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August Abbott, CAS
August Abbott, CAS, Certified Avian Specialist
Category: Bird
Satisfied Customers: 7627
Experience:  Cert. Avian Specialist; Int. Assoc.Animal Behavior Consult; Pet Ind. Joint Advisory Council; author
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My female parakeet has this hernia coming from rectum area.

Customer Question

My female parakeet has this hernia coming from rectum area.
JA: I'll do all I can to help. What seems to be the problem with the bird?
Customer: she has this cyst looking sack coming out at the bottom of her rectum area (I think it is her retum area)
JA: Where does the bird seem to hurt?
Customer: bottom end
JA: Can you see anything that looks wrong or different?
Customer: yes
JA: What?
Customer: we thought she was trying to lay an egg, but it looks stuck
JA: Could be a lot of things that cause lethargy. The Veterinarian will know how to help the bird. What is the bird's name and age?
Customer: tulip
JA: How old is Tulip?
Customer: not sure of her age
JA: Anything else I can tell the Veterinarian before I connect you two?
Customer: no, nothing that I can think of
JA: I'm sending you to a secure page on JustAnswer so you can place the $5 fully refundable deposit now. While you're filling out that form, I'll tell the Veterinarian about your situation and connect you two.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Bird
Expert:  PitRottMommy replied 1 year ago.
Hello and thank you for your question. It appears that the Expert you were hoping to speak with is not currently available. I have stepped in to assist you in their absence so that you have a prompt reply to your question. This sounds like it could be a medical emergency. Do you happen to have a clear photo of the area? How long has the tissue been herniated?
Expert:  August Abbott, CAS replied 1 year ago.
- What you're seeing is a very serious condition called cloaca prolapse and you need medical intervention quickly: The cloaca is also known as the vent in a bird, the opening from which both feces and urine exit the bird. In males it is also where the delivery tube (epididymis) for sperm from the vas deferens meets with the female’s cloaca which receives it for fertilization of her ovum. --- Cloacal prolapse is when the inside of the bird pushes out. In some cases it’s noted as a ‘red bottom’ or some owners will describe it as a ‘hemorrhoid’ – in other cases it’s unmistakably an emergency situation. In all cases it requires urgent veterinary intervention. The cloaca must be replaced (this is an organ that is not supposed to be on the outside). --- Most often it’s seen in females attempting to lay an egg or suffering Dystocia. Dystocia is the obstruction of oviposition or cloacal function because of an egg in the distal oviduct. --- Cloacal prolapse can also be caused by parasites or tumors, even nutritional problems. --- It’s not just vital to get the organ replaced (put back into the body), but figuring out why it happened to begin with is important or it will likely just keep happening, weakening the bird and the organ each time. --- Expect (or insist upon) a blood chemistry, X-rays and fecal exam . --- Sometimes surgery will be necessary to prevent it from happening again. A stitch called a ‘purse string suture’ is performed at the vent area to hold it in. This isn’t a ‘sure thing’ though and the bird needs to be monitored carefully, fed ideally for the species (in all birds a mostly pelleted diet is recommended) . When the prolapse recurs, surgical de-sexing, a very complicated and admittedly dangerous surgery, may be the only option. --- In just about every case though, no matter what the treatment is, an antibiotic is necessary in conjunction with it. --- This link will show you what a surgical repair entails (it’s pretty graphic, so be prepared). *******************************************When it comes to nutrition to help avoid this and a host of other health issues, a mostly pelleted diet is strongly recommended by just about everyone in avian science and research. Fresh foods should also make up a good deal of their everyday intake. Whole grains, dark leafy vegetables, fruits and legumes. Include the colors orange, yellow , green, plus reds too! Think sweet potatoes/yams, squash, melons, oranges, peas, chard, beets and others. Brown rice, quinoa, whole wheat couscous and natural, whole grain pastas are great choices.Limit fats, especially the kind from animals. Good fats are most plant fats like soy, olive and canola oils. No fried anything Another thing you can try is all natural, human baby food. Stick to the orange colors. They can be mixed with tiny pasta or rice, whole grain bread or toast - remember, be more creative than the bird is stubborn. As odd as it sounds, birds don’t need much, if any vitamin C. It is a water soluable vitamin which means it passes out of the body after the body takes what it needs and C is available in a wide variety of both fresh and processed foods given to birds. Vitamin A/Beta Carotene, on the other hand, is frequently found to be deficient in birds. This is a fat soluble vitamin which means it gets stored in the fat cells of the body, so it’s possible to overdose on it. With our companion birds though, too little is the situation most often encountered. The symptoms a bird will show when deficient are increased allergic reactions, respiratory/sinus infections, reproductive problems, skin and feather disorders, even cysts and tumors, as well as various intestinal complications. Vitamin A is most ideally received from natural foods like sweet potatoes, yams, carrots, squash and other dark colored vegetables. If your bird doesn’t care for fresh vegetables, a ½ teaspoon of natural baby food (human baby food) of any of these vegetables. Again, it must be all natural and nothing but the vegetable with water sufficient for processing. Nutritional Overview Please don't hesitate in getting help for your companion right now
Expert:  August Abbott, CAS replied 1 year ago.
If it's absolutely impossible to get to help right away, this might help support your bird until you can, but there are no guarantees I'm afraid Get the bird in a safe, enclosed, secure environment where movement is limited for their own safety and comfort. You'll want a brooder box. This is a sort of ‘intensive care unit' at home. ---For a makeshift brooder, use a small box lined with soft clothes like tee shirts.---Use a thick, clean sock and fill it ¾ with plain, raw white rice. Knot the end and microwave it for about 1 ½ minutes. Shake it afterwards to distribute the heat and be sure it's not too hot. Tuck this in just under the cloths.---A heating pad under one half of the box is also helpful, set on low. This is one of the few times I’d ever use both heat sources if necessary to maintain incubation temp (90-105 degrees).--- If ever using an electric source for heating anything in anyway, please be vigilant and constantly double checking carefully.--- Gently drape a light cover over this box to further help hold heat in and keep light low. --- You must be on your way to professional care. --- You may offer a few drops of sugar water to the side of their beak with your finger or by eye dropper; or a dab of corn syrup, maple syrup or bit of natural jam/jelly to help with blood sugar levels.--- I wouldn’t force fluids or food though until a professional has agreed it’s required and shown you how. The last thing we need is aspiration pneumonia.