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is there are cure for metabolic bone disease

is there are cure for metabolic bone disease
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Answered in 1 hour by:
6/16/2009
Anna
Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist
Category: Reptile
Satisfied Customers: 11,657
Experience: Have owned turtles, snakes, amphibians, and lizards. Study and provide habitat for wild herps.
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Hello,

Some additional information will help me to answer your question.

How long have you now had the UVB light?

Do use a calcium supplement?

What symptoms of MBD are you seeing?

What temperatures do you have on the warm and cool sides of the cage?

Is he passing normal droppings?

What substrate do you use on the floor?

What are you feeding him?

Thank you.

Anna



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Customer reply replied 8 years ago

Hi Anna,

 

Using lamp just since yesterday.

I use calcium food for the crickets he gets but no on the worms of veg.

He became lathergic, over a few days his limbs are hanging loose and he cant walk with this back legs, he has a loss of appetite, he seems so frail.

I think about 80 - 100

He is passing droppings, i bathed him in hot water andthis helped. They are not as big as before and they are green in color.

He was on carpet until the last few weeks, where i changed sand and now I have changed him back to carpet.

He gets crickets, meal worms, greens, carrorts and I have given him some sugr free apple sauce, i saw this on a website.

Do you think it is too late to rectify any damage?

Thanks

Shirley

Thank you for getting back to me, Shirley. I suspect you got your information on care from a pet store. That information is often wrong, and leads to many well-intentioned pet owners tending to sick animals. Usually when something goes wrong, there's more than one factor involved, and that's the case with your beardie. MBD can be cured, but it takes awhile. Since your beardie is so frail, I recommend that you see a reptile vet. The vet can give special calcium injections that will give faster results. If you don't know of a vet, give me your location, and I'll provide a list.

Your instincts in gving a warm bath were good. You can make the bath even better by making it 1/2 water and 1/2 Pedialyte (made for human infants and available in discount stores and pharmacies). Soak him for 20 to 30 minutes, supervising closely. Lizards can absorb fluids and electrolytes through their vents, so this will help with dehydration. Repeat the soak twice a day.

You also need to get a reliable digital probe thermometer - discount stores have them at reasonable prices. Proper temperatures are so important to the health of a beardie that you just can't afford to guess. If your estimate is right, your dragon is too cold. Being even a little chilly can result in lethargy and appetite loss. Directly under the basking light, the temperature should be 110-125*F. The coolest part of the cage should be at 85-90*F. By increasing the temperature, you may see a fast improvement in appetite.

You made a good decision to get rid of the sand substrate. It leads to impaction, eye infections, and respiratory irritation. The reptile carpet is much better.

While your beardie is ill, get some chicken baby food. Mix in some plain calcium powder. Then drop a little dollop onto the end of his snout. Most beardies will lick it off. This is a way to get both nourishing food and calcium into him. Meal worms are a very bad food for beardies, and should never be fed. They contain too much chitin, which leads to impaction. Crickets are fine, and silkworms are a great food. Carrots and fruits are also bad. There's a lot of bad information available on the internet, so you have to be careful what sites you use. Here is one that provides good information on feeding produce:

http://www.repticzone.com/articles/fruitsandvegetablesrated.html

In summary, I recommend that you start Pedialyte soaks right away, get the temperature up to the proper levels as soon as possible, begin feeding chicken baby food/calcium powder, and ideally, schedule an appointment with a reptile vet. There is an excellent chance the MBD can be reversed if all the appropriate steps are taken.

I'm also sending along a care sheet, courtesy of Joan, another of our experts. She has many years experience with beardies. You can use it as a checklist to make sure everything is right. If you have more questions, or need help finding a vet, just let me know by clicking on REPLY.I hope your beardie will reach a full recovery.

Anna


Bearded Dragon Care Sheet

    * Bearded dragons should be housed alone.

    * Ages of bearded dragons follow these guidelines:

1. 0-3 months- baby
2. 3-12 months-juvenile
3. 12-18 months- sub adult
4. 18 months + -adult

    * Bearded dragons live as much as 10-12 years if well cared for properly.
    * Bearded dragons have a very good temperament as long as they are cared for and handled.
    * When you bring your baby home, it may be quite stressful to him/her to get use to new home. May not eat well the first 2-3 days. They may not need to be handled the first 2-3 days if skittish and nervous.
    * Never use sand or any other type of loose substrate: Loose substrates can cause impaction (not being able to go Poop) in all ages of bearded dragons- they lick their environment to explore .It is difficult to keep germ free and clean. Ceramic tile, newspaper, non adhesive shelf liner and reptile carpet is what is most recommended. Use paper towels for the little one and as they get bigger you can change to something else.
    * Be sure you keep your beardies home as clean as you can. Clean up by spot cleaning when needed. Clean & sanitize entire tank every 10-14 days. A good cleaning solution is a 20% bleach solution. If you choose to use wood climbing branches etc, these should be soaked in the bleach solution and rinsed well. Then bake in 250 degree oven for 30 minutes.
    * Need a climbing accessory: to bask and to warm up under basking heat light and lower branches or platforms to come down and cool off.
    * A hide of some sort like a cave.
    * A food dish and water dish.
    * Plastic spray bottle
    * Can use artificial plants when they get older- 3 months or so.
    * Digital thermostat and/or temp gun
    * Tank size: Minimal size tank for this age is 20 gallon long
    * Minimal size for older beardie: 4 months of age: 40 gallon breeder is the minimal tank size for older dragon. Can divide a 40 gallon breeder for a smaller dragon. Must have two lights for your beardie.

1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended.
2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.

    * Lights should be on for 12-14 hours each day. Follow the seasons and light timers are a great luxury if you can get them. 6 dollars at Lowe's. No lights or warmth needed at night unless your temperatures get below 62 degrees. If they do, there are ceramic heat emitters that put out no light, only heat. Use these at night if temperatures fall below 62 degrees.



    * Temperatures have to be kept at the following ranges during the day:

Babies: Warm basking log: 110-125 degrees F
Cool side: 85-90
Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115
Cool side: 80-85
Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.

    * Feeding a Beardie: Beardies eat live prey consisting of crickets, roaches and/or silkworms. Never feed any size of mice to your beardie. Never feed mealworms. They also must be given greens/veggies everyday. The younger they are the more live prey they should have. As they grow older the live prey decreases and the veggies/greens should be the major part of diet. Never feed anything bigger, than the space between your beardie's eyes. This includes both live prey and pieces of veggies/greens,
    * A chopper or food processor is a huge help when your beardie is small. Always offer greens and veggies: collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, cabbage, red cabbage, fresh green beans, yellow summer squash, butternut squash, sweet potato, cactus pad. Apricots, strawberries, apples, blueberries, raspberries, cantaloupe- fruits are treats only.
    * What is live prey? The easiest and less expensive live prey is crickets when you have a young or first beardie. The other live preys you can feed are silkworms, and special types of roaches. You can learn to raise your own live prey. Treats can be waxworms, super worms, and tomato/goliath worms. You may find that ordering live prey from the internet is the way to go..... Never leave live prey or greens/veggies in tank overnight. . Crickets can bite your beardie when sleeping.
    * Babies should get 80% live prey, and 20 % greens/veggies. But since the greens/veggies are a must when they are older, get them eating their greens/veggies very early. Give greens/veggies in small pieces everyday. You should eventually start decreasing your older dragon's protein intake when they are about a year to 15 months old. Their protein intake decreases to 20 % live prey and 80% veggies/greens.
    * A baby can eat 50-75 crix a day. Never feed crix or veggies bigger than the space between your beardie's eyes. Use this guide when buying crix or chopping your greens/veggies.
    * You must provide calcium dust without D3 and multivitamin dust for your beardie. You should dust the live prey with calcium one time a day, and vitamins 3 times a week. Just collect your live prey into baggie and add enough calcium and vitamin to dust them. Then pour a few at a time into your tank. Some people feed their beardie in a separate tank so that no crickets can hide. Or some take out "furniture" from tank and feed this way. As they get older, 4-5 months or so dust live prey with calcium 3 times a week.
    * Feed the veggies/ greens 1st thing in morning after lights on for one hour at least. Then after 2-3 hours offer crix. Then freshen green/veggies. Then give more crix. Make sure after last crix feeding there is at least 1-2 hours of lights so that they can digest their food before night time.

*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibermnation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live pery during Brumation.

Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.


    
Anna
Anna, Reptile Expert, Biologist
Category: Reptile
Satisfied Customers: 11,657
Experience: Have owned turtles, snakes, amphibians, and lizards. Study and provide habitat for wild herps.
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