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Louie
Louie, Technician
Category: Motorcycle
Satisfied Customers: 12670
Experience:  25+ yrs. experience
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Pearl, I have a Kowasaki 2002 3010 Mule. I runs fine but

Customer Question

Pearl, I have a Kowasaki 2002 3010 Mule. I runs fine but won't stay running. It is definitely a fuel supply problem since if I repeatedly cycle the ignition key to fire the fuel pump diaphragm which refills the line to the carb but only runs until the fuel is depleted from the line. I've replace the pump and fuel cut-off relay to no avail. Suggestions? how can I test the relay? Thx
JA: When did you last fill the tank? And do you smell gasoline around the engine?
Customer: Tank is nearly full. do not smell gas around the engine.
JA: What is the model of your '02 motorcycle?
Customer: I have a Kowasaki 2002 3010 Mule.
JA: Are you hoping to fix this yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: Yes. replaced fuel pump and fuel cut-off relay.
JA: Anything else you think the mechanic should know?
Customer: Nope
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Motorcycle
Expert:  Louie replied 1 year ago.

Hi and welcome to JustAnswer,

Thank you for the question and your patience. Should you still need assistance for information purposes only...

Initially, with new/known to be good fuel pump and its relay, then proposed preliminary electrical checks (if have not been done) using a multi-meter with the engine running:

  • • IGN+12V on the black/white wire from the ignition switch to the fuel pump relay;
  • • pulsating voltage on the blue wire from the igniter to the fuel pump relay;
  • • PUMP+12V on the black/blue wire from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Does the pulsating voltage on the blue wire from the igniter pulse at rpm frequency? If so a multi-meter would read something less than 12vdc, what is the proper operating voltage that is measured on the blue wire when running? Also, I can hear the pump pulse once upon turning the ignition switch on but does not pulse after that, does that point to anything?
Expert:  Louie replied 1 year ago.

Hi again,

On:

  • Does the pulsating voltage on the blue wire from the igniter pulse at rpm frequency? - yes but half of it only;
  • If so a multi-meter would read something less than 12vdc, what is the proper operating voltage that is measured on the blue wire when running? - agree; the proper voltage should actually be pulsating towards 0.0V since the igniter would be switching it 12-0-12-0-12 ideally. And since this is RPM dependent, the pulses would be directly proportionate to the firing of 1 of the ignition coils. An analog (needle type) multi-meter may show a bit more of the flicker although the prescribed measuring instrument is a peak voltage meter;
  • Also, I can hear the pump pulse once upon turning the ignition switch on but does not pulse after that, does that point to anything? - this is to be expected. It would be the 'priming' feature prior to an expected start. Normally, the pump should re-start running once the engine is cranking.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Can you please provide an approach to testing both the relay and the pump so that I can confirm my diagnosis. thanks Louie:)
Expert:  Louie replied 1 year ago.

On test for the fuel pump and its relay - please click HERE.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Great. So to be clear, by definition the pump operates correctly by clicking (diaphragm movement) and will only click each time power is removed and re-applied (at the frequency of 1/2 the motor rpms due to two cylinder engine)... correct? Applying power over and again is necessary to test the pump.... correct?
Additionally... since during the test if when "Closing the outlet hose while operating the fuel pump" is supposed to stop the pump and it DOES, could there be an issue with the carburetor float chamber? Is there a test for the float chamber?
Thanks again Louie:) So far this last attachment is the best information I've come across, did this come from a Service Manual for the Mule?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
another question? what is the purpose of the 3rd hose off the pump (not the inlet from gas tank or outlet to carb) for and if obstructed what is its affect? Thx
Expert:  Louie replied 1 year ago.

To confirm:

  • the pump operates correctly by clicking (diaphragm movement) and will only click each time power is removed and re-applied (at the frequency of 1/2 the motor rpms due to two cylinder engine)... correct? Applying power over and again is necessary to test the pump.... correct? - yes to all;
  • Additionally... since during the test if when "Closing the outlet hose while operating the fuel pump" is supposed to stop the pump and it DOES, could there be an issue with the carburetor float chamber? - again yes;
  • Is there a test for the float chamber? - none but visual inspection please click HERE. The floats are not even adjustable on this model;
  • attachment is the best information I've come across, did this come from a Service Manual for the Mule? - yes from the factory Service Manual;
  • purpose of the 3rd hose off the pump - vent and breather for the internal electronic controller of the fuel pump Closing the outlet hose = stop the pump.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
When you refer to the outlet hose I assume you are referring to the hose from pump to carb.... Correct?
Expert:  Louie replied 1 year ago.

Yes; outlet would refer to the output line of the pump towards the carb.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Thx...... Testing
Expert:  Louie replied 1 year ago.

Good luck and thank you too for the opportunity to be able to share the information.

Glad that the above service information may serve your purpose and would appreciate a Positive Rating and/or an Accept (if haven't done so).

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I'm back. Traveling on business had to put efforts on back burner.
Tested the pump, with continuous 12VDC on it runs, that is, the diaphragm continues to cycle repeatedly and moves test fluid but does not stop if I plug the outlet hose. But nonetheless pumps. So I figured it must be OK. Is that normal or should it outright stop cycling with the outlet plugged and with continuous power applied?
Tested the relay and did not pass the ohm tests per the instructions you sent. Replaced it. The mule ran normal but after running for nearly an hour it started to starve for gas slowly toward dying. While dying it could keep running if I pulled the choke in and out, eventually after pulling the choke in and out to keep it running it died and would not start or run again.
After sitting a day I again checked the relay, does not pass test or show same ohms as when new, however I cycled the key to prime the carb several times (charged the outlet line to the carb), it started up and continued to run for 5 or so min and then did the same thing..... ran and eventually died after continued choking.
That is where I'm at, it seems the relay works since I was able to run it for 5min or so (much longer than it takes to burn the gas in the outlet line between pump and carb, so I know the relay and pump had to work to some degree). Don't know where to go. Would be happy to buy a new pump but want to be sure one device or the other is not taking out either.
Suggestions? thx.Now I don't know what to make of it.Tested the pump per the directions.
Expert:  Louie replied 1 year ago.

Let's try think out of the box (even if just to eliminate these below as potential suspects):

  • check, clean or replaced fuel filter or even bypass for test purposes;
  • cautiously check if it would run more than 5 minutes with the gas tank cap off.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok, but filter is brand new. Will try with cap off/loose. Thx. R u on pacific time, I'm on EST.
Expert:  Louie replied 1 year ago.

Yes please; an update when able.

And neither on those 2 time zones. Am @ GMT +8

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Fuel filter is new. I'm sure there is no gas line obstruction. Here's why. After the entire system cools down, usually overnight, it has been running and will run at idle indefinitely. As soon as I run at 3/4+ throttle it dies after say 5min or less, despite keeping it running just a little longer as it is dying by pulling choke in and out. When dead the fuel filter is full of gas. While running and while dying voltage to pump is consistently at approx. 10 vdc depending on rpm (Fluke multimeter, no scope). If I turn the ignition key on and off 20 or so times to prime the line it will start/fire and run for a very short (5sec) time.
Since I replaced the relay and the voltage appears to be good (assume 10vdc+/- is acceptable, please confirm), and the voltage to the pump is consistent I'm leaning toward the pump and replacing it. this is not cheep... your thoughts? Thx
Expert:  Louie replied 1 year ago.

Hi again and welcome back,

Strongly consider:

  • re-inspect the battery, its ground lines and/or re-check and re-clean the battery cables + terminals, connectors and wiring. More importantly, have the battery externally charged and also LOAD TESTed (even if new/charged and just for the purpose of eliminating it as a suspect);
  • the battery voltage should at least be 12.7V when idling and rise to ~14.5V when revving;
  • measure the output pressure of the fuel pump.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Will do. How do I measure output pressure of fuel pump? BTW, behavior is same with and w/o gas cap on. Thx
Expert:  Louie replied 1 year ago.

There are gauges for measuring output pressure something like the product shown HERE. Ideally 3 ~ 4 psi.

Even gauges intended for cars would serve the purpose hence most auto shops would have it.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Doo you know the OEM part number for this fuel pump for this Mule?
Expert:  Louie replied 1 year ago.

49040, please click HERE.

View HERE.