Hello and Happy New Year,
Can you tell me about your set up?
Temps? How measured?
How long has he been off food?
Hi thanks for getting back. This matter is important to me and I will be online for the rest of the evening. So would appreciate replies asap. Thanks.
Rexy is in a glass tank suitable for his size and recommended by the reptile shop where they were both purchased. There is a heat mat underneath on one side. The thermometer normally reads 20 degrees Celsius. It is not very humid but occasionally we do spray the inside with water mister. the floor of the tank is lined with carpet, also recommended by reptile shop.
He was last shedding about 2 weeks ago. We have been giving him warm baths to soften the skin around his toes which seem to be lingering. We have managed to get some of it off.
He has been off his food about 1 month, with an occasional cricket or locust getting in.
Rexy is only having calcium powder dusted on his food but since he's been off food, no calcium is getting in. He is not on any other supplements.
The reptile shop looked at him yesterday and said Rexy still has a nice fat tail which was a good sign but that they thought that calcium may be lacking and gave me vet details if needed.
Can you tell me if he is passing stool?
Is it loose? Is he passing Urates (white part of stool)?
Is the temp in the tank 20C?
Is the temp in the tank 20*C?
How is it measured?
Leopard Geckos will go off food if the temps are too low. The Temps should be 30*C or 86*F. Reptiles cannot thermoregulate without having a heat source. You may have to add overhead heat source to help get the Leo eating again. I suggest a Black light bulb as it will not disturb the Leo, but just supply heat. In the mean time please use a meat flavor baby food and mix the calcium in to it and drop on the snout. This should help get some food and calcium into the Leo. You can make a moist hide to aid with shedding. I will give you my care sheet to help with getting some issue fixed in the habitat. I am also going to give you a link for Herp Vets in the UK to have a fecal done to rule out a parasite issue. Joan
http://homepage.mac.com/exoticdvm/reptile/PhotoAlbum181.html Sand Impaction
Leopard Gecko Care Sheet
The Leopard Gecko is originally from Pakistan, India, and a few other countries in Asia. They actually live on hard rocky outcrops and they are nocturnal (active at night). They prefer temperatures between 82 and 88 degrees all day and night. They grow to between 8 to 11 inches. Leopard Geckos are available in a wide range of colors and patterns which are the result of selective captive breeding. These include albino, ghost, striped, jungle, Leucistic and high yellow. These colors have been made possible through selective captive breeding. Leopard Geckos make wonderful pets for almost any age person. Leopard Geckos also make good long term pets. They can live over twenty years. Never grab by tail it will break off. Leopard Gecko Housing: A male Leopard Gecko should never be housed in the same cage as another male leopard gecko because they will fight and possibly kill one another. A male can be housed with several females without any problems. I do not advise housing leopard geckos in the same cage with any other reptiles. A single Leopard Gecko can be kept in a ten gallon tank. For a male and a few females a twenty gallon tank or larger should be used. The cage should have a screen lid on top of it to prevent any escapes. Leopard geckos need places to hide and sleep during the day so you must provide a couple of hiding spots. They need a warm hiding spot and a cold humid hiding spot. Just put one hide box on the side with the heat light and put the humid hide box on the side that does not have the heat light. I actually prefer an under the tank heater for heat source rather than a light since the geckos are Nocturnal. For the humid hide box, Paper Towels work well and easily replaced inside a hide box. You can make your own humid hide box from a small plastic shoe box or from a margarine conatiner. Cut a hole in one end of the container and place moist paper towel inside it. The humid box should be cleaned out every week and re moistened. A humid hide box is needed so that the gecko can go in it when it needs to shed. The humidity helps the old skin come off.
Substrate: There is an abundance of products on the market that claim to be safe substrates. All Loose Substrates (Please note the link above) however are not safe to use. A substrate is what you put on the bottom of the cage for the lizard to walk around on. If a Leopard Gecko ingests any of the substrate accidentally, the substrate must pass through the digestive system. Trust me they will ingest substrate, sometimes on purpose. If it does not easily pass through the digestive system compaction will occur. Compaction is an extreme blockage of the digestive tract and is often fatal. Some substrates that I consider unsafe because they can cause compaction are: sand, bark, Calci sand, crushed walnut shells, lizard litter, gravel, aquarium gravel, and coconut fiber. The safest substrate is using paper towels or plain newspaper, non-stick shelf liner , cage carpet or ceramic tile. For any leopard geckos that are younger than six months I advise using paper towels or plain newspaper until they are at least six months old. Calcium sand is not fully digested no matter what it claims. The stuff just does not break down completely. .
Leopard Gecko Heating and Temperature: The cage should be between 82 to 88 degrees all day and night. There is two basic ways to heat the cage. One is to use a under tank heater like heat tape. The other is to use a black, or blue night incandescent heat light. I prefer to use a heat light. For a 10 gallon tank a 60 watt bulb should work depending on room temperature. Place the heat light on one end of the cage. By putting the heat light on one end of the cage it keeps that side warmest and allows the gecko to move to the warmer side with the light or to the colder side without the light as needed to regulate body temperature.
NEVER EVER USE A HOT ROCK, HEAT ROCK, OR ANY SIMILAR PRODUCT. Hot rocks heat unevenly and are notorious for causing terrible thermal burns. Do not buy a hot rock and if you know anyone who uses one, tell them to throw it away.
Leopard Gecko Feeding: Leopard Geckos will do very well on a diet of mealworms and crickets. I like to provide some variety in feeder insects to create a more balanced diet. Feeder insects I use are silkworms, mealworms, roaches and crickets with the legs on one side of the body pulled off. Crickets will bite your geckos while they sleep, these bites are prone to infection, so if you pull off one side of their legs then they cannot move around the cage and get to the gecko and also this prevents the crickets from climbing out of the cage. Gut load feeder insects for at least a day before putting them in with the gecko. Feed geckos insects that are not larger than the width of the head of the gecko.
Adults can be fed superworms, though I advise only feeding a couple superworms at a time. Leopard Gecko Vitamin/Mineral Supplement: For young geckos dust the feeder insects every other feeding or place a small feeder dish with supplement in it and some mealworms in the cage. For adults and babies place a shallow dish or a plastic lid in the cage with a teaspoon of calcium powder on it. The gecko will lick the calcium powder as needed. You still need to dust feeder insects every other feeding though with a vitamin supplement for young geckos. Adults use vitamin supplement once a week. Leopard Gecko Water: Use a shallow water bowl, fill with water as needed. Remove bowl from cage and clean out weekly.
Do Not Feed Pinkies
If this is a calcium deficiency then a Herp Vet visit may be needed as they can address it with a calcium injection. They can also test for a parasite issue as well. I have given you a way to get some calcium and food going in for now, but the Herp Vet visit will be the wisest move with a hands on Exam. Joan
Actually I was hoping to avoid the vet and therefore consulted with you. The people at the reptile shop gave Rexy some of the same comments and I was hoping you would provide additional or alternatives. I am unlikely to risk the baby food suggestion as it seems unnatural to the gecko and it may not work.
I handle geckos all the time in my rescue and have 3 of my own in the 1 in the 20's and 2 in their teens. The baby food is the only viable option short of seeing the Vet. You do not force feed but allow the Leo to lick the meat flavored baby food mixed with the calcium off the snout. Most likely if you see a Vet they will recommend A/D dog food mixed with calcium. Unfortunately these are the only options and they do work short of a calcium injection given by the Herp Vet. Joan
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