I have not received an answer ...about my cockteil plucking…

Hello, I'm still here for you! Thank you for your patience and understanding. I've had two emergency rescues in the last 48 hours and it's heartbreaking. These birds don't know what's going on and they're so scared. Your baby is VERY lucky not only to have you, but in that you care enough to look for help - so speaking for him, thank you! He truly appreciates it

Self mutilation/plucking is one of the most frustrating problems we bird parents encounter.

Tracking down the causation is a very difficult endeavor and can end up making us pull our hair out! Let's go over just some of the top possibilities, not in any particular order:

There may be Folliculitis which is an infection at the base of feathers. Folliculitis could be the result of a bacteria or a fungus, even a viral infection in the body. It cannot be treated until the source is known and the only way to know is with a hands on examination that samples the area.
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In some very rare cases, mites could be a problem, although with well cared for birds kept in environments that are cleaned every day, mites are very uncommon.
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Intestinal issues like a fungal or yeast infection, perhaps parasites could be behind it.
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A vitamin A or other nutritional deficiency is quite often behind feather issues, especially if a bird is fed a diet that includes seeds and millet sprays. Although we think it’s good for them - caged birds don’t have the metabolism that tolerates this well.
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There are various genetic diseases that might also be the source.
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Sometimes it’s the result of boredom or frustration, but before going there, a physical exam is absolutely necessary

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If the cage is too small this would cause stress and frustration too. How to know? If one or multiple birds in the same cage, at the same time cannot fully open their wings and completely turn around without the tips of the wings or their tails touching any side - then the cage is too small.
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It's pure nonsense for pet stores to recommend you "buy the biggest cage you can afford" - the actual rule is to "buy the biggest cage available for your species of bird" - and if you can't afford it, then save up and wait to get the bird. Otherwise it's like keeping a child in a closet and only letting them out now and then. Even though you feed them and keep them clean, this is just not right, right?

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By the way, if you're thinking "mites" - don't. They really only happen when cages aren't cleaned regularly or the birds are kept outdoors.

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And if it IS mites - there's not a single spray or cage protector that will work. Ever. Pet store nonsense at its most dangerous!
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An injection of med from a vet is the ONLY mite treatment out there. It's simple, effective and typically takes 1 or 2 injections depending on how early you've caught the problem.

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Feather plucking could also be an allergic reaction to air borne toxins like cigarette smoke or plug in air fresheners. Carpet cleaners, air sprays, scented candles, cooking materials, some foods and even personal scents like perfumes, colognes, hair sprays and other products might be doing it.

If your bird is not misted, showered or allowed to bathe regularly (daily is not required), it could cause skin irritations and feather plucking.
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Chlamydiosis/psittacosis, thyroid disease (generally underactive) and liver disease are three of the top systemic causes. Air Sacculitis and Septicemia are painful conditions – and pain will frequently lead to plucking.
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If your bird is exposed to zinc, copper, lead (most especially the zinc) it’s a serious problem (often life threatening) and one of the first symptoms is often feather plucking. Have a blood test done for zinc toxicity as soon as this is suspected. Zinc not only lurks in some cage bars, but in links, bells and many other seemingly harmless toys. Using a regular magnet check the metal around your bird. If it’s magnetic, there’s a possibility it’s zinc. It’s not definite, but possible. Play it safe. Have your vet perform a blood serum test for zinc levels (just in case your vet isn’t an avian vet, zinc levels over 2 ppm are positive for zinc toxicity). There will also likely be elevated WBC’s (white blood count).
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Dermatitis/Folliculitis (ingrown, impacted and/or infected feathers) most certainly causes feather plucking and likely going off food, becoming aggressive or cranky – or very opposite, becoming very affectionate and needy.
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Psittacosis/Chlamydiosis (Parrot Fever) tend to affect the liver and liver problems tend to produce feather plucking symptoms, among others.
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Polyomavirus or Circovirus/Psittacine Beak & Feather Disease) are serious viruses. Quite often the feathers are malformed rather than plucked and losses of feathers in the beak area can result in what looks like black, oily skin or beak.
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Neoplasia (cancer) may also lead to plucking in the area of the disease or tumor. More often than not it will be in the areas under the wings; however, it can present at any location. Skin may discolor and a tumor or growth may or may not be felt.
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Problems with nutrition or malnutrition – lending to liver problems can, by itself, be a cause of feather plucking.
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Poor or improper nutrition accounts for up to 90% of feather plucking problems according to some published veterinary medical studies and research. Some feather plucking that begins as the result of physical cause such as this or any one of those mentioned above, may end up a ‘habit’ – and once it’s a behavioral issue, it’s even more difficult to stop.

Ideally your bird needs a pellet based diet with at least one meal of fresh foods. I know, I know,, "my bird won't eat any of that". Well, if you had a 3 year old toddler who refused to eat anything except but ice cream and french fries, would you give in and feed them just that? Of course not! Your bird IS as intelligent as a human toddler and they know exactly what they're doing when they manipulate you into feeding them just the junk food (seeds/millet). If you want to pursue how to switch him to a better diet, just let me know and I'll help further. It can be done!
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Emotional or mental issues can contribute to feather plucking. In cases like this, an in home evaluation by a behavior consultant would be a good idea. Finding someone who is actually qualified is not as easy as it sounds. Anyone can claim to be a behavior consultant; if they claim to be a ‘behaviorist’ or ‘behavioralist’ you should avoid them to begin with. Only DVM’s (doctors of veterinary medicine) or other advanced degree specialists will have actually earned this title. In the whole world there are very few avian behaviorists.

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Emotionally based plucking may be because of lack of challenges, interests, input, too small of a cage, not enough to shred or chew, even sexual frustration in a mature bird.
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Try introducing new, interactive toys or changing the inside of the cage around.
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I know this is a lot to take in, so look it over carefully and we can discuss any or all areas you want more info on or clarification. I'll work with you however you need, when you need it.

Sound good ?

It’s generally recommended that most of today’s companion birds have a predominantly pelleted diet. Pellets have been continually updated since being introduced to the market years ago and today’s formulas are better than ever.
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Supplementing this diet with fresh foods every day is ideal and many owners find they can re-introduce seeds - in limited amounts (perhaps once or twice a week) without the bird refusing the pellets overall.
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Whole grains, dark leafy vegetables, fruits and legumes. Include the colors orange, yellow , green, plus reds too! Think sweet potatoes/yams, squash, melons, oranges, peas, chard, beets and others.
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Brown rice, quinoa, whole wheat couscous and natural, whole grain pastas are great choices.
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Limit fats, especially the kind from animals. Good fats are most plant fats like soy, olive and canola oils. No fried anything
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Another thing you can try is all natural, human baby food. Stick to the orange colors.
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They can be mixed with tiny pasta or rice, whole grain bread or toast - remember, be more creative than the bird is stubborn.
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As odd as it sounds, birds don’t need much, if any vitamin C. It is a water soluble vitamin which means it passes out of the body after the body takes what it needs and C is available in a wide variety of both fresh and processed foods given to birds.
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Vitamin A/Beta Carotene, on the other hand, is frequently found to be deficient in birds. This is a fat soluble vitamin which means it gets stored in the fat cells of the body, so it’s possible to overdose on it. With our companion birds though, too little is the situation most often encountered.
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The symptoms a bird will show when deficient are increased allergic reactions, respiratory/sinus infections, reproductive problems, skin and feather disorders, even cysts and tumors, as well as various intestinal complications.
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Vitamin A is most ideally received from natural foods like sweet potatoes, yams, carrots, squash and other dark colored vegetables. If your bird doesn’t care for fresh vegetables, a ½ teaspoon of natural baby food (human baby food) of any of these vegetables. Again, it must be all natural and nothing but the vegetable with water sufficient for processing.

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http://www.parrotsociety.org.au/articles/art_021.htm Nutritional Overview
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Also www.4AnimalCare.org/birds for details that include three homemade recipes you can also eat along with your bird.
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Even though this is put out by a cockatiel site, it’s applicable to all hook bills from budgies/parakeets to conures, greys and macaws.
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http://www.cockatiels.org/articles/nutrition/diet.html

cites feeding both seed and pellets, but only after weaning the bird from a mostly seed diet.

http://www.letstalkbirds.com/cockatiels.htm

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Do you think you can do this? Be stronger willed than your bird? He WILL be remarkably stubborn, you know?