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I have a 2009 CBO fatbob with the 110cc six speed. I was…

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I have a 2009 CBO...
I have a 2009 CBO fatbob with the 110cc six speed. I was getting on it a little when I got up to 75 something started knocking sounds like something hung. No gauges come on. It only has 4700 miles
Submitted: 2 years ago.Category: Motorcycle
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
I meant cvo
Answered in 8 hours by:
2/21/2016
Motorcycle Mechanic: Steve, Motorcycle Mechanic replied 2 years ago
Steve
Steve, Motorcycle Mechanic
Category: Motorcycle
Satisfied Customers: 7,176
Experience: 30+ yrs. experience, MMI, HD technician, HD early, engine rebuild/performance, bike builder, kit bike program manager, CCI 2001-2004
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is it still doing it?

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Motorcycle Mechanic: Steve, Motorcycle Mechanic replied 2 years ago

check for diagnostic codes.

Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.

3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer

6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

7 - Record the codes.

8 - If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.

9 – Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10 – Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.

"No Rsp" will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.

let me know what you find.

Steve

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
K thanks
Motorcycle Mechanic: Steve, Motorcycle Mechanic replied 2 years ago

let me know what you find.

Steve

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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
i started the bike the next day and the noise was gone. I stopped and started it afew times and let it run and never heard anything. Do you think the oil just needs changed from setting this winter? Its been driven some but not a lot.
Motorcycle Mechanic: Steve, Motorcycle Mechanic replied 2 years ago

I think you should check for diagnostic codes, as described above, to be safe.

then....it depends on the "knocking noise".

- if it ceases the instant you turn off the ignition, it's a rod knock.

- if you still hear a tap, tap, tap after cutting the ignition, while the flywheels are winding down, it's a valve train noise.

a valve train noise could easily be caused by a lack of oil, loss of oil pump suction, or water in the oil. water in the oi is a common winter problem. people start and run their engines without riding he bike and allowing the oil to get over 200 degrees.....or they go for short rides, not allowing the oil to get over 200 degrees. the result is, condensation collects in the oil. if your oil is a tan color....that's water and you should change the oil before ridding the bike again. if it's due, you should change the oil. if you are guilty of any of the bad winter behaviors, change the oil.

I prefer Royal Purple, Max Cycle 20w-50 synthetic oil. it's very expensive and worth every cent. it is the only oil I use in my bikes. you can order it from Amazon.

let me know if you need more help.

if not, please leave a POSITIVE RATING.

thank you,

Steve

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Motorcycle Mechanic: Steve, Motorcycle Mechanic replied 2 years ago

let me know if you need more help.

if not, please leave a POSITIVE RATING.

thank you,

Steve

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Experience: 30+ yrs. experience, MMI, HD technician, HD early, engine rebuild/performance, bike builder, kit bike program manager, CCI 2001-2004

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