Motorcycle Questions? Ask a Mechanic.
Hi Mike and welcome to JustAnswer,Thank you for the question and your patience. Should you still need assistance for information purposes only...Initially, proposed preliminary tries (if have not been done and depending on the year/model/version):
Still, let's try/review the basics; re-inspect the battery, its ground lines and/or check/clean the battery cables + terminals, connectors and wiring as a preliminary consideration. Have the battery externally charged and then LOAD TESTed (even if new/charged and just for the purpose of eliminating it as a suspect).
All others would point to a potential issue with the electronic control module.
Hi again Mike,
The fusible link(s) would almost always be grayish and would look just like a short length of wire. It is normally tied to the same big terminal of the starter solenoid as used by the big cable of the battery's + terminal.
Re-confirm the presence of ALWAYS+12V at both ends of the gray fusible link then / connector to the red wire. Trace/test this red wire all the way to where it feeds a connector.
It would be doubtful if the ECU has any issue. A faulty ECU issue would not cause "... no electical power...No lights, gauges..."
Please re-check/confirm the "...two brown wires..." as brown is usually ground wire with Polaris models.
And what are the wire colors of the "...had volt at double wire at the ECM..."
Apologies for the delay Mike; mobile with sluggish Internet connection if at all.
Very significant that upon "... Replace the double wire eye...", the electrical worked but stopped, then the fusible link itself would be highly suspect.
For test purposes and to confirm, remove/disconnect/bypass the fusible link and wire directly the "...double red wire..." to the + terminal of the starter solenoid or preferably to the battery's.
However, if not corrective, then these would be indicative of a failing / intermittent electronic control module. The ECM also acts as an electronic fuse/relay to provide the harness with the other +12V supply.
It would be to your advantage to go directly to a dealer for parts replacement.
The above description would more be for a circuit breaker.
Still, consider bypassing these and directly wiring the 2 red wires. For simplicity, alligator clips with wires may be used similar to the product shown HERE.
This would then serve both as a test by process of elimination and as a temporary fix.
As a test, the culprit would be identified; bypass works, then the fusible link/circuit breaker would be faulty.
If not, then the ECM would need looking into if not a replacement.
Glad that the above information may serve your purpose and would appreciate a Positive Rating and/or an Accept (if haven't done so).
Good luck and thank you for the opportunity to be able to share the information.
With or without the fusible links, if the two (2) red wires are now directly powered but still no power to anything/everything else, then yes; the ECM would now be most likely fault.
I realize that the above information may perhaps be not what was expected. Unfortunately, there is no quick-n-easy fix and neither is there a workaround; sorry for having to be the bearer of bad news.
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Thanks; and these appear to be the junction boxes where the wires of the same color are coupled together.
The fusible link or circuit breaker may well be inside the "... hard black jacket..."
Though and since bypassed would not be a suspect.
That there is voltage on the 2 red wires to the electronic control module BUT none going out / provided to the ignition switch, then yes; replacing the electronic control module would be the next logical step.
It is of course possible. However, this has been taken into account hence the slight slack in harness and the snapping together of the connector.
It is also possible for the connector pins to be needing cleaning. Consider using compressed air or better yet, plastic safe / non-staining CRC 2-26, DeoxIT DN5 or LPS 03116 Contact Cleaner or equivalent to clean the insides of the harness' connector and that of the ECM's.
Another possibility is internal to the ECM; intermittent and/or cold solder.
Shop/dealer practice is to "borrow" from a friendly donor/source a known to be good ECM.