How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask RSRBOB Your Own Question
RSRBOB, Technician
Category: Motorcycle
Satisfied Customers: 1078
Experience:  Former Factory Service Rep, Dlr Line Tech, Service Manager, General Manager, Store Owner
Type Your Motorcycle Question Here...
RSRBOB is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

It ran great 2 years and now this started where I

Customer Question

It ran great for about 2 years and now this started where I have to have the chock on just to get moving When its in gear! It sounds fine when there is no load on the engine. No stock air box on it. It has After Market filters. They are the chrome wire type.
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Motorcycle
Expert:  RSRBOB replied 2 years ago.
If it has had the aftermarket air filters on it for 2 years and ran fine then we can rule that out as a probable cause.
The next thought that comes to mind is a mechanical issue. More specifically loss of compression. This could be something like a tight valve(s) needing to be adjusted to worn out piston, rings and cylinder.
The logic behind this would be at idle the engine creates the lowest amount of vacuum, which draws the fuel into the engine. If there is a mechanical problem that affects the engine's ability to create that low pressure, it could create symptoms such as you described.
Unfortunately, your first post did not come through so I will ask if you have replaced the spark plugs after the problem showed up. If not, I strongly urge you to do that.
Do you happen to know what year the engine/carb combination is or what year bike they came off of? Suzuki changed styles of carbs and incorporated a slide lift assist system on later carbs.
There is also a chance that a vacuum line has come off creating an air leak. An easy test for that would be to spray contact cleaner or starter fluid around the carbs and manifolds (NOT into the air filters, or even close to them) and see if that affects the engine's idle. If it changes it at all, whether it revs up or tries to stall, you have a vacuum leak and need to pin point it and repair it. If spraying contact cleaner around the carbs and intake manifolds has no effect on engine RPM, I would revert back to a mechanical issue and do the compression test.
If you have more questions, feel free to ask.