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Jake
Jake, Nissan Technician
Category: Nissan
Satisfied Customers: 4001
Experience:  Experienced collision repair technician, Pulaski Tech graduate and DSM hobbyist.
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2006 Altima 3.5 - keeps blowing fuse #35 in fuse junction

Customer Question

2006 Altima 3.5 - keeps blowing fuse #35 in fuse junction box at R.H. front of vehicle. Found TSB-NTB06-075 about broken battery cable, and the cable was broken and the coils were melted. Replaced cable end and all coils(with spark plugs). vehicle still has the same problem. Leads me to believe there is a wire shorted out in the harness, or certainly something shorted. Also with key on, coils unplugged, and new fuse in, you can plug in all the coils individually and the fuse won't blow until you plug in ign. coil for cyl #5. But if you have key off with new fuse in , with coil #5 unpluged and then try to crank it, it will blow this same fuse.
JA: Have you had any recent electrical work done on the car? Have you checked the circuit?
Customer: The vehicle was brought from another garage to me with this no start condition, no electrical work has been done to my knowledge
JA: Are you hoping to fix this yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: This is a repair garage, and i listed the work i had done in my opening reply
JA: Anything else you think the mechanic should know?
Customer: that' all I have right now
JA: OK. Got it. I'm sending you to a secure page on JustAnswer so you can place the $5 fully-refundable deposit now. While you're filling out that form, I'll tell the Nissan Mechanic about your situation and then connect you two.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Nissan
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

Hey there, thanks for the question.

fuse 35 at the passengers headlight area? the ipdm?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

well that's certainly a crappy fuse to chase a short from considering it runs to the coil side of the ECM relay and powers most all the engine control sensors.

Luckily when we see this most of the damage is strictly done on the ign system part of the circuit only.

Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

so your saying the fuse will blow if coil 5 is plugged in regardless of if you crank the engine or not? but if you unplug cylinder 5 and crank the engine it will still blow correct?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

thanks, ***** ***** am back.

new coils correct? all new coils not just ones you noticed melting?

Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

nevermind you said all coils in original response. my apologies was helping multiple people but I am here now.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
all new coils , some of them are getting hot to the touch with the key on & fuse not blowing
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

This concerning actually since you replaced all the coils and the ground, because it can back feed the ECM and damage it.

Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

do you have injector pulse?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
not sure
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

sometimes an easy way to tell, is you will have power to the injectors but there is no injector pulse

Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

and this will indicate the ECM got damaged in the process.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I will check , hang on
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

k, i'll be here

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have injector pulse. cylinders 4 & 6 are firing coils without getting hot. I have coils 1,3,5,& 2 disconnected
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Certainly acts like wires shorted/melted in harness to me. Considering the negative cable was broken & that the coils were all melted. I'm thinking if it was pulling enough amps to melt the coils , then it probably melted some wires in the harness. The problem is were?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Also since coils 1,3,5, & 2 are getting hot with just key on indicates something shorted in the harness to me, what do you think?
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

it's possible, just generally uncommon compared to the ECM and coil themselves.

did you replace the ground or just the end?

Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

the only ideal way to check the wires is with your meter

Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

i can help with terminal references if you need.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Just the end , the cable looks good and the vehicle cranks at normal speed
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have Alldata & Identifix with all the pertinent wiring info. I was hoping someone had run into this before and could tell me where in this massive, well armored harness, the problem wires would most likely be. Opening up this harness would be a nightmare.
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

i have seen this many times, none of them in which the harness was the issue

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
could the ECM be causing the shorting? And if not what else?
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

i wouldn't even begin to open that harness unless i got an abnormal reading when ohming the wires

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
According to the wiring diagram, the ECM doesn't control the ground circuits to the coils
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

i have seen it happen from a cable that's not even broken, just heavily rusted, hence the reason i asked to be safe.

Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

no, thats the injectors

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I can always run another ground, but the vehicle cranks normally, and a cable problem wouldn't cause 4 coils out of six to get hot with only the key on.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Like I said earlier , coils 4 & 6 are firing with the others unplugged
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

sorry, trying to see the relevance here in this wiring diagram that could effect the mentioned coils only.

Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

how does the condensor look, should be right ont he valve cover by the oil cap?

Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

specifically running off terminal 2

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
In my mind if two of the coils are working with the remaining unplugged, and the other get hot and none work when they are plugged in, then that indicates something shorting out. I was thinking that something would be the red hot wires running next to the black ground wires in the harness next to each other. i mean if it got hot enough to melt the coils, and is getting them hot with the key on now, wouldn't that indicate that they are shorted together ?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I'll check the condenser & get back with you soon
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
What does this nissan condenser look like? Is it exposed , or wrapped in the harness?
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

should be partially exposed, running in the harness at the top of the valve cover

Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

i think from memory its on the same valve cover as the oil filler cap

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I found a small rectangular box taped inside of harness at the valve cover close to oil cap , and it has a black & red wire going to it. I think this is it. According to specs it's supposed to ohm out at above 1 ohm, but it tests as open. Also the wires going to it are partially exposed at the back side of the plug.
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

thats it

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It tests as open, no continuity at all, and the wires going into the back side of the plug have partial insulation missing.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
i guess i need one of these huh?
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

yes you should have a resistance reading between the 2 terminals . 1 Megaohm

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It shows open - no connection whatsoever
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

there like 10 bucks or less i think

Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

I'm showing $9.35

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Apparently an only Nissan part from what i can tell...?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Dealer only?
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

I have never seen an aftermarket one on these cars, but that doesn't mean they don't exist

Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

most dealers will likely have a couple in stock, just call first.

otherwise can usually have within a day.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
okay, I will try this then. Hopefully that's it. Thanks for your help
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

no problem, just come back with an update or if you need more help please.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Do you have a part #?
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

one sec ill go look it up

Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

you got a VIN? i'd prefer to use a vin if i can

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
part # ***** is what i came up with, is that right?
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

Thats what I am showing as well

Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

makes sense also, since it being open prevents terminal 2 of the condensor from running to the solder connection for ground, which is the same connection ignition coil for cylinder 5 runs to

Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

anyways, let me know how you make out.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
based on the condition of the wires going into the back of the plug for the condenser, i believe that is where the short was at, and that the condenser was just fried in the process
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Well that didn't fix it, i was so sure between the wires and the resister that was it , I am at a loss really
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
If I disconnect the ECM
the fuse won't blow, reconnect it & it immediately blows. same fuse
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

well that's expected, because when the ECM is plugged in the ECM relay can then switch on and send power to the coils with the key to ON position.

When the ECM is unplugged you shouldn't have power to the coils at all.

Now if your saying with the ECM plugged in and the key to OFF it's still blowing the fuse, then that's a whole different scenario.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
only when key is on, blows immediately
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I could still have a wiring harness problem then...?
Expert:  Jake replied 1 year ago.

yes, that is correct. could still be the harness possibly.