Can you tell me more about the lighting? What type of UVB bulb are they using? Is it a tube or coil bulb? Name? Strength? How old is the bulb?
Do you feed any supplements?
What type of diet? Prey/Veggies?
10 watt halogen tube lamp - Super pet
50 watt red lamp bulb - Repti zoo
60 watt white lamp bulb - phillips
I am not sure how old any of them are- I suspect they are max 8 months old as they probably came with the whole tank set up.
He gets calcium powder and multi- vit powder, I'm not sure how often as I can't get hold of my friend.
As far as I know he eats veggies along with crickets and meal worms however he apparently has not been eating well lately but my friend thinks that is stress induced as he travelled 5 hours the other day. Also he had a brother who died a few months ago - not too sure why- but from what I gathered he had stopped eating for weeks and died of starvation.
At the moment the substrate is a towel as he kept getting his toe nails caught on the astroturf and couldn't get a grip on newspaper. Fine sand will replace the towel when he goes back to his owner I was told- he says sand is not practical for travelling.
I'm not sure if this means anything but he has no logs or sticks to climb on in his tank- just a flat stone and his bowls. Could it be his muscles are not well developed?
You have some husbandry issues which can be causing the Dragon the problems you are seeing. You are not using any UVB bulb. A UVB is either a coil or tube and supplies UVB rays and not heat. What you are using are all for heat and basking, but not supplying UVB Rays needed to Metabolize calcium. http://www.anapsid.org/uvtable.html
You need to have a day time basking bulb as well as a UVB. I recommend a reptisun 10.0 and UVB lights do not put out heat. The UVB bulb is needed to stop Metabolic Bone Disease. The UVB needs to be changed every 6 months.
The UVB should be a tube type.
Coil UVB bulbs can injure the eyes.
Compact UVB problems: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-info.htm
The UVB bulb should not have any plastic between it and the Dragon, it needs to run the length of the tank and be no more than 12" from the Dragon. Both lights should run daily for 12-14 hours a day.
The basking area should have 110*-115*F and the cool side of the tank in the 85* range. This is imporatnt for digestion and passing of stool. If the temps are not correct, this can also cause a problem.
The diet is incorrect too. You should be feeding Collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, escarole and curly endives. Butternut squash and various berries are great for a treat. The Corn is sugar as well as the peas and the Spinach binds calcium. The Veggies should be put in fresh daily, and done about an hour after lights on. They need 80% veggies daily and 20% live prey until the drgon hits a year and then at that point we reverse the percentages. The live prey should include crickets, silk worms, roaches, goliath worms and phoenix worms. Super worms and wax worms are like giving the Dragon candy. All veggies and prey should be dusted with calcium daily 5 days a week and vitamins 2 days a week.
The Dragon is showing signs of Metabolic Bone Disease.This needs to be I suggest having the Dragon in for a calcium draw as this can only get worse if not addressed asap.
As far as Sand, do not use loose substrates. Please see the links in the care sheet about sand and loose substrates.
For now we need to give him a soak in 50/50 warm water and plain Pedialyte to prevent dehydration. Please soak at least 30 mins. If you supply a State or Country , I cn locate a Herp Vet for you. I am also giving you my care sheet to help with the husbandry.
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
1. 0-3 months- baby
2. 3-12 months-juvenile
3. 12-18 months- sub adult
4. 18 months + -adult
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended.
2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.
Babies: Warm basking log: 105-125 degrees F
Cool side: 85-90
Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115
Cool side: 80-85
Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.
If you have any further questions feel free to ask. I like to start people off with proper husbandry and then see if I can further assist. http://www.repticzone.com/articles/fruitsandvegetablesrated.html This is for fruits and Vegetables
Walnut shell Graphic: http://mrskingsbioweb.com/beardeddragngrossanatomy.htm
Sand Substrate can cause some major issues with a Dragon. This will give you an idea about Sand as a substrate: http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/?page=3 sand I suggest using a solid substrate like tile, cage carpet, slate or paper. Sand can also cause skin problems and cormeal ulcers in the eyes.
sexing bearded Dragons: http://repticzone.com/articles/sexingbeardeddragons.html
Thank you so so much,
I suspected as much- but I wasn't sure- I would really appreciate the name of a herp vet- I live in the city of Pietermaritzburg, province KwaZulu Natal, country South Africa. Our next closest city is Durban.
I will show this to my friend but I am afraid he won't take kindly to this so a vet should convince him.
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