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Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist
Category: Reptile
Satisfied Customers: 11513
Experience:  Have owned turtles, snakes, amphibians, and lizards. Study and provide habitat for wild herps.
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How often should an adult bearded dragon (about 3 years ) poop

Resolved Question:

How often should an adult bearded dragon (about 3 years?) poop? I just adoped her, and while I've had other reptiles. I'm new to beardies. There are two lights; she ate about 15 -20 crickets yesterday, but no poop as of yet. She made a big, stinky poop on Sunday, and two less stink ones on Mon. No poop Tues.or today.
Submitted: 7 years ago.
Category: Reptile
Expert:  Anna replied 7 years ago.

Yes, that could be normal. They don't always poop every day. Some only go a couple of times a week.

I am concerned about your lighting. That broad spectrum light may not provide the necessary UVB light. Pet store personnel are often not well-informed on this and sell customers inadequate lights. It's extremely important that you make sure the light produces UVB rays. Don't take the word of pet store personnel, but read it for yourself. Full-spectrum, DayGlo, daylight, UV, and UVA are NOT the same thing. I'm putting a lot of emphasis on this because it's crucial to a reptile’s health. Without this light, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) will develop because they won't be able to produce vitamin D. Vitamin supplements are not a good replacement for the proper lighting. MBD causes a very slow and painful death. UVB bulbs must be replaced every six months as they lose their effectiveness after that, even though they may still look fine. I recommend a Reptisun 10.0 if you need to buy a new one.

I’m sending along a care sheet, courtesy of Joan, another of our experts. Joan has many years experience keeping and rescuing beardies. I suggest that you use the care sheet as a check list to provide the best possible care for your beardies. If you have more questions, just let me know by clicking on REPLY. The care sheet follows.


Bearded Dragon Care Sheet

* Bearded dragons should be housed alone.

* Ages of bearded dragons follow these guidelines:

1. 0-3 months- baby
2. 3-12 months-juvenile
3. 12-18 months- sub adult
4. 18 months + -adult

* Bearded dragons live as much as 10-12 years if well cared for properly.
* Bearded dragons have a very good temperament as long as they are cared for and handled.
* When you bring your baby home, it may be quite stressful to him/her to get use to new home. May not eat well the first 2-3 days. They may not need to be handled the first 2-3 days if skittish and nervous.
* Never use sand or any other type of loose substrate: Loose substrates can cause impaction (not being able to go Poop) in all ages of bearded dragons- they lick their environment to explore .It is difficult to keep germ free and clean. Ceramic tile, newspaper, non adhesive shelf liner and reptile carpet is what is most recommended. Use paper towels for the little one and as they get bigger you can change to something else.
* Be sure you keep your beardies home as clean as you can. Clean up by spot cleaning when needed. Clean & sanitize entire tank every 10-14 days. A good cleaning solution is a 20% bleach solution. If you choose to use wood climbing branches etc, these should be soaked in the bleach solution and rinsed well. Then bake in 250 degree oven for 30 minutes.
* Need a climbing accessory: to bask and to warm up under basking heat light and lower branches or platforms to come down and cool off.
* A hide of some sort like a cave.
* A food dish and water dish.
* Plastic spray bottle
* Can use artificial plants when they get older- 3 months or so.
* Digital thermostat and/or temp gun
* Tank size: Minimal size tank for this age is 20 gallon long
* Minimal size for older beardie: 4 months of age: 40 gallon breeder is the minimal tank size for older dragon. Can divide a 40 gallon breeder for a smaller dragon. Must have two lights for your beardie.

1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended.
2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.

* Lights should be on for 12-14 hours each day. Follow the seasons and light timers are a great luxury if you can get them. 6 dollars at Lowe's. No lights or warmth needed at night unless your temperatures get below 62 degrees. If they do, there are ceramic heat emitters that put out no light, only heat. Use these at night if temperatures fall below 62 degrees.

* Temperatures have to be kept at the following ranges during the day:

Babies: Warm basking log: 110-125 degrees F
Cool side: 85-90
Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115F (40.5*C to 46*C)

Cool side: 80-85F (27*C to 29*C)

Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.

* Feeding a Beardie: Beardies eat live prey consisting of crickets, roaches and/or silkworms. Never feed any size of mice to your beardie. Never feed mealworms. They also must be given greens/veggies everyday. The younger they are the more live prey they should have. As they grow older the live prey decreases and the veggies/greens should be the major part of diet. Never feed anything bigger, than the space between your beardie's eyes. This includes both live prey and pieces of veggies/greens,
* A chopper or food processor is a huge help when your beardie is small. Always offer greens and veggies: collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, cabbage, red cabbage, fresh green beans, yellow summer squash, butternut squash, sweet potato, cactus pad. Apricots, strawberries, apples, blueberries, raspberries, cantaloupe- fruits are treats only.
* What is live prey? The easiest and less expensive live prey is crickets when you have a young or first beardie. The other live preys you can feed are silkworms, and special types of roaches. You can learn to raise your own live prey. Treats can be waxworms, super worms, and tomato/goliath worms. You may find that ordering live prey from the internet is the way to go..... Never leave live prey or greens/veggies in tank overnight. . Crickets can bite your beardie when sleeping.
* Babies should get 80% live prey, and 20 % greens/veggies. But since the greens/veggies are a must when they are older, get them eating their greens/veggies very early. Give greens/veggies in small pieces everyday. You should eventually start decreasing your older dragon's protein intake when they are about a year to 15 months old. Their protein intake decreases to 20 % live prey and 80% veggies/greens.
* A baby can eat 50-75 crix a day. Never feed crix or veggies bigger than the space between your beardie's eyes. Use this guide when buying crix or chopping your greens/veggies.
* You must provide calcium dust without D3 and multivitamin dust for your beardie. You should dust the live prey with calcium one time a day, and vitamins 3 times a week. Just collect your live prey into baggie and add enough calcium and vitamin to dust them. Then pour a few at a time into your tank. Some people feed their beardie in a separate tank so that no crickets can hide. Or some take out "furniture" from tank and feed this way. As they get older, 4-5 months or so dust live prey with calcium 3 times a week.
* Feed the veggies/ greens 1st thing in morning after lights on for one hour at least. Then after 2-3 hours offer crix. Then freshen green/veggies. Then give more crix. Make sure after last crix feeding there is at least 1-2 hours of lights so that they can digest their food before night time.

*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.

Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.

Customer: replied 7 years ago.
I did not purchase them from a petstore, but adopted them from a previous owner. The lights are Reptisun 5.0 UVBs flourescent bulbs and they are new.

How active should the adult be? The juvenile bounds about, eats her salads and her crickets. The adult ate the crickets as they "came to her" but didn't really chase them around the cage. She does not appear to be eating her salads, even though I put them in 1-2hrs after they lights go on, and before cricket feedings.

Otherwise she seems pretty healthy--alert, engaged. She's just a little lazy and isn't eating as much as the younger one, though I guess that's expected because she is fully grown.

I've been filling a plate (made from a transformed tupperward container 3 in in diameter for the younger one and six inc. in diameter for the older one). I've been following Melissa Kaplan's guidelins 2:1 greens to veggies with a treat of chopped berry (black/strawberry).
Expert:  Anna replied 7 years ago.
It sounds as if your adult may be less active than she should be. Her appetite could be better, too. Check to make sure your temperatures are high enough - that's a common cause of slowness and poor appetite. In recent years, we've learned that bearded dragons need warmer temperatures than was previously thought, and many web sites have not been updated to include that information. If the temperatures are fine, she may be getting ready to shed. Kaplan's site is excellent for health issues and resources, but some of her care guidelines are outdated. That may be where you got your information on UVB lighting. A bulb with a 5.0 output is not adequate for beardies. They need 10.0. with the less powerful bulb, they are very likely to develop MBD. In addition, the 5.0 bulbs aren't good for as long as the 10.0. By the time the bulbs are 3 months old, they are doing nothing. If you can possibly exchange them for Reptisun 10.0 bulbs, I recommend doing that.

If you need anything else, don't hesitate to ask.

Customer: replied 7 years ago.
What are the temperatures you recommend. I think the basking spot is too cool. I used a digital thermometer with a probe and it was only 100 degrees F this morning. The cool side is within the 80-85 range. I tried raising the height of the basking log to get it closer to the heat source (without being so close as to burn by accident), and tonight I will get a higher wattage incandescent and also new reptisun bulbs that are 10.

It might also have been the transition, though. As the big one was bounding around after the crickets this morning, and that was after she ate her greens. I tried kale/mint/carrot mix and that seemed to go over better than the endive/collard/carrot mix.

ARe they susceptible to stress like other creatures. They've only been in their new environs for 4 days. How often should the big one poop?
Expert:  Anna replied 7 years ago.
For the adult, the basking area should be 105*F to 115*F. The younger one should have a basking area at 110*F to 125*F, and a cool side at 85*F to 90*F.

They can be stressed by a move like any other animal. But, you also want to make sure everything is correct for them. Once you're sure of that, give them some time to adjust.

The normal number of poops varies from one dragon to the next and also depends on the diet. some may go more than once each day, while others may go only twice in a week. Kale and carrots should be fed occasionally. Try to find some collard greens as a staple green. The following site has excellent information on nutrition. The foods that should be fed often are highlighted in green.


Edited by MsAM on 8/19/2010 at 9:06 PM EST
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