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Answered in 8 hours by:
7/10/2012
Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist
Category: Reptile
Satisfied Customers: 14,096
Experience: Have owned turtles, snakes, amphibians, and lizards. Study and provide habitat for wild herps.
VerifiedHello,
I apologize that no one has responded to your question sooner. Different experts come online at various times. I just came online and saw your question.
I suspect you got your information on care from a pet store. Most people do. While we should be able to rely on such information, unfortunately, it is often wrong. They sell people the wrong lighting, advise the wrong foods, and often don't know the correct temperatures for the various reptiles. After months or years of things not being quite right, the animal becomes ill. Your female turtle is in trouble, with multiple problems right now.
I don't think she has laid clutches of eggs, but rather, has been retaining eggs because she doesn't feel she has a suitable nesting site. Your turtle almost certainly has more eggs inside her. She will probably retain them as long as possible while she seeks an appropriate nesting site. This retention can cause infection, organ damage, and even death. Symptoms of a problem may include not laying eggs, laying only a few eggs, lethargy, pacing, lack of appetite, prolapse, digging motions, and kicking of the back legs.
You'll need to provide her with a nesting site. For a slider, that would be a 50/50 mix of sand and organic compost, about 12 inches deep. The bigger the area you can give her, the better. You may have to move her to a preformed pond or a child's wading pool to make room for everything she needs. Be sure that you provide UVB light and a basking light no matter where you put her. This site has very detailed instructions for making nesting sites, including photos:
http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/Nestsites.htm
At this one, you can read more about egg-laying and egg retention:
http://www.redearslider.com/reproduction.html
If your turtle does not lay more eggs (she may have as many as twenty), that is an indication that she needs help. You'll need to take her to a reptile vet. X-rays will help determine the nature of the problem. The vet will decide whether it's appropriate to try an injection of a hormone that will induce egg-laying, or if surgery is necessary. Here is a directory of reptile vets:
http://www.anapsid.org/vets/index.html#vetlist
Actually, I strongly recommend a vet visit even if the turtle does lay more eggs. The bulging out of the shell is most likely not due to overweight. a turtle that is overfed grows faster, and that includes the shell, not just the body. The swelling could be related to egg retention or it may indicate kidney failure or another disease of internal organs. It may also be the result of Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). A soft shell is only one symptom of this horrible disease. It's extremely important that you buy an additional light that produces UVB rays. A Reptisun 10.0 is a good brand that does. If you choose another brand be absolutely certain it provides UVB rays. Don't take the word of pet store personnel, but read it for yourself. Full-spectrum, DayGlo, daylight, UV, and UVA are NOT the same thing. I'm putting a lot of emphasis on this because it's crucial to a reptile’s health. Without this light, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) will certainly develop because they won't be able to produce vitamin D. Vitamin supplements are not a good replacement for the proper lighting. MBD causes a very slow and painful death. UVB bulbs must be replaced every six months as they lose their effectiveness after that, even though they may still look fine. Light that comes through a window isn't sufficient because the glass filters out the UVB rays. The turtles also need a source of calcium. you cna place a cuttlebone (sold in the bird departments of pet stores) in their tank so they can ingest the amount they need.
Regardless of the cause of the body swelling, it indicates a very serious problem.
To make sure you now have correct information on care, I'm including my slider care sheet after this post. If you have more questions, let me know by clicking on REPLY. I hope Mrs. Tuttle will reach a full recovery.
Anna
If you would like any additional information or have more questions please don’t hesitate to ask! There’s no additional fee for such follow-up questions.
Please remember to only rate my answer when you are 100% satisfied. If you feel the need to click either of the two faces on the left, please stop, and instead reply to me via the REPLY button with the issue you have. I will be happy to continue further and do everything I can to provide you with the service you seek. Please note that you are rating the completeness and accuracy of the answer and the quality of service you received, not how happy you are with the actual information provided.
Thank you.
SLIDER TURTLE CARE SHEET
Well-cared for sliders can live 30 years or more.
The Tank
It's recommended that a baby slider have at least a 15 gallon tank. By the time the turtle is 3-4 years old, it will need a 60 gallon tank, so it's best to get the biggest you can in the beginning. Two turtles need at least 90 gallons.You can also use a large RubberMaid tote. That's not as pretty as a tank, but costs a lot less. Set up the tank so there's a land area and a water area. Put the basking light at one end so the whole tank doesn’t get too hot. You want the water to be about twice as deep as the turtle is long. If the turtle is two inches long, you'll want four inches of water.
Temperatures and Basking Area
Turtles need certain types of lighting and need to be warm. Air and water that are not warm enough can lead to fungal and respiratory infections and unhealthy shells. Turtles must have a basking area where they can get out of the water, dry off, and bask in very warm light. The ambient air temperature in the tank should be around 75 *F (24*C) , with the basking area warmer still. Over the basking area there should be some sort of lamp that will take a 40-60 watt incandescent bulb (or you can buy a ceramic light fixture made just for reptiles). If you live in an area that has farm stores, you can buy a metal light fixture made to keep baby chicks warm for just a few dollars. Don't buy the accompanying bulb, however. You need an ordinary incandescent bulb in the basking light. Hardware stores sell similar fixtures as work lights. The basking area should be kept at 85-90*F (29 to 32*C). Use a digital probe thermometer to be sure. You can adjust the temperature by raising or lowering the light fixture.The lights that come with the covers on aquariums are not suitable for turtles. You'll also need a submersible aquarium heater that will keep the water 78-82*F (26 to 28*C).
UVB Light
It's extremely important that you buy an additional light that produces UVB rays. A Reptisun 10.0 is a good brand that does. If you choose another brand be absolutely certain it provides UVB rays. Don't take the word of pet store personnel, but read it for yourself. Full-spectrum, DayGlo, sunGlo, UV, or UVA are not the same thing. I'm putting a lot of emphasis on this because it's crucial to your turtle's health. Without this light, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) will develop because your turtle won't be able to produce vitamin D. Vitamin supplements are not a good replacement for the proper lighting. MBD causes a very slow and painful death.UVB bulbs must be replaced every six months as they lose their effectiveness after that, even though they may still look fine. Light that comes through a window isn't sufficient because the glass filters out most of the rays turtles need to stay healthy. To prevent MBD, turtles also need calcium. The easiest way to provide it is to place a cuttlebone in the tank. Cuttlebones are sold in bird departments of pet stores.
Filtration
Turtles are very sensitive to water quality. Even if you change the water every day, it can still contain harmful chemicals. A good filtration system is essential. Water changes are also needed even with a filter. If the tank is too small, no filter can keep up with the amount of waste that turtles produce.
Feeding
Feeding is an area where pet stores often give out bad information. Commercial food should make up only 1/4 of the diet. Animal products (cooked meat, earthworms, canned cat food) should make up another 1/4. The remaining half should be plant foods (dark lettuce like romaine, bits of strawberry or melon, etc.). Hatchlings should be fed every day. Older turtles should be fed 3 times per week. Overfeeding can lead to gout and kidney failure.
For Further Reading
This is among the most reputable sites on turtles.
http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/Care/caresheet-red_ear_slider.htm
I apologize that no one has responded to your question sooner. Different experts come online at various times. I just came online and saw your question.
I suspect you got your information on care from a pet store. Most people do. While we should be able to rely on such information, unfortunately, it is often wrong. They sell people the wrong lighting, advise the wrong foods, and often don't know the correct temperatures for the various reptiles. After months or years of things not being quite right, the animal becomes ill. Your female turtle is in trouble, with multiple problems right now.
I don't think she has laid clutches of eggs, but rather, has been retaining eggs because she doesn't feel she has a suitable nesting site. Your turtle almost certainly has more eggs inside her. She will probably retain them as long as possible while she seeks an appropriate nesting site. This retention can cause infection, organ damage, and even death. Symptoms of a problem may include not laying eggs, laying only a few eggs, lethargy, pacing, lack of appetite, prolapse, digging motions, and kicking of the back legs.
You'll need to provide her with a nesting site. For a slider, that would be a 50/50 mix of sand and organic compost, about 12 inches deep. The bigger the area you can give her, the better. You may have to move her to a preformed pond or a child's wading pool to make room for everything she needs. Be sure that you provide UVB light and a basking light no matter where you put her. This site has very detailed instructions for making nesting sites, including photos:
http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/Nestsites.htm
At this one, you can read more about egg-laying and egg retention:
http://www.redearslider.com/reproduction.html
If your turtle does not lay more eggs (she may have as many as twenty), that is an indication that she needs help. You'll need to take her to a reptile vet. X-rays will help determine the nature of the problem. The vet will decide whether it's appropriate to try an injection of a hormone that will induce egg-laying, or if surgery is necessary. Here is a directory of reptile vets:
http://www.anapsid.org/vets/index.html#vetlist
Actually, I strongly recommend a vet visit even if the turtle does lay more eggs. The bulging out of the shell is most likely not due to overweight. a turtle that is overfed grows faster, and that includes the shell, not just the body. The swelling could be related to egg retention or it may indicate kidney failure or another disease of internal organs. It may also be the result of Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). A soft shell is only one symptom of this horrible disease. It's extremely important that you buy an additional light that produces UVB rays. A Reptisun 10.0 is a good brand that does. If you choose another brand be absolutely certain it provides UVB rays. Don't take the word of pet store personnel, but read it for yourself. Full-spectrum, DayGlo, daylight, UV, and UVA are NOT the same thing. I'm putting a lot of emphasis on this because it's crucial to a reptile’s health. Without this light, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) will certainly develop because they won't be able to produce vitamin D. Vitamin supplements are not a good replacement for the proper lighting. MBD causes a very slow and painful death. UVB bulbs must be replaced every six months as they lose their effectiveness after that, even though they may still look fine. Light that comes through a window isn't sufficient because the glass filters out the UVB rays. The turtles also need a source of calcium. you cna place a cuttlebone (sold in the bird departments of pet stores) in their tank so they can ingest the amount they need.
Regardless of the cause of the body swelling, it indicates a very serious problem.
To make sure you now have correct information on care, I'm including my slider care sheet after this post. If you have more questions, let me know by clicking on REPLY. I hope Mrs. Tuttle will reach a full recovery.
Anna
If you would like any additional information or have more questions please don’t hesitate to ask! There’s no additional fee for such follow-up questions.
Please remember to only rate my answer when you are 100% satisfied. If you feel the need to click either of the two faces on the left, please stop, and instead reply to me via the REPLY button with the issue you have. I will be happy to continue further and do everything I can to provide you with the service you seek. Please note that you are rating the completeness and accuracy of the answer and the quality of service you received, not how happy you are with the actual information provided.
Thank you.
SLIDER TURTLE CARE SHEET
Well-cared for sliders can live 30 years or more.
The Tank
It's recommended that a baby slider have at least a 15 gallon tank. By the time the turtle is 3-4 years old, it will need a 60 gallon tank, so it's best to get the biggest you can in the beginning. Two turtles need at least 90 gallons.You can also use a large RubberMaid tote. That's not as pretty as a tank, but costs a lot less. Set up the tank so there's a land area and a water area. Put the basking light at one end so the whole tank doesn’t get too hot. You want the water to be about twice as deep as the turtle is long. If the turtle is two inches long, you'll want four inches of water.
Temperatures and Basking Area
Turtles need certain types of lighting and need to be warm. Air and water that are not warm enough can lead to fungal and respiratory infections and unhealthy shells. Turtles must have a basking area where they can get out of the water, dry off, and bask in very warm light. The ambient air temperature in the tank should be around 75 *F (24*C) , with the basking area warmer still. Over the basking area there should be some sort of lamp that will take a 40-60 watt incandescent bulb (or you can buy a ceramic light fixture made just for reptiles). If you live in an area that has farm stores, you can buy a metal light fixture made to keep baby chicks warm for just a few dollars. Don't buy the accompanying bulb, however. You need an ordinary incandescent bulb in the basking light. Hardware stores sell similar fixtures as work lights. The basking area should be kept at 85-90*F (29 to 32*C). Use a digital probe thermometer to be sure. You can adjust the temperature by raising or lowering the light fixture.The lights that come with the covers on aquariums are not suitable for turtles. You'll also need a submersible aquarium heater that will keep the water 78-82*F (26 to 28*C).
UVB Light
It's extremely important that you buy an additional light that produces UVB rays. A Reptisun 10.0 is a good brand that does. If you choose another brand be absolutely certain it provides UVB rays. Don't take the word of pet store personnel, but read it for yourself. Full-spectrum, DayGlo, sunGlo, UV, or UVA are not the same thing. I'm putting a lot of emphasis on this because it's crucial to your turtle's health. Without this light, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) will develop because your turtle won't be able to produce vitamin D. Vitamin supplements are not a good replacement for the proper lighting. MBD causes a very slow and painful death.UVB bulbs must be replaced every six months as they lose their effectiveness after that, even though they may still look fine. Light that comes through a window isn't sufficient because the glass filters out most of the rays turtles need to stay healthy. To prevent MBD, turtles also need calcium. The easiest way to provide it is to place a cuttlebone in the tank. Cuttlebones are sold in bird departments of pet stores.
Filtration
Turtles are very sensitive to water quality. Even if you change the water every day, it can still contain harmful chemicals. A good filtration system is essential. Water changes are also needed even with a filter. If the tank is too small, no filter can keep up with the amount of waste that turtles produce.
Feeding
Feeding is an area where pet stores often give out bad information. Commercial food should make up only 1/4 of the diet. Animal products (cooked meat, earthworms, canned cat food) should make up another 1/4. The remaining half should be plant foods (dark lettuce like romaine, bits of strawberry or melon, etc.). Hatchlings should be fed every day. Older turtles should be fed 3 times per week. Overfeeding can lead to gout and kidney failure.
For Further Reading
This is among the most reputable sites on turtles.
http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/Care/caresheet-red_ear_slider.htm
You're welcome. Just make the cuttlebone available at all times. Here are two more resources for vets:
http://www.nytts.org/nytts/helpnet.htm
http://www.reptileveterinarians.com/
If you still can't find one close by, contact a local vet to see if he or she would be willing to work with a reptile vet by phone consultation.
If you provide a nesting site with 12 inches of soil, get a UVB light, and provide cuttlebone, then you are doing all you can on your own. There is no first aid measure to help with the swollen body. I hope the steps above will help her to lay more eggs and that she'll be fine.
I have to leave for an appointment now, but I'll check back when I return to see if you need anything else.
Anna
http://www.nytts.org/nytts/helpnet.htm
http://www.reptileveterinarians.com/
If you still can't find one close by, contact a local vet to see if he or she would be willing to work with a reptile vet by phone consultation.
If you provide a nesting site with 12 inches of soil, get a UVB light, and provide cuttlebone, then you are doing all you can on your own. There is no first aid measure to help with the swollen body. I hope the steps above will help her to lay more eggs and that she'll be fine.
I have to leave for an appointment now, but I'll check back when I return to see if you need anything else.
Anna
Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist
Category: Reptile
Satisfied Customers: 14,096
Experience: Have owned turtles, snakes, amphibians, and lizards. Study and provide habitat for wild herps.
VerifiedAnna and 87 other Reptile Specialists are ready to help you
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Disclaimer: Information in questions, answers, and other posts on this site ("Posts") comes from individual users, not JustAnswer; JustAnswer is not responsible for Posts. Posts are for general information, are not intended to substitute for informed professional advice (medical, legal, veterinary, financial, etc.), or to establish a professional-client relationship. The site and services are provided "as is" with no warranty or representations by JustAnswer regarding the qualifications of Experts. To see what credentials have been verified by a third-party service, please click on the "Verified" symbol in some Experts' profiles. JustAnswer is not intended or designed for EMERGENCY questions which should be directed immediately by telephone or in-person to qualified professionals.
