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Answered in 16 minutes by:
7/17/2011
Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist
Category: Reptile
Satisfied Customers: 14,719
Experience: Have owned turtles, snakes, amphibians, and lizards. Study and provide habitat for wild herps.
VerifiedHello,
Some additional information will help me to answer your question.
What brand and size of UVB light do you have? Is the bulb a coil or a straight tube? How old is the bulb?
What are the temperatures in the basking area and on the cool side of the cage?
What do you feed besides crickets?
Have you noticed her twitching or trembling?
Thank you.
Anna
Some additional information will help me to answer your question.
What brand and size of UVB light do you have? Is the bulb a coil or a straight tube? How old is the bulb?
What are the temperatures in the basking area and on the cool side of the cage?
What do you feed besides crickets?
Have you noticed her twitching or trembling?
Thank you.
Anna
Thank you for waiting. I suspect you got your original information on care from a pet store. You should be able to count on such information, but unfortunately, it is usually wrong. I can tell that you've tried to provide a wonderful life for your beardie, but you didn't have the right information to be able to do that. To be honest, I'm surprised you've been able to keep her for 5 years without problems until now. If you want to restore her to health, there are some important changes you'll need to make.
Your dragon most likely does have MBD. You can feed her all the calcium in the world, but without UVB light and a proper temperatures, her body cannot metabolize it. Window glass is made with filters to keep out UVB rays. It's extremely important that you buy a light that produces UVB rays. A Reptisun 10.0 is a good brand that does. If you choose another brand be absolutely certain it provides UVB rays. Don't take the word of pet store personnel, but read it for yourself. Full-spectrum, DayGlo, daylight, UV, and UVA are NOT the same thing. I'm putting a lot of emphasis on this because it's crucial to a reptile’s health. Without this light, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) will develop because they won't be able to produce vitamin D. Vitamin supplements are not a good replacement for the proper lighting. MBD causes a very slow and painful death. UVB bulbs must be replaced every six months as they lose their effectiveness after that, even though they may still look fine. Your beardie needs to be exposed to the UVB light for 12 to 14 hours per day. If you can't get her to stay in a cage or tank, you may have to find a way to place the light over the spot where she looks out the window.
Heat mats are not a good source of heat for dragons. They don't register heat on the undersides of their bodies, and need warmth from above. While she's at the sunny window, she may be warm enough. The basking area should be 105*F to 115*F. Night time temperatures should be allowed to drop into the 70*s, so she doesn't need additional heat at night. That temperature drop is important for good health, so it would be better not to have her on heat at night. Because beardies are cold blooded, no body heat is given off, so being wrapped in a towel doesn't keep her warmer.
Your beardie's diet is also inadequate. Young beardies thrive on a diet of mostly prey insects, but at age 5, a beardie’s diet should be about 80% greens and 20% prey. It would be a good idea to introduce her to other produce. Romaine lettuce is OK, but it's not good to stick with just one type of greens. Variety is very important. Keep trying different ones, and don’t quit offering it if she’s picky.Most dragons will eventually begin eating the variety. You can encourage her by putting a little raspberry baby food on the greens - they usually view that as a treat. This site has great information on what vegetables to feed, and how often. I recommend it for all dragon owners.
http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html
I'm going to give you a first aid step to take. Buy some unflavored Pedialyte (yes, the kind for human infants), and prepare a shallow warm (100*F) bath consisting of 1/2 water and 1/2 Pedialyte. You can also stir in some calcium powder as best you can. Reptiles can absorb fluids and nutrients through their vents. Soak your dragon for about 20 to 30 minutes twice a day. Be sure to supervise closely.
If a vet diagnoses MBD, he/she will probably prescribe a special calcium, but it will not do enough good, without UVB light.
I’m sending along a care sheet, courtesy of Joan, another of our experts. Joan has many years experience keeping and rescuing beardies. I suggest that you use the care sheet as a check list to provide the best possible care for your beardie. If you have more questions, just let me know by clicking on REPLY. The care sheet follows.
Anna
(If you find my answer helpful, please click on the green ACCEPT button. Thank you.)
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
* Bearded dragons should be housed alone.
* Ages of bearded dragons follow these guidelines:
1. 0-3 months- baby
2. 3-12 months-juvenile
3. 12-18 months- sub adult
4. 18 months + -adult
* Bearded dragons live as much as 10-12 years if well cared for properly.
* Bearded dragons have a very good temperament as long as they are cared for and handled.
* When you bring your baby home, it may be quite stressful to him/her to get use to new home. May not eat well the first 2-3 days. They may not need to be handled the first 2-3 days if skittish and nervous.
* Never use sand or any other type of loose substrate: Loose substrates can cause impaction (not being able to go Poop) in all ages of bearded dragons- they lick their environment to explore .It is difficult to keep germ free and clean. Ceramic tile, newspaper, non adhesive shelf liner and reptile carpet is what is most recommended. Use paper towels for the little one and as they get bigger you can change to something else.
* Be sure you keep your beardies home as clean as you can. Clean up by spot cleaning when needed. Clean & sanitize entire tank every 10-14 days. A good cleaning solution is a 20% bleach solution. If you choose to use wood climbing branches etc, these should be soaked in the bleach solution and rinsed well. Then bake in 250 degree oven for 30 minutes.
* Need a climbing accessory: to bask and to warm up under basking heat light and lower branches or platforms to come down and cool off.
* A hide of some sort like a cave.
* A food dish and water dish.
* Plastic spray bottle
* Can use artificial plants when they get older- 3 months or so.
* Digital thermostat and/or temp gun
* Tank size: Minimal size tank for this age is 20 gallon long
* Minimal size for older beardie: 4 months of age: 40 gallon breeder is the minimal tank size for older dragon. Can divide a 40 gallon breeder for a smaller dragon. Must have two lights for your beardie.
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended.
2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.
* Lights should be on for 12-14 hours each day. Follow the seasons and light timers are a great luxury if you can get them. 6 dollars at Lowe's. No lights or warmth needed at night unless your temperatures get below 62 degrees. If they do, there are ceramic heat emitters that put out no light, only heat. Use these at night if temperatures fall below 62 degrees.
* Temperatures have to be kept at the following ranges during the day:
Babies: Warm basking log: 110-125 degrees F (43.5* to 51.5*C)
Cool side: 85-90 (29.5* to 32*C)
Adults: Warm basking spot: 105-115F (40.5*C to 46*C)
Cool side: 80-85F (27*C to 29*C)
Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
* Feeding a Beardie: Beardies eat live prey consisting of crickets, roaches and/or silkworms. Never feed any size of mice to your beardie. Never feed mealworms. They also must be given greens/veggies everyday. The younger they are the more live prey they should have. As they grow older the live prey decreases and the veggies/greens should be the major part of diet. Never feed anything bigger, than the space between your beardie's eyes. This includes both live prey and pieces of veggies/greens,
* A chopper or food processor is a huge help when your beardie is small. Always offer greens and veggies: collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, cabbage, red cabbage, fresh green beans, yellow summer squash, butternut squash, sweet potato, cactus pad. Apricots, strawberries, apples, blueberries, raspberries, cantaloupe- fruits are treats only.
* What is live prey? The easiest and less expensive live prey is crickets when you have a young or first beardie. The other live preys you can feed are silkworms, and special types of roaches. You can learn to raise your own live prey. Treats can be waxworms, super worms, and tomato/goliath worms. You may find that ordering live prey from the internet is the way to go..... Never leave live prey or greens/veggies in tank overnight. . Crickets can bite your beardie when sleeping.
* Babies should get 80% live prey, and 20 % greens/veggies. But since the greens/veggies are a must when they are older, get them eating their greens/veggies very early. Give greens/veggies in small pieces everyday. You should eventually start decreasing your older dragon's protein intake when they are about a year to 15 months old. Their protein intake decreases to 20 % live prey and 80% veggies/greens.
* A baby can eat 50-75 crix a day. Never feed crix or veggies bigger than the space between your beardie's eyes. Use this guide when buying crix or chopping your greens/veggies.
* You must provide calcium dust without D3 and multivitamin dust for your beardie. You should dust the live prey with calcium one time a day, and vitamins 3 times a week. Just collect your live prey into baggie and add enough calcium and vitamin to dust them. Then pour a few at a time into your tank. Some people feed their beardie in a separate tank so that no crickets can hide. Or some take out "furniture" from tank and feed this way. As they get older, 4-5 months or so dust live prey with calcium 3 times a week.
* Feed the veggies/ greens 1st thing in morning after lights on for one hour at least. Then after 2-3 hours offer crix. Then freshen green/veggies. Then give more crix. Make sure after last crix feeding there is at least 1-2 hours of lights so that they can digest their food before night time.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.
Your dragon most likely does have MBD. You can feed her all the calcium in the world, but without UVB light and a proper temperatures, her body cannot metabolize it. Window glass is made with filters to keep out UVB rays. It's extremely important that you buy a light that produces UVB rays. A Reptisun 10.0 is a good brand that does. If you choose another brand be absolutely certain it provides UVB rays. Don't take the word of pet store personnel, but read it for yourself. Full-spectrum, DayGlo, daylight, UV, and UVA are NOT the same thing. I'm putting a lot of emphasis on this because it's crucial to a reptile’s health. Without this light, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) will develop because they won't be able to produce vitamin D. Vitamin supplements are not a good replacement for the proper lighting. MBD causes a very slow and painful death. UVB bulbs must be replaced every six months as they lose their effectiveness after that, even though they may still look fine. Your beardie needs to be exposed to the UVB light for 12 to 14 hours per day. If you can't get her to stay in a cage or tank, you may have to find a way to place the light over the spot where she looks out the window.
Heat mats are not a good source of heat for dragons. They don't register heat on the undersides of their bodies, and need warmth from above. While she's at the sunny window, she may be warm enough. The basking area should be 105*F to 115*F. Night time temperatures should be allowed to drop into the 70*s, so she doesn't need additional heat at night. That temperature drop is important for good health, so it would be better not to have her on heat at night. Because beardies are cold blooded, no body heat is given off, so being wrapped in a towel doesn't keep her warmer.
Your beardie's diet is also inadequate. Young beardies thrive on a diet of mostly prey insects, but at age 5, a beardie’s diet should be about 80% greens and 20% prey. It would be a good idea to introduce her to other produce. Romaine lettuce is OK, but it's not good to stick with just one type of greens. Variety is very important. Keep trying different ones, and don’t quit offering it if she’s picky.Most dragons will eventually begin eating the variety. You can encourage her by putting a little raspberry baby food on the greens - they usually view that as a treat. This site has great information on what vegetables to feed, and how often. I recommend it for all dragon owners.
http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html
I'm going to give you a first aid step to take. Buy some unflavored Pedialyte (yes, the kind for human infants), and prepare a shallow warm (100*F) bath consisting of 1/2 water and 1/2 Pedialyte. You can also stir in some calcium powder as best you can. Reptiles can absorb fluids and nutrients through their vents. Soak your dragon for about 20 to 30 minutes twice a day. Be sure to supervise closely.
If a vet diagnoses MBD, he/she will probably prescribe a special calcium, but it will not do enough good, without UVB light.
I’m sending along a care sheet, courtesy of Joan, another of our experts. Joan has many years experience keeping and rescuing beardies. I suggest that you use the care sheet as a check list to provide the best possible care for your beardie. If you have more questions, just let me know by clicking on REPLY. The care sheet follows.
Anna
(If you find my answer helpful, please click on the green ACCEPT button. Thank you.)
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
* Bearded dragons should be housed alone.
* Ages of bearded dragons follow these guidelines:
1. 0-3 months- baby
2. 3-12 months-juvenile
3. 12-18 months- sub adult
4. 18 months + -adult
* Bearded dragons live as much as 10-12 years if well cared for properly.
* Bearded dragons have a very good temperament as long as they are cared for and handled.
* When you bring your baby home, it may be quite stressful to him/her to get use to new home. May not eat well the first 2-3 days. They may not need to be handled the first 2-3 days if skittish and nervous.
* Never use sand or any other type of loose substrate: Loose substrates can cause impaction (not being able to go Poop) in all ages of bearded dragons- they lick their environment to explore .It is difficult to keep germ free and clean. Ceramic tile, newspaper, non adhesive shelf liner and reptile carpet is what is most recommended. Use paper towels for the little one and as they get bigger you can change to something else.
* Be sure you keep your beardies home as clean as you can. Clean up by spot cleaning when needed. Clean & sanitize entire tank every 10-14 days. A good cleaning solution is a 20% bleach solution. If you choose to use wood climbing branches etc, these should be soaked in the bleach solution and rinsed well. Then bake in 250 degree oven for 30 minutes.
* Need a climbing accessory: to bask and to warm up under basking heat light and lower branches or platforms to come down and cool off.
* A hide of some sort like a cave.
* A food dish and water dish.
* Plastic spray bottle
* Can use artificial plants when they get older- 3 months or so.
* Digital thermostat and/or temp gun
* Tank size: Minimal size tank for this age is 20 gallon long
* Minimal size for older beardie: 4 months of age: 40 gallon breeder is the minimal tank size for older dragon. Can divide a 40 gallon breeder for a smaller dragon. Must have two lights for your beardie.
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended.
2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.
* Lights should be on for 12-14 hours each day. Follow the seasons and light timers are a great luxury if you can get them. 6 dollars at Lowe's. No lights or warmth needed at night unless your temperatures get below 62 degrees. If they do, there are ceramic heat emitters that put out no light, only heat. Use these at night if temperatures fall below 62 degrees.
* Temperatures have to be kept at the following ranges during the day:
Babies: Warm basking log: 110-125 degrees F (43.5* to 51.5*C)
Cool side: 85-90 (29.5* to 32*C)
Adults: Warm basking spot: 105-115F (40.5*C to 46*C)
Cool side: 80-85F (27*C to 29*C)
Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
* Feeding a Beardie: Beardies eat live prey consisting of crickets, roaches and/or silkworms. Never feed any size of mice to your beardie. Never feed mealworms. They also must be given greens/veggies everyday. The younger they are the more live prey they should have. As they grow older the live prey decreases and the veggies/greens should be the major part of diet. Never feed anything bigger, than the space between your beardie's eyes. This includes both live prey and pieces of veggies/greens,
* A chopper or food processor is a huge help when your beardie is small. Always offer greens and veggies: collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, cabbage, red cabbage, fresh green beans, yellow summer squash, butternut squash, sweet potato, cactus pad. Apricots, strawberries, apples, blueberries, raspberries, cantaloupe- fruits are treats only.
* What is live prey? The easiest and less expensive live prey is crickets when you have a young or first beardie. The other live preys you can feed are silkworms, and special types of roaches. You can learn to raise your own live prey. Treats can be waxworms, super worms, and tomato/goliath worms. You may find that ordering live prey from the internet is the way to go..... Never leave live prey or greens/veggies in tank overnight. . Crickets can bite your beardie when sleeping.
* Babies should get 80% live prey, and 20 % greens/veggies. But since the greens/veggies are a must when they are older, get them eating their greens/veggies very early. Give greens/veggies in small pieces everyday. You should eventually start decreasing your older dragon's protein intake when they are about a year to 15 months old. Their protein intake decreases to 20 % live prey and 80% veggies/greens.
* A baby can eat 50-75 crix a day. Never feed crix or veggies bigger than the space between your beardie's eyes. Use this guide when buying crix or chopping your greens/veggies.
* You must provide calcium dust without D3 and multivitamin dust for your beardie. You should dust the live prey with calcium one time a day, and vitamins 3 times a week. Just collect your live prey into baggie and add enough calcium and vitamin to dust them. Then pour a few at a time into your tank. Some people feed their beardie in a separate tank so that no crickets can hide. Or some take out "furniture" from tank and feed this way. As they get older, 4-5 months or so dust live prey with calcium 3 times a week.
* Feed the veggies/ greens 1st thing in morning after lights on for one hour at least. Then after 2-3 hours offer crix. Then freshen green/veggies. Then give more crix. Make sure after last crix feeding there is at least 1-2 hours of lights so that they can digest their food before night time.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.
Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist
Category: Reptile
Satisfied Customers: 14,719
Experience: Have owned turtles, snakes, amphibians, and lizards. Study and provide habitat for wild herps.
VerifiedAnna and 87 other Reptile Specialists are ready to help you
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Associate Veterinarian at Woodland West Animal Hospital
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