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I have a 2007 Kawasaki Prairie 360 4X4 that I can not get to…

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I have a 2007...

I have a 2007 Kawasaki Prairie 360 4X4 that I can not get to stop sputtering when I rev it. At first, I thought it was in Limp Mode, however since it will go into***** I don't think thats the issue.
So far this is what I have tried:1. Bought/replaced CDI box.
2. Bought/replaced speed sensor.
3. Even thought this doesn’t pertain to the limp mode issue,
I did replace the 4x4 actuator since it had went out on me on my last trip.
5. I also had to replace the 4x4 rocker switch.
6. Completely cleaned and took apart carb and cleaned filter.
~ All the fuses check out fine.
~ Battery is fully charged.
~ All the wiring is good as far as I can see.
~ The belt cover switch is on the right position.
~ It goes into gear fine.
~ I reset the check belt light, multiple times and it still flashes and stays in limp mode still, but like I said it goes into 4wheel drive and its not suppose to if its in limp mode???
( the reset method I used was from the Youtube videos I found)I am at a complete loss and don’t know what else to do. I feel like Im missing something simple.
I would appreciate any and all advice or suggestions. Maybe another process to get it out of limp mode? Is there
another area I need to focus on? Look deeper into wiring issues? Pinched wires? Bad replacement parts? I have tried everything I know to try.
I am desperate! HELP!

Mechanic's Assistant: Does the sensor have a wire-wrapped magnet? If so, have you checked it with an ohmmeter?

What sensor?

Mechanic's Assistant: What is the model of your '07 motorcycle?

2007 Kawasaki Bayou 360 4x4 ATV

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your bike yourself? What have you tried so far?

I have a 2007 Kawasaki Prairie 360 4X4 that I can not get to stop sputtering when I rev it. At first, I thought it was in Limp Mode, however since it will go into***** I don't think thats the issue. So far this is what I have tried: 1. Bought/replaced CDI box. 2. Bought/replaced speed sensor. 3. Even thought this doesn’t pertain to the limp mode issue, I did replace the 4x4 actuator since it had went out on me on my last trip. 5. I also had to replace the 4x4 rocker switch. 6. Completely cleaned and took apart carb and cleaned filter. ~ All the fuses check out fine. ~ Battery is fully charged. ~ All the wiring is good as far as I can see. ~ The belt cover switch is on the right position. ~ It goes into gear fine. ~ I reset the check belt light, multiple times and it still flashes and stays in limp mode still, but like I said it goes into 4wheel drive and its not suppose to if its in limp mode??? ( the reset method I used was from the Youtube videos I found) I am at a complete loss and don’t know what else to do. I feel like Im missing something simple. I would appreciate any and all advice or suggestions. Maybe another process to get it out of limp mode? Is there another area I need to focus on? Look deeper into wiring issues? Pinched wires? Bad replacement parts? I have tried everything I know to try. I am desperate! HELP!

Submitted: 1 year ago.Category: Motorcycle
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Answered in 6 hours by:
4/2/2017
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago
Louie
Louie, Technician
Category: Motorcycle
Satisfied Customers: 13,487
Experience: 25+ yrs. experience
Verified

Hi and welcome to JustAnswer; a Q & A site and I’m Louie. Sorry you had to wait awhile but I’ll do my best to help.

Initially, let's try check and review the other basics. Proposed preliminary tries (if have not been done):

  • • remove the spark plug and determine burn color;
  • • measure battery voltage when idling and when attempting to rev;
  • • or better yet, charge battery and run the Prairie with the regulator temporarily disconnected;
  • • ensure original air box + air filter is fitted correctly with no possibility of an air leak;
  • • drain tank and replace with fresh fuel (even if just to eliminate as a potential suspect);
  • • drain carb bowl to determine quantity and quality of fuel.
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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ok. #1 Spark Plug burn color is light blue, very little yellow. #2 With machine off the battery voltage is 12.2. With machine idling it is 13.8 voltage. With machine attempting to rev, 13.6 voltage. With voltage regulator disconnected, 12.2 voltage. Voltage regulator, is warm to the touch after running it for 5 minutes, not sure if that is normal. #3 Air Filter does not seal properly, have new air filter ordered. Held the old filter tight up against the air inlet to properly seal it off tight, but still runs the same bad way ( rough, sputtering etc at 3/4 rpm and higher). #4. Drained fuel tank, fuel looks good no signs of water or ethanol. Reinstalled with ethanol free fuel. #5 The carb bowl was full, no signs of sediment or ethanol condition problems in bowl.
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

Appreciate the additional information.

On:

  1. Spark Plug burn color is light blue, very little yellow - sorry not the spark color, the burn color; black, brown white;
  2. With machine off the battery voltage is 12.2 - a bit low as was expecting ~12.5V;
  3. With machine idling it is 13.8 voltage - high as normally it would be ~ 12.9V when idling;
  4. With machine attempting to rev, 13.6 voltage - low as this wiuld be ~14.5V but not exceeding 15.0V;
  5. With voltage regulator disconnected, 12.2 voltage - consider having the battery LOAD TESTed (even if just to eliminate it as a potential suspect);
  6. Voltage regulator, is warm to the touch after running it for 5 minutes, not sure if that is normal - yes IF the battery is weak;
  7. Air Filter does not seal properly - would be equal to an airleak resulting to a lean mix;
  8. runs the same bad way ( rough, sputtering etc at 3/4 rpm and higher) - possibilities; lean, airleak, over/under voltage, jumping spark, fuel starvation.
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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Sorry the spark plug burn color is brown/black.
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

Thanks.

And have you tried running to check for "...sputtering when I rev it...." with the regulator temporarily disconnected?

I am still concerned with the air leak as that is a likely cause (among others) of the flat spot/hesitancy @ "...3/4 rpm and higher)..."

Have you considered/tried raising the needle in the carb?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
1. Yes, I have tried running it with the regulator disconnected and it still does the same thing.
2. I agree about the airbox.
3. I have not raised the needle yet on the carb.
Just a footnote I wanted to add to all this. Prior to me taking this apart, to troubleshoot the original issue I had ( being the 4x4 would not engage) I had ZERO problems with it sputtering like it is now at 3/4 throttle. All we did was replace the 4x4 actuator. THEN...when we started having the new problem, we started part by part replacing the things I told you in the first message I sent. Another little note. This machine is sitting off the ground, with wheels off and on jack stands. Would this have anything to do with my issue, since the machine is not tire to floor? I also noticed today, that is does have a rust hole in the muffler. The length of the hole is about 3"but not very big. Also, while we have been troubleshooting this, we have had the belt COVER OFF. Does this make a difference? I read somewhere that you shouldn't start the machine without the belt cover on? ( that it can cause issues? Is this true?). We do not have the new actuator for the 4x4 mounted to the diff yet, we have it set to the side so we can monitor it working when we engage it into***** Would this cause any issues?
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

On:

  • replace the 4x4 actuator - even if just for test purposes, re-install the old actuator;
  • sitting off the ground - should have no effect;
  • hole in the muffler - affect the mix slightly but not likely to cause the sputtering'
  • belt COVER OFF - try removing the Drive Belt Failure Detecting Switch fuse and compare sputtering.
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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Where is the Drive Belt Failyre Detecting Switch?
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

The Drive Belt Failure Detecting Switch fuse would be co-located with the Oil Cooler Fan fuse slightly above the oil cooler.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Thank you. I will check this and get back to you asap
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

Yes please; when able.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Hi Louie! My husband wasn't able to look at the ATV today, however he is tomorrow & I will get back to you ASAP tomorrow night to see if that fixed it and what the outcome was.
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

No prob; tomorrow or when conveniently able.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
What is the process to raise the needle? It looks like its on a plastic float tab. Also...The old actuator is in-op and was definitely in need of replacing, the brushes on the motor were completely missing. I no longer have the old one. I tried running it with the belt cover off and removed the Drive Belt fuse- it ran the exact same way. Im currently looking for a local place that sells a air filter so I can try that also. Ill get back to you in a few. Thank you!
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

Depending on the model/version of the carb, there would be a circlip lock on notches. Lowering the position of this circlip = raising the needle.

In some version, the washer/clip is fixed hence no adjustment notches. The workaround is to inser small flatwashers to raise the needle from its current height.

And yes please. Address the air filter as it is a critical factor in the air mix = lean and/or flat spots/hesitancy.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Just bought a brand new OEM air filter and replaced it. Still runs the same way. Im attaching a video so you can hear the way its ran when it runs.
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
It wont let me attach a video. Is there any other way I can send it?
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

There is a file size limitation on what can be attached.

Try Dropbox and post back the link.

Include pictures of the new air filter.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Here is a link for the video. Please let me know if it works.https://www.dropbox.com/s/tncc969lx4pf71d/IMG_0668%20%281%29.MOV?dl=0
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

Appreciate the pictures and the video.

Let's recap/consider:

  • over voltage/charging - same with regulator disconnected;
  • air issue - new filter;
  • - try stuffing a second layer of foam to further restrict the air intake...or for test purposes, even old sock over the air filter would serve the purpose. It may even need 2-3 layers;
  • rust hole in the muffler - try exhaust tape.
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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ok Im going to try that now. I happen to have some exhaust tape from my ATV so I can try that tonight. I will get right back to you.
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

Yes please and would look forward to an update when able.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ugh! Tried every thing you mentioned. Still no change.
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

There should have been a change somewhere....even with just something like the spark plug burn color to show getting richer.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
There was no change in how it ran, reguardless of the spark burn color. Even if if shows it's getting richer, it's still running the exact same way
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

Let's try a process of elimination; we look into the belt system first. Please click HERE.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
You want me to reset the belt? Ive did this about 10 times so far. I will however, do it again. The idea of the possibility of it being in limp mode though was eliminated with the fact that it WILL go into*****( see original post).
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

Bear with me and yes please (even if just for test purposes / again).

The idea is to work on each of the part that affects/retard the ignition one-at-a-time and try the Prairie.

Next would be to disconnect the Reverse Position Switch; try. Then short this wire to ground (temporarily)...try.

Then the Override/Reverse Power Assist Switch...first disconnect its wires...try.

...then short these wires of the Override/Reverse Power Assist Switch...try.

And finally the green wire to the igniter. First try is to disconnect, try running the Prairie.

...then try shorting this to ground...run the prairie.

Please click HERE. This is the ignition wiring diagram with the parts that has direct effect on the ignition.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ok....
The printout you had sent me in regards ***** ***** a belt reset, didn't do anything. The belt light continues to flash and it never slows down. Its just a continuous flash. Also, we checked the belt switch with a OHM meeter and it is working properly. Do you happen to know what would cause this to NOT want to reset? Also...we replaced the check belt and*****light assembly.
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
The instructions that you sent me on April 7th at 9:51 and I have a question. Its says to " Disconnect the Reverse Position Switch" Im assuming this is the switch that is on the lefthand side of the engine? It also says "Short these wires to ground" So does that mean to ground both wires? Then it says " The override reverse power assist switch," says to "disconnect wires". Then it says " Then short these wires of the Overide/Reverse Power Assist Switch"...SO does that mean all these wires need to go to ground? and then it says."Finally the green wire to the ignighter" what do you want me to do with the green wire to infighter? Ground it out too? And all of these things that we are grounding out, are they suppose to be done all at the same time? Or one procedure at a time? With the key on? Im assuming? Just want to be clear. Thank you
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I will rate your service as soon as I get this figured out . Thank you!
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

Appreciate your kind understanding of automated-systems / machine-generated followups, ads & offers.

Let's re-work on the belt system first as above posted:

  • disconnect connector to drive belt failure detecting switch;
  • test run the Prairie and note if "...sputtering when...rev...";
  • temporarily jump together the blue/white and brown wires of the igniter (CDI) then likewise test run to observe if "...sputtering when...rev...";
  • measure voltage at the igniter's brown wire.
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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Can you also possibly answer my questions?
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

On:

  1. what would cause this to NOT want to reset? - switch(CVT cover), wire, connector, switch position/activation, over voiltage, voltage fluctuation, more than 100 hours of use and others as detailed in the earlier posted procedures;
  2. instructions that you sent me on April 7th at 9:51 - secondary as the belt would have to be addressed first except for the re-work on the belt system first as above posted:
  • disconnect connector to drive belt failure detecting switch;
  • test run the Prairie and note if "...sputtering when...rev...";
  • temporarily jump together the blue/white and brown wires of the igniter (CDI) then likewise test run to observe if "...sputtering when...rev...";
  • measure voltage at the igniter's brown wire.
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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ok, Im checking this all out this morning
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

Yes please and would look forward to an update when able.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Ok here is the update for todays work:1. The Reverse Position switch: Disconnected it, no change. The red/white wire grounded: no change.
2. Override Reverse Power Assist Switch: Disconnected it, no change. Brown wire: 12.3v not running, Brown Wire: 14.0v running, no change. Yellow/White wire: Running and Grounded: No change.
3. Green Wire to ignitor: disconnected, no change. Running and Grounded: no change.
( All during these tests, belt light flashes continuously and runs the same way, rough @ 1/2 throttle and above)4. Disconnected drive belt switch: no change. Sputtering again and wont rev etc. Jumped together the blue/white and brown wire of the ignitor: Same results. Measured voltage at the ignitors, brown wire: 12.3v not running/key on. With machine running: 13.8v.
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

Sorry in/out....field workload.

Please click HERE for the go/no-go belt failure detection tests:

Post back at which point it is still a "No".

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
We went all the way down the list and stopped at "Has the LED indicators the flash and returns?" answer is NO. Also...."is the***** indicator light off?" answer is: YES. The remedy for this is to inspect Belt failure detection switch or LED indicator. We have already replaced the LED indicator so I'm now going to order the belt failure detection switch.
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Also, I can't find the part or the part # to order the Belt Failure Detection switch. Can you help with that too?
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I believe I have to buy the whole belt cover to get the belt failure switch. I don't feel comfortable spending that money, considering I have already tested the Belt Failure Detection switch and it tests fine. What about the ignitor? Would that at all be causing my problems?
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

Unfortunately yes; the switch is an integral part of the cover.

The switch reacts to belt slack/slapping and once activated requires the reset as earlier posted.

And appreciate your kind understanding of the challenges of 'remote diagnosis'

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
We went all the way down the list and stopped at "Has the LED indicators the flash and returns?" answer is NO. Also...."is the***** indicator light off?" answer is: YES. The remedy for this is to inspect Belt failure detection switch or LED indicator. We have already replaced the LED indicator so I'm now going to order the belt failure detection switch.
Motorcycle Mechanic: Louie, Technician replied 1 year ago

I understand.

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Disclaimer: Information in questions, answers, and other posts on this site ("Posts") comes from individual users, not JustAnswer; JustAnswer is not responsible for Posts. Posts are for general information, are not intended to substitute for informed professional advice (medical, legal, veterinary, financial, etc.), or to establish a professional-client relationship. The site and services are provided "as is" with no warranty or representations by JustAnswer regarding the qualifications of Experts. To see what credentials have been verified by a third-party service, please click on the "Verified" symbol in some Experts' profiles. JustAnswer is not intended or designed for EMERGENCY questions which should be directed immediately by telephone or in-person to qualified professionals.

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