Now, let's look at each concern.
1) This is how were caring for him now. He's a newborn, I think. He's about 4 inches long maybe less actually. We have him in a 10 gall tank with that shredded paper stuff that you buy in a bag, on the bottom of the cage. I want to get the sand, but that will have to wait. Is sand the best?
This little guy is so small that he shouldn't even have been sent to a new home yet. It's going to take a lot of careful attention to details ony our part to help him thrive. so, please, don't go by the online information you've read. He shouldn't have sand - not EVER. Beardies explore with their tongues and easily ingest sand. We see it here almost every day - impactions in beardies kept on sand or any other loose substrate. Sand also causes eye injuries and infections, and respiratory irritations. At this stage of the beardie's life, he's better off on something that won't cost you anything - newspaper. white paper towels will also work. these are the safest substrates for him. when he's older, reptile carpet, ceramic tiles,shelf paper or other solid substrates are best. If you'd like to see the results of using sand, including some rather graphic photos, visit this site:
Pet stores sell this stuff to make money, not because it's good for the lizards.
2) Also, I bought the calcuim spray for him. And, the powder that you shake on his crickets.
The calcium sprays are ineffective. You want to get a plain calcium powder, without phosphorus and without vitamin D3. Phosphorus and D3 lead to serious health problems - again ignore what you've seen elsewhere. Flukers makes a good one. It's inexpensive. Here's an online source:
3)I read, they eat about 80% veggies/fruit and 20% crickets. Is this correct???
Adults need those proportions of prey and vegetables. Fruits are not good for them. until your beardies is about one year old, he needs 80% prey and 20% vegetables. Crickets have to be very small - no larger than the space between the beardie's eyes. Some variety is better than always feeding crickets, but don't ever feel meal worms. They're too high in chitin and lead to impactions. One of the best prey items is silk worms. The prey should be dusted in the plain calcium powder described above. The following site describes the various types of produce and how often to feed them:
4) We have the UVB light on him, but still need to get a heating pad for the bottom of his cage. I also need to get ANOTHER Red light, so I don't have to switch between the iguana and dragon on the red light, between day and night.
Don't waste your money on the heating pad or a red light. Beardies need heat from above. The red lights can easily cause thermal burns. In fact it would be better for both the iguana and the dragon if you would get them each a plain clip-on reflector light. They're cheap - only a few dollars each. You can get them at farm supply stores, where they're sold as brooder lights for baby chicks, or at Home Depot, Lowes, or a hardware store, where they're sold as work lights. then, just put an ordinary 60 to 75 watt incandescent light bulb (no red lights or compact fluorescents) in the reflector. Here is a photo of the kind of light:
5) I realize it has to be at 90-100 degrees on one side and up to 80 on the other side of the cage right? FOR BOTH lizards?
No, the requirements are quite different for the two species. For the iguana, the temperature directly under the basking light should be 90*F to 95*F. The coolest part of the cage should be 80*F. Your little beardie needs much warmer temperatures: 105-125*F under the basking light and, on the cool side: 85-90*F. Please don't put off gettingt he thermometer and the reflector lights, even if you have to borrow money from a family member or friend. Temperatures too high can quickly kill a baby lizard, but if it's not warm enough, he's likely to become lethargic and sick rapidly. He's very fragile at this age, and you could lose him in no time if things aren't just right.
As for the rude woman int he pet store, I'm afraid there's not much youc an do. you could report her to her boss, which probably won't accomplish anything, or you can refuse to shop there. That's about it, I'm afraid.
I hope I've covered everything. just get back to me, if not.