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My 62 iron head sportster clutch.. ive done everything..disengage…

i have a problem with...
i have a problem with my 62 iron head sportster clutch.. ive done everything and still wont disengage.. will someone please help me
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Answered in 3 minutes by:
6/29/2010
Steve
Steve, Motorcycle Mechanic
Category: Motorcycle
Satisfied Customers: 7,278
Experience: 30+ yrs. experience, MMI, HD technician, HD early, engine rebuild/performance, bike builder, kit bike program manager, CCI 2001-2004
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Welcome to Just Answer.

tell me how you are adjusting the cable.

Steve

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
well me and a pro harley mechanic adjusted the way the book told us too... what seems to be happening is the clutch ramp isnt pushing the clutch rods enough and also it seems like the cable is too long.. he says its the shittiest clutch setup harley came up with.. if only i had a 1/8 extra inch of push

I understand........

now, if you could just please tell me what....exactly....you did to adjust the clutch, I may be able to help you. step by step please.

Steve

 

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
ok we took the nut off and tightened the screw until it was tight on the bottom side... then it says too tighten the handle side until the clutch ramp is barely touching the stopper.... then we tightened the nut on the bottom side... then we tightened the free play on the handle until 1/8 inch of play....

I think I understand your problem.

that procedure is incorrect.

this procedure is from the HD factory service manual:

- loosen clutch release rod adjusting screw lock nut and back off the adjusting screw.

- clutch release worm (inside transmission side cover) should seat against it's stop when the clutch hand lever is in it's fully extended position. if the worm and lever do not fully seat, check for cable binding in the side cover.

- adjust the cable length by turning the clutch cable adjusting sleeve (hand lever end of cable housing) so that the clutch release worm does not quite return against it's stop. (this will hold the clutch hand lever in it's fully extended position at all times)

- turn the clutch release rod adjusting screw in until the clutch hand lever has 1/8 of it's of it's full movement free before clutch starts to release.(this can be checked by a slight increase in tension in the hand lever as it is being moved to the release position)

- tighten clutch release rod adjusting screw lock nut without disturbing the adjusting screw setting.

let me know if you need more help.

Steve

Steve
Steve, Motorcycle Mechanic
Category: Motorcycle
Satisfied Customers: 7,278
Experience: 30+ yrs. experience, MMI, HD technician, HD early, engine rebuild/performance, bike builder, kit bike program manager, CCI 2001-2004
Verified
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago

im sorry but the book said that exact stuff... im just not experienced like the other guy... he says he never had this problem.... we have alot of pull and see the clutch ramp moving and we also looked at the clutch backing plate and it was moving a signigicant amount... what we dont get was that the mainshaft was making the sprocket move so we put a different thrust washer on so we have a end play of .004 to .009 have you ever heard about the cable pulling apart the clutch ramp and coming right out?

the procedure you cited is for XL clutch adjustment 1971 to around 1983 (I'd have to look up the exact ending years before they started using the evo clutch) which has an adjuster screw on the left side cover.

the procedure I gave you is for the earlier clutch with the adjuster in the right side transmission sprocket cover.

perform the adjustment....as stated above....and let me know if you need more help.

Steve

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
hey steve i did step by step until the part where the clutch ramp needs to be off of the stopper. is the stopper supposed to be crooked??? anyways when i adjust the handle the sleeve, so that the ramp needs to be slightly off of the stopper its all the way tight and i can see that the clutch cable seems to not be tight.... can we put a longer sleeve in where it goes into the case?
Customer reply replied 8 years ago
hey steve i did step by step until the part where the clutch ramp needs to be off of the stopper. is the stopper supposed to be crooked??? anyways when i adjust the handle the sleeve, so that the ramp needs to be slightly off of the stopper its all the way adjusted so there isnt any more threads and i can see that the clutch cable seems to not be tight..the clutch ramp still remains on the stopper... can we put a longer sleeve in where it goes into the case so that i can get more push on the rods?

the stop for the worm is not bent.

you will have to replace it.

it also sounds like you have the wrong clutch cable.

some aftermarket cables will cause problems for you.

try Barnett.

Steve

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
what do i have to replace??? what clutch cable do you recommend?? should i not put the sleeve in cuz it looks like it puts more tension on the cable... the cable seems too long.

if the worm stop is bent, you will have to replace it.

if the clutch cable is too long, you will have to replace it. it shouldn't have any extra parts. I am not sure what you are talking about with the "sleeve". if you are asking me if you should add extra parts to the cable to make it work, I would say no. if you left a part off that needs to be included, you should include it.

if you have to replace the cable, use Barnett.

Steve

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
nevermind the stop goes at a angle, right?? its a barnett cable im dealing with.. I took all the slack off of the cable by adjust the cable length by turning the clutch cable adjusting sleeve (hand lever end of cable housing) so that the clutch release worm does not quite return against it's stop. (this will hold the clutch hand lever in it's fully extended position at all times) The ramp wont do this

the worm stop is not suppose to be at an angle.

you need to repair your bent worm stop.

if you are using a BArnett cable and you cannot accomplish the adjustment procedure, you have a mechanical problem that requires attention.

fix the worm stop and try again.

 

in the mean time.....have you performed any recent repairs or maintenance to any clutch components?

Steve

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
new clutch ramp, rods, cable, plates, backing plate, and thrust washer on main shaft because the rods were pushing the mainshaft with them....
Customer reply replied 8 years ago
new clutch ramp, rods, cable, plates, backing plate, and thrust washer on main shaft because the rods were pushing the mainshaft with them.... i swear the cable is too long...

did the clutch work before your repair?

Steve

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago

no... it was a rolling chassis when i got it. never came with a clutch cable. the harley mech said that this was the worse clutch config that harley ever came up with... not enough adjustment

Customer reply replied 8 years ago
new clutch ramp, rods, cable, plates, backing plate, and thrust washer on main shaft because the rods were pushing the mainshaft with them.... i swear the cable is too long... i only drove it once and the cable pulled right out

that clutch system is not the best Harley ever used, but it worked for everyone else for over 20 years.

replace the worm stop and try again.

let me know what you find.

Steve

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
cool...

let me know what you find.

Steve

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
we did the steps one by one and still didnt have enough adjustment so we shortened up the cable by putting a sleeve in where the cable goes into the case housing.. now the clutch seems to be working great... gonna take it for a ride and see ifit works.

if you have to modify the clutch cable to get it to work, it is not the correct cable for your bike.(as I stated above)

Steve

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