Nissan Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hello my name is ***** ***** thank you for your question.
When the car is running, or last running, did you have a Service Engine Soon light on? Also what size engine is this?
If it's been sitting that long, the gas could have gone bad. Did you happen to scan the car for codes?
oh.. ok.. Try this. Unplug the MAF sensor and see if it will start and idle with it unplugged. Do not drive it like this, this is only a test.
Let me know
How much gas was in the tank and how did you get the old gas out? Are the spark plugs getting soaked with fuel?
lets pull a few plugs and see if they are soaked with fuel and let me know
let me know what you find
Well I would want to check for Spark and injector pulse once it doesn't start. I have seen also if you install After Market Cam or Crank Sensors that it could not throw a code yet not allow the car to start. So I would check those as a basic and let me know
These cars are very sensitive to after market electrical parts. I am sure the MAF sensor being after market won't operate properly, but even unplugged the car should start and idle. So I am sure it's not a MAF sensor issue. I do know that these year Sentra's did have Ecm issues. Some may even have chip keys. Do you have a security light ON solid when the key is in the ON position?
Why was the car sitting for 3 years? Any particular reason? Was that disclosed to you?
Hmm.. I am wondering if there is something wrong with the intake timing operation.
Do you have the ability to check injector pulse? or fuel pressure? I know you replaced the pump, I am just trying to cover all possible ends since you have no codes..
Spark plug leads meaning the coils?
That is good, but injector pulse is the key thing now to check. Cause that is what opens and closes the injectors to allow fuel to the engine. This is normally determined by using a Noid light. Also did you happen to check all fuses with a test light to make sure they are all good?
With a test light you are not just verifying the fuse is good, you are verifying that it's getting power as well. So that is certainly one thing you need to check
That you need a noid light. Cause the pulse is determined by the computer.
When you are checking fuses, it doesn't have to run. You just turn the key to the ON position and then check all fuses. Inside the car and under the hood
You just need to unplug one of the injectors and it plug into the connector. Then you would simply just turn the engine over and monitor the noid light and see if it flashes. I shared a video on it for you
you have a noid light?
Well then things are starting to point to the computer if you have injector pulse and spark.
The Evap system won't cause any type of running issue.
Since there is no codes, I would try using a scanner to monitor engine signals to see if all are reading properly. Monitor intake timing especially. If the timing jumped, it could cause this as well. Or if you have a intake timing sprocket acting up. That would be the next thing I would be checking if everything else is good.
either something is going with the intake timing operation ( intake sprocket ) or something with the computer is causing this issue.
example, if you have a intake timing sprocket sticking or stuck in a advanced position, it can make it sound like the car wants to start but won't. It could also allow it to start and as soon as the sprocket wants to operate, stall. Which could be what you are experiencing. But a scanner is required to monitor the intake timing while the engine runs for that short time, or monitor it when the engine is turning over.
That is a MAF sensor code, indicating the sensor is getting low voltage or has a internal issue. But if you unplug it, the car would run in it's default state. Since it doesn't run, there could still be something up the MAF sensor, but there is something else keeping the car from starting which is what I was trying to isolate with you.
So where I am thinking now is either something timing related, or computer related.