Can you tell me about the set up?
UVB light and how old? Tube or coil? Strength
Temps and how measured?
Diet prey/ Type Veggies?
State to locate a Herp Vet?
Thank-you for the information. Please give me a few minutes to type an answer. I have a lot of information for you.
You have some husbandry issues which can be causing the Dragon the problems you are seeing. The sand can cause some major issues with Dragons. This will give you an idea about Sand as a substrate: http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/?page=3
I suggest using a solid substrate like tile, cage carpet, slate or paper. Sand can also cause skin problems and corneal ulcers in the eyes.
More than one Dragon should not be housed together. They each need a 40 gallon breeder tank. Dragons are actually solitary animals and the only time we bring two Dragons together is for breeding. Two males will fight as will two females together. Pets shops are there to sell the animals and do not give the correct information on
care. The problem with the leg may have been form some bullying or fighting.
The basking area should have 105*-110*F and the cool side of the tank in the 85* range. This is important for digestion and passing of stool. If the temps are not correct, this can also cause a problem and the Dragon will go off food. I suggest a digital probe thermometer because the stick on can be off as much as 20* either way.
You need to have 2 lights, a day time basking bulb as well as a UVB. I recommend Reptisun 10.0 and UVB lights do not put out heat. The UVB bulb is needed to stop Metabolic Bone Disease. The UVB needs to be changed every 6 months. If the UVB light is not strong enough, and you are not giving a calcium supplement, that can also cause the issue with the legs.
The UVB should be a tube type. Coil UVB bulbs can injure the eyes.
Compact UVB problems: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-info.htm This should not be giving off a lot of heat, but UVB rays.
You should be feeding Collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, escarole and curly endives. Butternut squash and various berries are great for a treat. TheVeggies should be put in fresh daily, and done about an hour after lights on. They need 20% veggies daily and 80% live prey under a year of age and over a year the percentages reverse.
The live prey should include live crickets, silk worms, roaches, goliath worms and phoenix worms.The dead prey and canned prey looses the nutritional value and is high in chitin which is the outer shells and can cause a blockage.
Super worms and wax worms are like giving the Dragon candy. All veggies and prey should be dusted with calcium daily 5 days a week and vitamins 2 days a week. The UVB and calcium work together.
The leg issue and tail issue may be retained shed that has cut off circulation, a lack of calcium, bullying, injury from one of the other Dragons. At this point the Dragon does need to have a hands on exam. If the problem is Metabolic Bone Disease, or injury it does need to be addressed by a Herp Vet. If you supply a State I can locate one for you.
My suggestion would be to separate the Dragons. Especially the male from the females. A male will overbreed the females and if that happens if can actaully shorten the live of the females. Egg laying depletes the body of calcium.
I would also start some type of calcium supplement asap. This is a link for good veggies to give the Dragons the best diet possible: http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutritionframeset.html
Please let me know if you would like me to locate a Herp Vet for you.
I am going to give you my complete care sheet. The recovery will depend on what has caused the damage. In some cases recovery can be complete with the proper care. The Herp Vet can determine the cause and then treatment can be done. This is a linkk for Herp Vets: http://www.anapsid.org/vets/indiana.html You may have to travel a bit, but well worth it to have the dragon seen.
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
1. 0-3 months- baby
2. 3-12 months-juvenile
months- sub adult
4. 18 months + -adult
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length
of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he
will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your
beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80
degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet
store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended.
2. A basking type light
that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth
to digest food & thrive.
Babies: Warm basking log: 105-125 degrees F
Cool side: 85-90
Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115
Cool side: 80-85
temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most
accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during
the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a
form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights
should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available
during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a
day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your
dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie
is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm
water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can
move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath
enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between
dragons too if bathing more than one.
If you have any further questions feel free to ask. I like to
start people off with proper husbandry and then see if I can further
fruits and Vegetables
Walnut shell Graphic: http://mrskingsbioweb.com/beardeddragngrossanatomy.htm
sexing bearded Dragons: http://repticzone.com/articles/sexingbeardeddragons.html
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