded draagon. the male is about 8months and 12 inches, the female is about 13 inches and 6 months...the male will not eat any veggies or fruit, insects only, is this good or … read more
Anna
Reptile Expert, Biologist
Bachelor's Degree
14,681 satisfied customers
My female has grown bigger at a much quicker rate than my male
My female has grown bigger at a much quicker rate than my male one and got quite fat recently and was hiding or burrowing under the rock cave I have for them for two days. I'm wondering if I should ta… read more
Joan
Veterinary Technician
Private
9,649 satisfied customers
Disclaimer: Information in questions, answers, and other posts on this site ("Posts") comes from individual users, not JustAnswer; JustAnswer is not responsible for Posts. Posts are for general information, are not intended to substitute for informed professional advice (medical, legal, veterinary, financial, etc.), or to establish a professional-client relationship. The site and services are provided "as is" with no warranty or representations by JustAnswer regarding the qualifications of Experts. To see what credentials have been verified by a third-party service, please click on the "Verified" symbol in some Experts' profiles. JustAnswer is not intended or designed for EMERGENCY questions which should be directed immediately by telephone or in-person to qualified professionals.
JustAnswer in the News:
Ask-a-doc Web sites: If you've got a quick question, you can try to get an answer from sites that say they have various specialists on hand to give quick answers... Justanswer.com.
JustAnswer.com...has seen a spike since October in legal questions from readers about layoffs, unemployment and severance.
Web sites like justanswer.com/legal
...leave nothing to chance.
...leave nothing to chance.
Traffic on JustAnswer rose 14 percent...and had nearly 400,000 page views in 30 days...inquiries related to stress, high blood pressure, drinking and heart pain jumped 33 percent.
Tory Johnson, GMA Workplace Contributor, discusses work-from-home jobs, such as JustAnswer in which verified Experts answer people’s questions.
I will tell you that...the things you have to go through to be an Expert are quite rigorous.
What Customers are Saying:
Thank you so much. Great knowledge of reptiles! Will use JustAnswer again if further problems arise.
KY
I must tell you I found this site by accident and was amazed when I asked a question of the Veteranians online. I wish I could have found it sooner it could have made such a difference in the outcome of my pet's surgery. However, I am passing along the information to my sister-in-law (a cat-rescue person who is also a nurse), and perhaps it will help someone else who may experience the same problem. The doctor who answered my question was amazing, and while it didn't come it time to change the outcome of my situation, it is reassuring to know the caliber of Vets/Doctors that you have at JustAnswer. Thank you for being there.
Jacksonville, Fl.
Wonderful service, prompt, efficient, and accurate. Couldn't have asked for more. I cannot thank you enough for your help.
Freshfield, Liverpool, UK
This expert is wonderful. They truly know what they are talking about, and they actually care about you. They really helped put my nerves at ease. Thank you so much!!!!
Los Angeles, CA
Thank you for all your help. It is nice to know that this service is here for people like myself, who need answers fast and are not sure who to consult.
Hesperia, CA
I couldn't be more satisfied! This is the site I will always come to when I need a second opinion.
Kernersville, NC
Just let me say that this encounter has been entirely professional and most helpful. I liked that I could ask additional questions and get answered in a very short turn around.
Woodstock, NY
< Previous | Next >
Meet the Experts:
Anna
Reptile Expert, Biologist
14,681 satisfied customers
Have owned turtles, snakes, amphibians, and lizards. Study and provide habitat for wild herps.
Joan
Veterinary Technician
9,649 satisfied customers
35+ years experience as veterinary tech and 40+ years experience doing reptile rescues.
Dr Gwen
Reptile Veterinarian
23 satisfied customers
Over 22 years experience with variety of reptiles, including pets and large collections
PitRottMommy
Veterinary Nurse
4,085 satisfied customers
15 years experience in veterinary medicine, special interest in reptiles and arachnids.
Dr. Caryn – Vet
Reptile Veterinarian
327 satisfied customers
Expert, Licensed Veterinarian
Mike McIntyre
Veterinarian
200 satisfied customers
Veterinarian at Sioux Nation Pet Clinic
Heath Wilkerson
ER/ICU & Exotic Animal Veterinarian
117 satisfied customers
Associate Veterinarian at Woodland West Animal Hospital
< Previous | Next >
Disclaimer: Information in questions, answers, and other posts on this site ("Posts") comes from individual users, not JustAnswer; JustAnswer is not responsible for Posts. Posts are for general information, are not intended to substitute for informed professional advice (medical, legal, veterinary, financial, etc.), or to establish a professional-client relationship. The site and services are provided "as is" with no warranty or representations by JustAnswer regarding the qualifications of Experts. To see what credentials have been verified by a third-party service, please click on the "Verified" symbol in some Experts' profiles. JustAnswer is not intended or designed for EMERGENCY questions which should be directed immediately by telephone or in-person to qualified professionals.
