The antibiotics are given for a secondary infection, where the break is located. Depending what antibiotic is given it may be for a parasitic infection. As far as treatment the Probitics are excellent to help with the gut flora. With MBD there are usually injections given and also calcium glubonate Given orally. AS far as feeding I use a slurry mix which seems to work well with debilated Dragon. It is made with Green veggetables pureed, and Ensure liquid vanilla, Clacium gubonate, Acidophilus, Bee Pollen and Royal Jelly. This slurry helps maintain the nutritional balance for the dragon. An adult dragon should be on a 80% greeens diet to 20% prey diet. I use silk worms, and crickets for the prey since they are the best feeders beside roaches. Meal worms have too much chitin which can cause an impaction as well as sand and other looses substrates can cause a gut impaction. I am going to give you may care sheet and give you time to read it and we can discuss this further. Joan
1. 0-3 months- baby
2. 3-12 months-juvenile
3. 12-18 months- sub adult
4. 18 months + -adult
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended.
2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.
Babies: Warm basking log: 105-125 degrees F
Cool side: 85-90
Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115
Cool side: 80-85
Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibermnation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shoter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live pery during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.
If you have any further questions feel free to ask. I like to start people off with proper husbandry and then see if I can further assist. Joan
http://www.repticzone.com/articles/fruitsandvegetablesrated.html This is for fruits and Vegetables
Thanks for your advice and reply to my questions.
I have just a few final questions regarding this case. Should I continue taking him to the vet and finish his 8 does of antibiotic shots although he has no apparent broken bones? (He was X-rayed twice to check for fractures. He had a painful swollen arm but now there is no swelling.) He seems just sore, and still struggles along when moving, jerky motions as if crippled. When I feed him or rehydrate him through the syringe he fights back not to open his mouth and struggles a lot. Should I still perservere with this or am I causing more harm? Also, I can see that his whole body winces as if paralyzed when being injected with calcium glubonate. Should I tell the vet to discontinue calcium shots? I already put calcium powder inside the belly of the cricket (dead cricket) or mix into his rehydration solution. His visits to the vet means he is being cooled down to 60-65 F as he is under air-conditioned surroundings for up to 2 hours sometimes. Is this causing him harm? I am considering stopping all vet visits from now on (as they seem to traumatizes him) and just treat him at home with supplements and proper diet and lighting. What do you think? Thanks.
I would find out what the antibiotics are being used for, and not continue to you get a satisfatory answer. As far as the Calcium Glubonate it can be given orally as well as the Vet can show you how tube feed rather than fighting to feed and to give the Meds. To transport the dragon, to the Vet. Use a styrofoam cooler and a heat pack (make a heat pack out of uncooked rice and a sock warm in the microwave to warm) to keep temps warm. We use that here in the states when it is cold and a Dragon must go for a Vet visit. The slurry mixture I suggested works very well and is usually accepted without a fight. Try dropping it on the snout and the Dragon should lick the mixture willingly. This can lead to feeding in a dish rather than a fight to feed the Dragon. Joan
http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Meds.html#CalciumGluconate oral Calcium Glubonate
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