Oldsmobile Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi, My name is ***** ***** for the delay.I will do my best to assist you.
does it seem like the gauges shut off first?before the engine dies?
does it always start right back?
do you get any trouble codes?
you dont have an obd2 scanner?
from the way you explain the problem.is the ignition switch..i have seen the switch do this
try this before replacing the switch.
remove the wire harnesses from the pcm[computer and the bcm[body control module] and clean the terminals with electronic parts cleaner,,then reinstall the harnesses,,sometimes the terminals can corrode and cause a silimiler problem as yours
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you are very welcome
HOW MUCH FUEL PRESSURE DOES IT HAVE?
please stand by,,i will opt out,,perhaps one of the other guys has a better idea of what is going on here.
someone will be right with you
I see the ECM1 fuse in the underhood fuse block feeds the crank shaft position sensor, the fuel injectors, ignition control module and ignition coil. So hook a voltmeter up to that fuse and when the next time you loose everything, see if also you are loosing voltage at that fuse. At least that is a start to help figure this out, then depending on whether or not you loose voltage there, you can move the voltmeter in one direction or the other and test again.
Also, you don't have to have the engine running to check fuel pressure. Once you turn the key to run, the fuel pump should run for 2 seconds.
Also, what security reset or relearn procedure did you use and is there even a security light or anti-theft message on or flashing past bulb check, about 10 seconds after first turning the key to run?
If not, don't worry about it bit if so try a spare key or clean that key and try again.
If you have no spark right now, first check that ECM 1 fuse.
Then if the fuse is ok, wiggle it and then wiggle he wires on the crankshaft position sensor also and try again.
Another thing is you can purchase an actron pocket code reader for about $30.
I would suggest you actually mount that voltmeter where you can see it under the dash and run the wires to that fuse and ground, that way you can watch it all the time.
If the ECM 1 fuse is loosing voltage then move the voltmeter to the gauges fuse cause both of them fuses are fed from the ignition switch and if the gauges fuse also looses voltage you may just have a faulty ignition switch. The gauges fuse is in the I/P fuse block.
IF so, before condemning the ignition switch move the voltmeter to the fuse feeding the ignition switch and check again, the IGN A fuse under the hood, so if it's ok there then and the gauges and ECM 1 fuse loose power than it is the ignition switch or a connection at the ignition switch harness.
Even before the IGN A fuse is a mega 175 a fuse.
Here are those wiring diagrams,
That ECM 1 fuse also feeds the pcm which in turn activates that fuel pump relay.
So, as of right now, is there a security or anti-theft message remaining on or flashing past bulb check, 10 seconds after the key is first turned to run?
Does the fuel pump run for 2 seconds and does that ECM 1 fuse have voltage with the key on run right now, engine on or off?
Do you have spark?
Actually you would be able to tell if the IGN A fuse had voltage, if the starter works or not.
Why don't you just answer them questions that you probably already know the answer to?
Does the fuel pump run for 2 seconds?
Does the fuel pump run for 2 seconds after you first turn the key to run, before you turn the key to start?
You mean a voltmeter?
Ok, let me know when you have it and are ready. I will be online here all day long, until late like 10pm or so.
Don't forget to rate me well, so I get credit. If you don't, the deposit you made will just sit there and I won't get my share of it.
k, I am signing off here very shortly, so I will check in on you tomorrow if you still need help.
After all that I said, why is that the only fuse you check?
What about the ECM1 fuse?
The IGN A fuse is supposed to be hot all the time. what you are looking for is where it looses voltage when the problems are occurring, so you have to either wait to it happens again or wiggle wires trying to recreate it and then test.
Don't test any fuse until you have the problem, then check what I said. Checking when things are working ok, will not find any problem. You have to wait until the problem is present.
Get another voltmeter cause that voltage is very important. Let me know when you get the actual voltages.
ECMB powers the fuel pump relay and fuel pump so if it is low, the fuel pump probably won't work or work very poorly.
The ECMB fuse also powers the PCM and that is major, cause it has to power so many things.
The only thing I see before that ECM B fuse is that 171a battery mega fuse and that mega fuse also feeds that IGN A fuse so see if either of those 2 fuses are also low, and make sure the battery does have 12 volts.
That was a 175a fuse not 171a, typo.