Are the Dragons housed together?
How old are the Dragons?
Can you tell me about the set up?
Heat source and temp?
UVB light? How old? Type coil or tube? Strength?
Temps in the enclosure and how measured?
You have some husbandry issues which can be causing the Dragons the problems you are seeing. The sand can cause some major issues with a Dragon.
This will give you an idea about Sand as a substrate: http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/?page=3
I suggest using a solid substrate like tile, cage carpet, slate or paper. Sand can also cause skin problems and corneal ulcers in the eyes.
The basking area should have 105*-110*F and the cool side of the tank in the 85* range. This is important for digestion and passing of stool. If the temps are not
correct, this can also cause a problem.
You need to have 2 lights, a day time basking bulb(not a red light heat bulb) as well as a UVB. I recommend a reptisun 10.0 and UVB lights do not put out heat. The UVB bulb is needed to stop Metabolic Bone Disease. The UVB needs to be changed every 6 months.
The UVB should be a tube type. Coil UVB bulbs can injure the eyes.
Compact UVB problems: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-info.htm This should not be giving off a lot of heat, but UVB rays.
The UVB bulb should not have any plastic between it and the Dragon, it needs to run the length of the tank and be no more than 12" from the Dragon. Both lights should run daily for 12-14 hours a day.
You should be feeding finely chopped Collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion
greens, escarole and curly endives. Butternut squash and various berries are great for a treat. The Veggies should be put in fresh daily, and done about an hour after lights on. They need 80% veggies daily and 20% live prey over a year of age.
The live prey should include crickets, silk worms, roaches, goliath worms and phoenix worms.The canned prey looses the nutritional value and is high in chitin which is the outer shells and can cause a blockage.
Super worms and wax worms are like giving the Dragon candy. All veggies and prey should be dusted with calcium daily 5 days a week and vitamins 2 days a week.
For now we need to give the Dragon a soak in 50/50 warm water and plain Dioralyte to prevent dehydration. Please soak at least 30 mins. You need to get a UVB light replaced as that can also cause what you are seeing. I suggest a Reptisun 10.0 tube.
I do suggest a Herp Vet visit thelp rule out a parasite issue. I am also giving you my care sheet to help with the husbandry. This UK Dragon Vets: http://www.ukbeardeddragons.co.uk/vet%20directory.htm and these are Herp Vets: http://www.livefoods.co.uk/Vets.php
The Dragons are acting like they want to brumate, but it is early in the season for that, so my concern is they do need to be checked out to see what is going on with blood and a fecal hands on by a Herp Vet.
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
1. 0-3 months- baby
2. 3-12 months-juvenile
months- sub adult
4. 18 months + -adult
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length
of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he
will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your
beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80
degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet
store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended.
2. A basking type light
that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth
to digest food & thrive.
Babies: Warm basking log: 105-125 degrees F
Cool side: 85-90
Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115
Cool side: 80-85
temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most
accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during
the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a
form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights
should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available
during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a
day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your
dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie
is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm
water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can
move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath
enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between
dragons too if bathing more than one.
If you have any further questions feel free to ask. I like to
start people off with proper husbandry and then see if I can further
fruits and Vegetables
Walnut shell Graphic: http://mrskingsbioweb.com/beardeddragngrossanatomy.htm
sexing bearded Dragons: http://repticzone.com/articles/sexingbeardeddragons.html
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