Dash light doesn’t turn on, lights and signals don’t turn…

Most likely if you use a test light and test both sides of the fuse that you will find your #3 fuse is blown in your fuse box.
Print out the attached wiring diagram in high quality so that you can have it with you.

Most likely you have a pinched wire on that turn signal that will need to be repaired before you replace the fuse.

I have a way of finding a short and I will post it for you.

How it works:
The fuse blows in a shorted condition because it becomes the load.

So we replace the fuse with a load and since it is a light we can use it as a visual aid because we can see what it is doing.
A blown fuse doesn't tell you much so this is a great way I have found to find shorts:

When the short is happening, you can put an old headlight bulb across the fuse connection. By using jumper wires by hooking the left side of the headlight connection on one side of the fuse..
Now hook the right and top terminal of the bulb at the same time of the headlight hooked up across the other side of the fuse connection that is blown.

When it is shorted the headlight will be at full brightness and the lights and meters will still be out.

You can then start to unplug the items that are not working and when the headlight goes dimmer or out you have found the item causing the short.

You can do all of this with a few jumper wires and the small diagram I attached.

If it smashed the right handlebar, you probably have a short in the right switch harness especially if the throttle sticks now you know it knocked the right switch out of place.

Well the #3 fuse supplies all of the power to those items.

I would bet the horn doesn't work either.

Use your headlight on your bike to jump across the fuse using this diagram with jumper leads.

With the light hooked up, be sure to move your wires and switches around slowly and forcely while watching the headlight.

When the light goes dim you will see the other lights turn on dimly but you need to find the bad wire so take your time and only cut the cover off the wire if needed.

Anything that touched the ground could be causing the short.

Alright.

Well, it would have to be shorted to something.

That is a factory connection.

Not if they were taped up.

Did you get the light to go out when you unplugged it?

Don't cut the harness apart anymore unless when you bend the wires the light goes bright or goes out or dim.

Mine can be made with two jumper leads using your headlight and it works....
CLICK HERE

Click the CLICK HERE

You can get a set at your local auto parts.

Alright.

Yea, you can just make something up with two wires.

Reread my earlier post and follow the directions.

Take the fuse out, and you can use a paper clip, cut in half to hook the clips to the fuse box terminals by shoving the paper clip into the terminals.
You cannot let them touch.

Was the headlight full brightness?

Let me look at the diagram.

The horn is powered with the black wire, and then powers the horn through the light green wire.

Weird, it should have went brighter if it was shorted.
Pull the wire off the horn and try it again.

When the head light goes dim, check the other lights as they should have come on dimly.

That is backwards.
You mean the dash lights work now in the normal condition?

That means that a fuse should not blow out.

This is the #2 fuse, correct?

Start disconnecting things like switches and every that is not working and watch the head light.

Leave them disconnected, and don't worry about motor sensors and things yet.

What was it?
Don't keep me in suspense.

Yep, it shifted over.