I have a Gecko that is shedding all is going well but the skin over it's eyes don't seam to be comeing off, I have not

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Customer: I have a young Gecko that is shedding all is going well but the skin over it's eyes don't seam to be comeing off, I have not had her long & had to hand feed her due to her not being able to see. Is their anything I can to do help with it?
Answered by Jav917 in 14 hours 13 years ago
Pet Specialist

27,324 satisfied customers

Specialities include: Reptile Veterinary, Herp Veterinary, Exotic Animal Medicine, Amphibian Veterinary


Can you tell me about your set up?


Hides? Moist?





The Gecko had the set up when I got her but I have inproved on it she now has all the right things to make shedding easier I have a larger older Gecko & have never had a problem with her this one was having issues when I got her. I have been hand feeding her due to the fact that during her last shedding it never came off her eyes. She was under weight too. She looks much better but again the shed is stuck on her eyes. I have also but her in a container with warm water & paper towels with a lid on for 30 min at a time to see if that would help but nothing so far.


To help get the retained shed you will need to give her some nice warm soaks in a container with warm water at least once a day. You can take a q-tip and gently rub across the eye lids with some plain cooking oil and this will help moisturize the areas to allow the shed to come off the lids. If there are retained eye caps a Herp Vet will need to remove them. This link shows whart can happen if the eye caps are not removed by a Herp Vet: http://www.azeah.com/Care-Sheets.asp?id=117

I suggest using some plain saline eye drops without preservative to also help keep the retained shed soft. I can locate a Herp Vet with a location of state or country.

I do want to recommend using a slurry of chicken baby food, calcium powder and pedialyte dropped on the snout as a supplemental feeding for the Leo. Joan


http://homepage.mac.com/exoticdvm/reptile/PhotoAlbum181.html Sand Impaction


Leopard Gecko Care Sheet

The Leopard Gecko is originally from Pakistan, India, and a few other countries in Asia. They actually live on hard rocky outcrops and they are nocturnal (active at night). They prefer temperatures between 82 and 88 degrees all day and night. They grow to between 8 to 11 inches. Leopard Geckos are available in a wide range of colors and patterns which are the result of selective captive breeding. These include albino, ghost, striped, jungle, Leucistic and high yellow. These colors have been made possible through selective captive breeding. Leopard Geckos make wonderful pets for almost any age person. Leopard Geckos also make good long term pets. They can live over twenty years. Never grab by tail it will break off. Leopard Gecko Housing: A male Leopard Gecko should never be housed in the same cage as another male leopard gecko because they will fight and possibly kill one another. A male can be housed with several females without any problems. I do not advise housing leopard geckos in the same cage with any other reptiles. A single Leopard Gecko can be kept in a ten gallon tank. For a male and a few females a twenty gallon tank or larger should be used. The cage should have a screen lid on top of it to prevent any escapes. Leopard geckos need places to hide and sleep during the day so you must provide a couple of hiding spots. They need a warm hiding spot and a cold humid hiding spot. Just put one hide box on the side with the heat light and put the humid hide box on the side that does not have the heat light. I actually prefer an under the tank heater for heat source rather than a light since the geckos are Nocturnal. For the humid hide box, Paper Towels work well and easily replaced inside a hide box. You can make your own humid hide box from a small plastic shoe box or from a margarine conatiner. Cut a hole in one end of the container and place moist paper towel inside it. The humid box should be cleaned out every week and re moistened. A humid hide box is needed so that the gecko can go in it when it needs to shed. The humidity helps the old skin come off.
Substrate: There is an abundance of products on the market that claim to be safe substrates. All Loose Substrates (Please note the link above) however are not safe to use. A substrate is what you put on the bottom of the cage for the lizard to walk around on. If a Leopard Gecko ingests any of the substrate accidentally, the substrate must pass through the digestive system. Trust me they will ingest substrate, sometimes on purpose. If it does not easily pass through the digestive system compaction will occur. Compaction is an extreme blockage of the digestive tract and is often fatal. Some substrates that I consider unsafe because they can cause compaction are: sand, bark, Calci sand, crushed walnut shells, lizard litter, gravel, aquarium gravel, and coconut fiber. The safest substrate is using paper towels or plain newspaper, non-stick shelf liner , cage carpet or ceramic tile. For any leopard geckos that are younger than six months I advise using paper towels or plain newspaper until they are at least six months old. Calcium sand is not fully digested no matter what it claims. The stuff just does not break down completely. . Leopard Gecko Heating and Temperature: The cage should be between 82 to 88 degrees all day and night. There is two basic ways to heat the cage. One is to use a under tank heater like heat tape. The other is to use a black, or blue night incandescent heat light. I prefer to use a heat light. For a 10 gallon tank a 60 watt bulb should work depending on room temperature. Place the heat light on one end of the cage. By putting the heat light on one end of the cage it keeps that side warmest and allows the gecko to move to the warmer side with the light or to the colder side without the light as needed to regulate body temperature.
NEVER EVER USE A HOT ROCK, HEAT ROCK, OR ANY SIMILAR PRODUCT. Hot rocks heat unevenly and are notorious for causing terrible thermal burns. Do not buy a hot rock and if you know anyone who uses one, tell them to throw it away. Leopard Gecko Feeding: Leopard Geckos will do very well on a diet of mealworms and crickets. I like to provide some variety in feeder insects to create a more balanced diet. Feeder insects I use are silkworms, mealworms, roaches and crickets with the legs on one side of the body pulled off. Crickets will bite your geckos while they sleep, these bites are prone to infection, so if you pull off one side of their legs then they cannot move around the cage and get to the gecko and also this prevents the crickets from climbing out of the cage. Gut load feeder insects for at least a day before putting them in with the gecko. Feed geckos insects that are not larger than the width of the head of the gecko.
Adults can be fed superworms, though I advise only feeding a couple superworms at a time. Leopard Gecko Vitamin/Mineral Supplement: For young geckos dust the feeder insects every other feeding or place a small feeder dish with supplement in it and some mealworms in the cage. For adults and babies place a shallow dish or a plastic lid in the cage with a teaspoon of calcium powder on it. The gecko will lick the calcium powder as needed. You still need to dust feeder insects every other feeding though with a vitamin supplement for young geckos. Adults use vitamin supplement once a week. Leopard Gecko Water: Use a shallow water bowl, fill with water as needed. Remove bowl from cage and clean out weekly.

Do Not Feed Pinkies


I have been getting her to eat small crckets dusted in a vitamin mineral supplement with calcium and like I said she looks a lot better then she did when i got her. The eyes were my main issue, I will check but I don't know if their is a Herp Vet close by that can help I am in Iron county UT. I will try the cooking oil and other things.


Here are the Herp Vets in UT: http://www.anapsid.org/vets/utah.html Joan

Thanks for the info but the closest one is over 265 miles and a 4 plus hour drive. So no one real close. Thats why I was hoping to figure out why and how to take care of it. As for the feeding is what i am doing working? Do to you talking about using baby food.


Force Feeding can be a serious issue because of the chance of aspiration. The baby food works well adn the Leo can be weaned back onto food as needed. If you can get the Leo to take a silkworm or wax worm that would be the best.You want to use soft bodied feeders for a while and can use the baby food to supplement the leo. Joan

I am not force feeding she is eating them on her own I just have to rub her face and she bites at them. I also tried the worms and she did not seam to like them as much.


If something is working , keep it up.The big thing is to get the shed off the eyes. The baths and q-tips shoould help. Joan

How long should I give the oil and the warm watter before I try in take her to a Vet here in town thats even if any of them will know any thing about Geckos.

I would like to say thank you so much the oil just worked. Her eyes are cleared now i have to say I ever run accross the person that had her and didn't take care of her I have a few words for them. She was a rescue and I am very glad for your help. Thank you again...

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