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240sx harness wires are & to knock sensor harness, which

240sx harness wires are brown...
240sx harness wires are brown & green to knock sensor harness, which uses 1 wire to sensor. hook 1 wire to Brown? or Green?
JA: Okay, I'll connect you to the mechanic to discuss this further with you. Before I do, is there anything else you want him to know?
Customer: No
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Answered in 13 minutes by:
7/24/2017
david craig
david craig, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Nissan
Satisfied Customers: 4,211
Experience: owner/mechanic at 3D Automotive
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Hi Im David, what year id the vehicle?

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are you there?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
1990 240SX replaced 12Valve engine with Ka 24de twin cam 16 valve from a later 240SX.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
The shop that did the swap never hooked up the knock sensor.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I had to remove the harness connector to hook up the sensor, but it didn't clear code 34 knock sensor.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I ordered a new sensor which reads about 3 to 5 M ohms. & new harness. Rather than disassemble the intake manifold, I've bolted the sensor to the block on the drivers side.

I dont have any information on the old of a vehicle. sorry, I will open this up to others who will have that

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
now I have a single-wire harness that I need to splice to the harness that goes to the ECU. ECU has a brown and a yellow wire. Both seem to be at engine ground.
George H.
George H., ASE Certified Technician
Category: Nissan
Satisfied Customers: 18,971
Experience: ASE Master 15+ years
Verified

Hello I will help,

I think we will find the brown is a shield around the sensor signal wire but give me a minute or two to check my database to be certain.

Do you have the old sensor or is it still under the manifold?

How did you bolt the new sensor to the block? It is very picky about placement and mounting along with tightening torque.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
old sensor is it still under the manifold
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
How did you bolt the new sensor to the block? 8 mm bolt to a blind hole near rear of block.

Can you post a picture of the mounting?

On first look I am not seeing a knock sensor on the 1990, did you change the computer to match the newer engine?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I did not use a torque wrench, but I was fairly gentle on torque.
I have a torque wrench.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
RZT did change the computer to sort of match the newer engine?

OK, any guess what year it might be?

I will look at a few years to see but it will take a few minutes

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
1st 2wap was to a 1992 Ka 24de. 2nd swap to 2nd Ka 24de was '92 or '94.
I can give you the ECU ser. numbers in a few minutes. Raining too hard to take pictures now.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Est 10-25 min. of hard rain.

I see the knock sensor was introduced in '93 and had a white wire to the computer with a shield. The serial number won't help unless I can google the number and have it come up but slim chance. Checked 93, 94, 95, 96 and 97. All have a single white wire to the computer from the sensor with a shield around the wire connected to ground. I understand how you mounted the sensor, in some years it was on the passenger side of the block so I suppose that is where your old one is.

I don't need the picture, I will check for a torque value and keep looking at the electrical diagrams. Please allow me 10 minutes.

Thanks

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
The ECU bears a no. A11-B45 G71
NISSAN / INFINITI ECU CORE IDENTIFICATION LIST at:
http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/ecu-id.pdf
shows:
A11-B45 G71 94 240SX [turbo] N[No] [transmission] A [in the Reg column] F[ederal emissions] S13-KA24DE [part no] 23710-53F11

That shows as being a '91 which does not have a knock sensor. Where are you seeing that the computer has a green and brown wire for the sensor?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
The only wires from the harness near where the knock sensor harness emerges are a green and brown wire on their own sub-harness. Rain has stopped.

OK, so you don't know that the wires actually run to the computer. I don't think those are for the knock sensor. Generally KS wiring is always shielded due to the tiny signal it produces. You want to keep the electrical noise out. I think you will find that you need the harness and computer to match the engine and it sounds like you have a mismatch of years.

Let me know how I can help you with this

Thanks

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Pictures soon
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Sounds like I should check the engine ser. no. for the year?

I don't know that the serial number will help, you know it is newer than '93. If you don't get a computer to match the engine there is no need for the sensor. In that location the sensor will not return the correct signal the computer is looking for.

See if you can find the year using the sites you posted before. I think you have done more research on these engines than I have, I only fix them. A 240sx forum is probably the best source at this time.

Once you get the engine year get a computer to match it, you might be able to make this one work but it will never be right.

With a diagram of the computer and an engine that matches you can make the harness work, one for that year of computer will be needed so the connector plugs into the computer and all the wires are where they should be.

I need to go out for a couple of hours but I will check back to see if you have further questions

Thanks

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Probably a 1994 engine.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Harness was probably original to car with old single cam engine. I suspect I should run some shielded cable directly from the knock sensor thru firewall to ECU. I have downloaded a manual, but it is images only, so I can't search the text easily.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Is the ECU pin diagram in "ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ...EL" ?

You are going to have to replace the harness so you have the correct connector for the '94 computer you need. This computer does not know a knock sensor from a spark plug

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Which ECU? '91 or '94?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
39;94 according to ECU ser. #

OK, I can provide that, it is 5 images and the connector view

click here

Let me know if that is what you need

Thanks

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I just saw that some of this number ECU were used in '94. What transmission, is it turbo and is it federal or calif emissions. I know this is not the engine from this vehicle but you can tell me the trans and if it has a turbo. I don't think I see a turbo but what trans is it?

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I assumed that they had a different connector for the 91 without the knock, they just programmed it out and the connector should be the same but the wires may not be in the same holes, that needs to be checked. Do you think this is the harness from the '91 or is it the original?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
The Mechanic who did the 1st swap thinks: orig. harness.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
A11-B45 G71 94 240SX
[turbo] N[No]
[transmission] Auto
[in the Reg column] Federal emissions - not CA
S13-KA24DE [part no] 23710-53F11
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I need to go to my office now. I will research further & advise you of results. Hopeful of no rain tomorrow.

If it was a '90 then the connector would be different and not fit the computer. Does it fit?

Good, this computer should work if you make it happy. Run a shielded wire to pin #27 of the computer, I don't know if you have extra pin connectors but the wiring and the connection needs to be solid. The signal is generated by vibration inside the sensor so it is tiny.

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I am in another city for a training event and trade show the rest of the week. I am not taking my data base with me but I think everything needed is posted on this thread or uploaded to the computer I am taking so I will watch for your post if you have further questions tomorrow.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Thanks!!! I will keep you advised.

If you look in the computer connector and find it filled with a green wire at #27 then check end to end and see if that is the wire at your sensor. Maybe someone already ran the wire for you. brown is ground for sure.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I'll see better in the light of day.
What is the torque on the Sensor bolt?

I checked several years and no torque is listed so leave it at your reasonable torque as you installed it.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
wire at 27 is white un-shielded with grey bands
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Green w/ silver bands runs past ECU between harnesses.
Brown w/ silver bands goes to pin "34 Start signal"; 0 volts ignition "on"; "Battery +" volts w/ ignition switch at "start" position.

You will need to find the end of 27. You can cut the whitewater and run a new one with the shield but you need to know if it was hooked to something to avoid causing a problem if it is connected,

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I did not cut wire at 27 (white un-shielded with grey bands). I merely stripped open a small piece of insulation and soldered 2 conductors (Blk & wht) of a shielded 4 conductor cable. I soldered the shielding wire to a previously cut ground wire in the harness. Then I ran the shielded wire through the perimeter of a hole that seems to drain something thru a rubber hose to the road. (The Air Conditioner was removed in the original engine swap.) I grounded the shielding to a valve cover bolt and soldered the 1 wire from the connector to the 2 conductors of the shielded cable; connected the cable to the knock sensor which had read 3 to 5 M ohms.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Engine ran rough. Code 55 (no codes) changed back to 34 knock sensor. I could cut the knock sensor off the harness at the ECU and see if that fixes the missing. Junk yard notes says this came from a 1992 240SX. But Ser. # A11-B45 G71 info says 1994 according to hBp://jimwol"echnology.com/wolfpdf/ecu-id.pdf
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I wondered why every time I looked at the chart, the year changed. It depended on which of 3 listings in different placed I had scrolled to.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
places
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
ECU A11-B45 G71 was also used in 1991.

That is what confused me at first, they used different programming but the same computer and the fact it codes for a knock sensor means it is '93 or later. That is why I asked if there was anything in the 27 hole, that you have a white wire means the harness is '93 or later. You should cut the white wire, you don't know what is on the other end and that may interfere with the signal. Sounds like your shield should work. You have 2 pins at the connector, do you know which is the signal and which is the shield?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
The cheap connector I got from Amazon saved cost by omitting the ground pin. So I grounded the shielding to a valve cover bolt.
I soldered the 1 wire from the connector to the conductors of the shielded cable. I finally connected the cable to the knock sensor {which had read 3 to 5 M ohms.)
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I worry that the White w/ grey bands wire from 27 may do something essential. The car ran well without the knock sensor. But not with the knock sensor attached to the White w/ grey bands wire. Do you know what that White w/ grey bands wire from 27 does?
The same PIN number ECU was used on some cars from 1991 to 1994. (I found yet a fourth year (1994) on the chart, which has many ECUs per year.). Junk yard notes on my ECU indicate it's from a 1992 240SX.

As far as the diagrams go the white wire runs direct to the knock sensor. You said you didn't cut it past the point you spliced into it. You should and make sure any shielding that may be around it is not shorting the center conductor.

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A 1992 should not have the programming to code for a knock sensor so I don't know if it is correct

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I cut the White w/ grey bands wire from 27 into the mystery part of the harness.
Ran well until mass airflow connector went intermittent. I suspect that was the problem all along.
When we had changed the Distributor, to correct the "Crank Position Sensor or ECU" code (Light on in mode I) my mechanic noticed wiggling MAF connector changed rough idle. Local parts guys couldn't match connector. So I went to RZT who had done the swap. They rigged a connector with fresh female pins. RZT had suggested a new MAF sensor & connector when they fixed connector. Improvised connector worked great for 40 miles. Afterwards, showed MAF codes but I cleared the MAF codes. After I'd rigged the knock sensor, rough idle returned.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Test drive: Rough idle affected by wiggling MAF connector. Smooth for a short time, but rough & stalling returned.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
now to order:
a MAF Sensor; &
a Connector with the right number of pins.
Or ask RZT to do it for me.

Sounds like you have the knock sensor sorted out then?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I think so. I gave you a 5 star rating.
I'll call Cardone now about the MAF sensor. Some of these and connectors have 4 pins, as mine does. But the most available connectors have 4 pins.
http://www.wiringspecialties.com/l.html has a
S13 SR20 MAFS Modular Connector
SKU: WSP-S13SRMAFCNT which as 4 pins.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
The cheapest approach would be to buy a 4-pin connector and (if that doesn't fix idle), buy the MAF. Have you used Wiring Specialties connectors?
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Correction: "But the most available connectors have THREE pins."

The link takes me to their page but not to a product. I have not used them.

I don't see where you completed the rating, it is still open on this end

For now can you use nylon wire ties to hold the connector in place and tighten the pin contact as needed so you have a solid connection?

George H.
George H., ASE Certified Technician
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Satisfied Customers: 18,971
Experience: ASE Master 15+ years
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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
George H.: "31 July 2017 I don't see where you completed the rating, it is still open on this end"
See if I got the rating in now. There should be a review too.
Tapping on MAF sensor causes hesitation. Car runs with MAF disconnected. YouTube says both are symptoms of bad MAF.

You did get the rating, thank you!

It does sound like the MAF but I wanted you to be sure it was not just the loose connector by securing it as best you can and then seeing if it stumbles when you tap it.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I drove stumbling to the market. Pushing in the connector smoothed it for a while, but in 3 blocks I was stalling at Stop signs again. Tapping on the sensor itself caused hesitation. Disconnecting the sensor did not stop the engine, which ran poorly.
Amazon has the $105 Cardone
https://www.amazon.com/Cardone-74-10062-Remanufactured-Airflow-Sensor/dp/B000CICI1E/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1501476838&vehicle=1992-67-872------------3-0&sr=1-1&ymm=1992%3Anissan%3A240sx
with a 4 conductor connector [my MAF has 4 conductors]
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
For $38 there's a new MAF with a 3-conductor connector:
https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-240SX-Altima-Sensor-22680-9E000/dp/B008ASY6FY/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1501475958&vehicle=1992-67-872-------------0&sr=1-1-fkmr0&ymm=1992%3Anissan%3A240sx&keywords=1992+240sx+mass+air+flow+sensor+connector
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I suspect the connector and the MAF are both bad. RZT used crimp connectors to refurbish the MAF connector.
But how do I order both MAF sensor & connector & make sure both have the same 3 pin or 4 pin configuration?
Some say the pictures are not always reliable.

You would have to contact the seller to be certain of the pins. You can go with three or four pins just match them up. In your four pin connector only three are used correct?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
4 male pins emerge from the MAF sensor.
3 wires emerge from the harness.
RZT split the harness ground wire into 2 conductors in the the back of the connector, using 4 wires, into the back of the connector.

Can you wire it as shown in the diagram below? That should be right

Click here for diagram

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
RZT ran the black-white (grey?) from the connector to ylw on the harness.
Blk to blk &
white to white
Yellow from the connector terminates.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I was in error when I said: "RZT split the harness ground wire into 2 conductors in the the back of the connector, using 4 wires, into the back of the connector." See photo above.

Can you look on the computer and see what colors you have in #16 and #17? Are they black and white?

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The black/white wire should show 12 volts with the key on.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
That will take some time. I think that requires dismounting ECU connector from ECU so I can see the pin layout.

That is the way to be sure of where the wires go. You are faced with wiring that does not match the diagram so you have to see if it will do what is shown. If it is functionally correct. 12volts on the yellow wire with the key on and the black and white wires run to 16 and 17 in the connector at the computer.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I have ordered:
the Cordone MAF Sensor w/ 4-pin output from Amazon; and
4 pin - 1 x S13 SR20 MAFS Modular Connector from Wiring Specialties.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
colors you have in #16 = Red w/ silver bands
and #17 = Green w/ silver bands
Are they black and white? No
There is much black tape wrapped for a couple of feet around the yellow, white, & black wires that end at the MAF connector.
Black at MAF sensor is battery ground.
It's too much work to un-tape back to the real harness wires.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
The new MAF sensor should arrive by tomorrow.
Friday, I'll install assuming:
that it worked well since March 2015 as wires are now configured.
that it worked well last week for 40 miles as wires are now configured.
Then I'll plug in the ECU and: read codes; Clear codes; & test drive.
Then I'll try to get the knock sensor wire thru the firewall in a way that doesn't cause water leaks to right footwell.

That certainly does not match what the diagrams show or what you have in the wire harness. If it worked before I guess you can test the yellow and black to be sure they are power and ground and connect it the same as it was.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I plan to solder iron the harness to connector at the MAF Sensor, so I'll leave the ECU unconnected while I solder (to protect ECU from stray 110 VAC).
Voltage checks after soldering.

That would be fine, if you use a pencil type iron I would not have any concern for voltage at the tip but if it is already disconnected no reason to connect until you have the MAF connector sorted out.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I put in the new MAF sensor without changing the connector. Engine ran smoothly. Tapping MAF didn't hurt running. Disconnecting MAF stopped engine indicating MAF sensor was OK.
Codes:
12 -MAF &
34 knock sensor.
I cleared the codes - code 55
Then I ran engine. Code 34 knock sensor only. Light on in mode I (indicating Crank position sensor or ECU).

So the knock code came back?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
I'll get the car on the road today to let the ECU do its learning curve w/ the new sensor.

Hope that wiorks, you may need to put the sensor in the right place

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
GH: So the knock code came back?
Yes

OK, let me know what happens after you learn it

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Disclaimer: Information in questions, answers, and other posts on this site ("Posts") comes from individual users, not JustAnswer; JustAnswer is not responsible for Posts. Posts are for general information, are not intended to substitute for informed professional advice (medical, legal, veterinary, financial, etc.), or to establish a professional-client relationship. The site and services are provided "as is" with no warranty or representations by JustAnswer regarding the qualifications of Experts. To see what credentials have been verified by a third-party service, please click on the "Verified" symbol in some Experts' profiles. JustAnswer is not intended or designed for EMERGENCY questions which should be directed immediately by telephone or in-person to qualified professionals.

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