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michael, Motorcycle Mechanic
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Experience:  mmi,22 years riding ,
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I have a 95 kawasaki ninja zx9rb that has no spark?

Resolved Question:

I have a 95 kawasaki ninja zx9rb that has no spark?
Submitted: 8 years ago.
Category: Motorcycle
Expert:  michael replied 8 years ago.


questions i have for you that will help us determine the failure.

1. last service was done when?

2. how many miles does bike have on it?

3. when did you notice the problem?

4. any changes done to the bike recently?

5. what the condition of the bat.?

6 has the bike fell over recently?

7.any changes done to the controls(handgrips)

8. has bike been stored for any amount of time?

Customer: replied 8 years ago.
answers -

1 - its not my bike, I have no idea.
2 - 25,000 ???
3 - its not mine, it came to me this way
4 - not to my knowledge, it all appears stock
5 - battery is okay, I have it on a charger too
6 - Dont know
7 - not that I can see
8 - It has been parked in my garage for 8-10 weeks now, it may have been parked for a brief period before that.

The owner just told me tonight that it started exhibiting problems when he was riding it, and it took about 2 weeks for it to get to this condition. I have never heard it run.

I have checked fuses, all good, I have checked the majority of the wiring, and it appears good, I have checked and tested the other ignition components (pick-up coil, ignition switch, plugs, ign coils, neutral switch, side stand switch, starter lockout switch, etc.), and all tested good according to haynes manual specs.

The only thing I haven't checked is the igniter unit because it is solid state, but I had the owner get a used one from a dealership that came off a running bike.

I am not getting spark at any plug, and obviously the engine cranks.

I just downloaded the original Kawasaki service manual last night and will go through and recheck everything.

Also - it did have a meltdown at some point. The pigtail to the ignition switch has a melted spot in it where the large brown (I believe power supply wire) plugs in. Whoever had it before, bypassed the pigtail and soldered in another wire. It appears to be functional.

Expert:  michael replied 8 years ago.

things i want you to check.(by the way your doing a good job on the bike)

sounds like you have a multimeter i would like you to check the run stop switch.

and also try the igniter . you can check for signal coming out of the ignition module with your meter as well. should have near bat voltage going to the coil and your signal wire from the ignition module test it as well on ohms rotate engine till it comes to firing mark and check it again. this will let you know if you have a good signal to the coils . sounds like the bike degraded over time . there are many checks to do on the coil pack . also the check the bank angle sensors or anti tip should read on ohms ofl as when it gets tipped it makes contaact completing a circuit causing the ignition system to shut down .


Customer: replied 8 years ago.
you wrote:
also the check the bank angle sensors or anti tip should read on ohms ofl as when it gets tipped it makes contaact completing a circuit causing the ignition system to shut down .


I dont understand this.

Not sure of bank angle sensor, if it has them. I dont see them anywhere in the wiring diagram.

and 'anti tip'?? What is this?

and ohms 'ofl" when it gets tipped? what is 'ofl'?


Thanks for the compliment. Ive been a mechanic for 20+ years, but this is my first bike repair.

Customer: replied 8 years ago.
I have 12.84 volts at battery. Traced white (from batt pos) wire into key switch. When switched to on, this powers the brown wire, which then goes back to the fuse box.

So I checked voltage at key switch pigtail, 12.84v, then switched to on, and checked brown wire. It has 10.24 volts. then checked brown wire where it taps into fuse panel, 9.9 volts.

Also there is a grey wire that I believe is supposed to get power from the switch as well, and it goes into the igniter. When key is on, it has 0 volts.

This here should be a link to a download of the service manual. I have a copy of it here on my pc but cannot find a way to show you just one page of it.

Expert:  michael replied 8 years ago.
if the ignition wires were shorted at the key switch & melted chances are the ground in the igniter has been burnt up(that definitely happened) & the cdi is toast.
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
did you get a chance to look at the service manual/wiring diagram?
I have two cdi's both of which I believe are good.
What do you think of my last post, with the voltages?
Expert:  michael replied 8 years ago.
since the ground has been burn up it will read nothing if you put it on ohms and you get ofl the ground is shot . it should be close to bat voltage and untill it has a ground source it will read 0. due to the circut is incomplete
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
yeah you lost me.
What will read nothing? What exactly are you speaking of? What should be close to battery voltage?
Help me out here Mike.
Expert:  michael replied 8 years ago.

ok simply the situation of the wires being melted and spliced . the ignitor was affected by the melting of the wires degraded over time and has failed. my scematic shows grey wire being for the right turn signal probly why no voltage . sorry for the confusion. replace your cdi ignitor and you should be in buisness

Customer: replied 8 years ago.
I already did that. It was the first thing I tried, hoping for the easy fix. It didnt change anything.
Im on igniter #2 right now.
And i think you are looking at the wrong diagram.
The igniter has two pigtails. One with 3 wires, the other with 7.
The grey wire coming from the ignition switch goes into the igniter. I just went out and checked continuity, and it is the same wire.
The page I have from the service manual is 15-24, ignition system circuit.
I read some where (dont know if its true or not) that the grey wiresgoing to the igniter should be below 12 volts. Around 5 to 7 or so.
Expert:  michael replied 8 years ago.
it apears that my info is dated . just to be fair to you and hope ur problem is fixed im going to open this to other experts that are far more versed in the imports electricly. i will continue to work on your issue . im going to open this tho to other ecxperts as i want you to get the problem solved as fast as possible .
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Thanks Mike.
Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
Hey man,

I have been keeping an eye on this tried to get Mike to post this. Essentially what happens with a Kawasaki igniter, when you have an ignition short, is that the igniter ground(inside) burns up taking that out & that usually ends up eating your cdi box too. For this reason you can not hot wire a Kawasaki & regardless of how the ignition switch shorted the fact that it did was an unintentional hot wire & both the igniter & cdi are toast. Sorry about the news.
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
First off, let me say that I appreceiate your help Mike & Brian. But I am a bit confused here.
There at one time was a short at the ignition switch pigtail, as evidenced by the melted plastic and the soldered in repair, and I was initially highly suspect of that.
But - The repair seems to be functional, although not the prettiest I have seen.
So I have a few questions:
1 - My schematic shows 3 wires into the switch that run the ignition system. A large white wire which is battery positve (protected by a 30a fuse). Then there is a large brown wire (the one that shorted and has been soldered) that runs back to the junction box, and a grey wire that goes directly to the igniter. Should all of these wires have battery voltage when switched to 'On'?
2 - I maybe confusing the terminolgy here. are the CDI and igniter two seperate things. I was under the impression that they were the same thing. I do not see two seperate items on the component locater page in the service manual. Are you possibly referring to the ignition coils themselves?
3 - when I first got the bike, I checked all of the components that I could. I was not able to test the igniter as it is solid state. So, as you suggested, I had gotten another igniter and installed it, hoping (and assuming) that this would solve the problem. Keep in mind that the soldered repair at the large brown wire had already been done. So I basically did what Mike had recommended I do yesterday in his answer posted yesterday at 2:10 am, and it did not solve the problem.
I now have ANOTHER igniter box, and am back at square one again.
Please let me know what you think.
And I will not be leaving negative feedback, I think you guys are great. Sorry to be a pain in the rear end.
If you need to ask me for some specific voltages at specific locations or whatever, I will be happy to get you whatever info you need.
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
I just spoke with the owner of the bike. he stated that when the problem started happening, it was only a starting problem. He said that it would take longer and longer to start, until one day it just wouldnt. But he said that once it started, it ran just fine. He said there were never any issues with the way it ran, just starting.

And, I am looking through the service manual, and am not finding anything that even mentions a 'CDI' part.

Just to make sure we are both talking about the same bike, this is a 1995 Kawasaki Ninja ZX9R-B.

Thanks again.
Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
The cdi & igniter are in the same unit, but they are separate components.

Now I'm not sure exactly what you have happening here.

Was the manual you downloaded a .pdf file, I do not have one to reference here.
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
It is a .pdf file I downloaded from the internet somewhere. I got it from a Kawasaki forum that I recently registered at to try and help with this problem, but I dont remember where the site is.
I am trying to find it now so I can send you a link.
If I knew how to just take a page out of the pdf and insert it here I would but.....

I will try to find you what I am looking at. I think that would be most beneficial.
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Okay I found it!

almost to the bottom you will see the zx9rb (b1-b4 1994-1997) service manual.pdf.

The page I am looking at is section 15-24, ignition system.

this here my also bring you right to it.

Check it out and get back to me.


Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
Does that have the original key switch or a Kaw key switch on it?
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
As far as I know it is the original keyswitch that came with the bike.

I would have taken it off by now and checked its internals but it has some goofy reverse looking rivet things that hold it in place. They need to be drilled out in order to remove them, so I havent done that yet.
Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
Sorry man I've just been slammed, hopefully I can get into that dl tomight.
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

No worries dude,

The bike has been in my garage for almost 3 months now. It can wait a little longer.

Im assuming you have the same schematic I do now..

The voltage from the grey wire coming out of the ignition switch and going to the igniter should be what???

12 volts???

and also, I checked voltage to the coils the other night. I have 12 volts at each terminal, of each coil.

Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
Without looking at that, if you have 12vdc at the coils, I would check the secondary resistance of each & trim back each wire about a 1/2" in the plug boot to get some fresh wire in the end. With 12 at the coils there should be spark.
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
If the igniter provides the ground for the coils, which breaks the field to produce a spark, and the igniter isnt getting power from the grey wire from the switch, it would be safe to assume that if the coils had 12 volts power that without a ground they arent going to spark if the igniter isnt functioning due to lack of power, yes???
Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
Yes, & good thinking it through, but I do not think that you would see 12 at the coils with out an igniter ground. If you do and the ground is not there than I think you are getting a battery voltage reading....
Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
Dude sorry this took so long,

Gy wire from ignition is power to pick up coils, it needs 12 volts key on, otherwise your pick up coil gets no juice, sending nothing back to the igniter.

Have you looked at the lock out switch too?
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
The lockout switch is the keyswitch right? If so, this is what I have been questioning.

If I have 12v at the white wire into the key switch, and the key is in the on position, and I DO NOT have 12 volts at the grey wire coming out of the switch,

The key switch is bad right?
Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
The lock out switch is separate. #10 on the schematic, issues with that will effect the igniter.

If the Gy does not have 12 key on than yes it appears as a bad switch or wiring, but that is easy enough to check with a continuity test for the switch.
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Brian, help with the lockout switch.

What does it do? Lock the steering wheel?
I do not see it anywhere on the bike. I have the guages all taken off and for the most part disassembled, and I dont see another switch.
And the parts location in the manual isnt very decsriptive, just points to the front of the handlebars.
What does it look like?

And, I checked continuity at the pigtail to the key switch, white wire to grey wire, no continuity either key off or key on.
Ive been suspect of the switch since day one, and keep in mind this is where the meltdown/short happened at one time, in the pigtail connector.
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Okay, the starter lock out switch I found in the left handle bar grip. I disconnected the pigtail, and did a continuity test of two of the terminasl in the switch end of the pigtail. (the two outer terminals, one black/yellow and the other one I think just black???)
It has continuity and disconnection when using the clutch lever.

So I assume it is good, plus
The engine does crank over, always has.

So what do you think, order an ignition switch?
And just to verify ignition switch, can I jump 12 volts to the grey wire going into the IC ignitor to check for spark.

I think I tried this once with no success.
Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
Key off that is good.

The starter lockout is just that, a starter disable. It's in the left switch housing, a clutch switch.

I've never had an issue with one, it is tied into the igniter via the Bk/Y wire.... battery/igniter ground.

The starter turns so, it may be nothing... check for continuity.

I think you found your problem with the key switch. Get a Kawasaki switch.

No do not put a jumper in, that is shorting the ignition, you need the switch, a Kaw ZX9 switch.

Thanks for the link.

Customer: replied 8 years ago.

Okay, check this out.

I have a brand new Kawasaki switch. I started checking continuity on it. It does the same exact thing as the switch that is in the bike.

Same values, same locations.

And when I check for continuity from the white wire to the grey wire when the key is in the ON position, there is none. Same as the switch in the bike.

So needless to say I am NOT going to install it.

Now I am wondering about the junction box. And also questioning the alternator???

Basically I am left scratching my head, with another $100.00 dollars spent and no spark.

I found in a haynes(?) manual last night how to test the junction box and started probing wires. The was continuity where it says there shouldnt be in a couple of places.

Dont know if I should trust the Haynes manual, but it does leave me with questions and getting very frustrated.



Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
no doubt. I'll have to wait until I get home to look through the manual. The only thing I trust Haynes books for is starting fires.

Are you referring to fuse box/block as the junction?
Where were you getting continuity where you should not be?
& are you referring to power or just a good, non-shorted wire/circuit when you say continuity?
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

Yes fuse block.

In the Haynes manual it gives pin locations to check for continuity or infinity.


Not sure which ones it was, it was late and I was tired.

I will try to pinpoint it this weekend, and write down the locations.



Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
I think that might confuse things a bit, but you will need to be the judge as you have the bike in front of you. Let me know when you can, I will not be home for hours yet.
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
okay, here are the 'Haynes' manual resistance results for the junction block,from the book.
terminal #'s

1 - 1a 0 ohms
1 - 2 0 ohms
3a - 4 0 ohms
6 - 5 0 ohms
6 - 10 0 ohms
6 - 7 0 ohms
6 - 17 0 ohms
1a - 8 O.L
2 - 8 O.L
3a - 8 O.L
6 - 2 O.L
6 - 3a O.L
17 - 3a O.L

all of these are in spec according to Haynes.
Next I did the diode circuit inspection. Here It says "A low reading should be obtained in one direction, and a reading at least ten times higher in the opposite direction when the leads are swapped."
Okay - So my next question. My craftsman DVOM only reads down to .001 ohm. When I probed all of the terminals it says to probe, I got a reading of "0" in one direction, and right around 1.8 ohms in the opposite direction.
Unless the value are in the ten-thousandths range, all of the readings I took were in range, according to the Haynes manual.

Could the resistance values of the diodes be in the ten-thousandths range????

If not, I am going to say that the junction block is good. I did not however do the starter circuit relat test it mentions. I didnt figure I had too because it cranks. It also gives a headlight relay circuit inspection.

And just so you know, the headlight is out of it.
Dont tell me it won run without a headlight.

I am way lost here.
Maybe we should start over.
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Okay, check this. I started over, this time using the Kawy service manual.

I checked the Ignition switch incoming voltage 12.56 volts. Switched to on, 10.72 volts at brown wire.
I checked the pick-up coil resistance. it is 462 ohms, within spec
I checked the left side Ign. coil primary - 2.9 to 3.0 ohms, within spec
I checked the right side Ign. coil primary, 3.0 to 3.1 ohms, within spec.
I went to check left side Ign coil secondary, nothing. (this is with the wires removed)
I plugged the wires back in, and rechecked at the spark plug ends, nothing.
I went to the right side, and checked at the spark plug end, nothing.
Then I took out the #4 plug wires and checked for continuity, nothing.
Then I put my meter on the audible beep setting, nothing.

I also checked for continuity on the BRAND NEW KAWASAKI switch I have. There is ZERO continuity at the grey wire from either the white or brown wire, when in the "ON" position. It says there should be continuity at all three.

Since I have an alternate (used) IC ignitor, I started probing it as well. It says in the service manual that if a meter with a large capacity battery is used, it WILL damage the IC ignitor. I dont know if my craftsman DVOM fits that description or not, but the readings were way off on this ignitor (not the one currently installed in the bike), and I have deemed it bad. I did not test the one currently in the bike.

So, to recap:
Im losing 2 volts at the brown wire in the switch, (Remember the melted pigtail and the soldered in wire I mentioned??????) which is the wire that powers up the junction block. So it is 2 volts less than it should be as well.

And still no continuity at the grey wire in either ignition switch (stock one or the new one).

Open loop at both ignition coils secondaries, and at least one plug wire with Open loop.

And one IC ignitor sitting on my toolbox that I believe is very likely junk.

Im dying to hear your thoughts on this.

Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Anybody here???
Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
Sorry man, yeah.. I'm in the process of moving across the country, just had limited time.

The voltage drop is a concern.

And even more of a concern is several issues happening at the same time. Like, the voltage drop at the fuse block or switch & secondary coil tests are not related. And I may not be clear, but you said that you had no continuity with the new switch, but yet had lost 2 volts at the brown wire.... did I miss something?

I won't be able to spend sufficient time tracing power flow until tonight, I'll be back then, cool?
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

no you didnt miss anything. I havent installed the new switch. But I do have the 2 volt drop on the old switch (the one still in the bike).


No worries about the time. I would rather not spend 700.00 of my friends money, and get this right the first time.

Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
When checking continuity are you using the ohms setting or the diode check setting?

When you got no secondary resistance was the meter set for K-ohms?
Customer: replied 8 years ago.


I use the automatic setting on my craftsman meter.

When the range is supposed to be in the thousands I might set it to K ohms, but generally use the automatic.


Not sure about diode settings. But when I did the diode tests on the fuse block, I reversed the meter leads to get the readings.


And on the new switch, I also used the beep setting for continuity. I did this test on the bench. As far as can tell, the switch doesnt have a ground, or use the frame or mounting bolts as ground.


I know that I have seen new electrical parts be bad before, but In my 20 years auto experience I find that it is rare.


What are the chances the switch is bad???


It doesnt make sense to me. There should be continuity to the grey wire when switched to the ON position. There isnt, and Ive checked it 10 times.


Is it possible Im not checking it correctly???


I dont know, Im lost in this at the moment.

Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
That is part of the debate that is happening and why I questioned the meter setting for continuity. At some point in the mid 90's Kawasaki put into use an ignition switch that acted as a security featured & why I was so adamant about having a factory switch, as I mentioned earlier, on bikes with those switches, if it is shorted/hot wired/spiked in anyway you loose it & generally the igniter, they stopped that at some point but none of us have been able to pin point the exact dates & models that fit into that. It was done line wide for street bikes & then disappeared. I am not a dealer tech & miss out on the TSB's & warranty/tech memos so I just do not have that kind of info until I see it on the street. In all of my Kaw training in the late 90's we were plainly told to use only OEM components to repair key switch issues because of that.

yes it could be bad, but as you stated that is rare. Just for giggles I'd switch the lead polarity & check it(I'm sure you have though).

The auto setting should have you covered, but we are running out of things to run down, so please bare with me as I think out loud, & ask potentially redundant or seemingly innocuous questions. I really appreciate your patience & I too want it fixed right 1 time.
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

Well i didnt specifically switch the lead polarity and check it, but I have checked it so many times that I would guess that I inadvertantly crossed the leads at some point.


Is there any reason at all that continuity should not go from the white wire in OFF position to the grey wire in the ON position???


If you say Kawasaki made some bad switches, then I may have my customer return the switch for a different new one.

Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
I know of no bad switches, it was a bad design idea, like a "well, it worked on paper" kind of thing. What the deal was is guys were losing keys & hot wiring their bikes,(because you could hot wire a KZ, or GPZ), but with that, boom your igniter was fried, a bunch of owner's po'd with no keys & a fried igniter, (about $300, at the time).... so, different switches were used.

It was good for owners too though as that stopped bikes thieves cold on Kawasakis for a long time & they still go for the Honda's & Suzy's 1st...

.... I'll get at that power flow later this evening.
Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
Arrrggg, thunder storms last night, turned my mac off. Sorry.
Customer: replied 8 years ago.


No worries. The thing has been in my garage for 3 months now.

Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
Have you opened the right bar switch housing & took a peek in there? I think you might find a short or corrosion there creating the meltdown & the voltage drop. Why not take out the fuse first though.... hmmmm.... now I'm scratching my melon.....

Are you getting good w wire continuity from the battery through the fuse to the switch?

I'm pretty sure that your meter is a low capacity(9vdc) battery.

Diodes, junction block, neutral & starter lock out are good.

I'm going to have say the new switch is bad, that is f'ed. Not unheard of but rare. It grounds through the igniter, the br wire or br/w out into the igniter, bk/y coming out, gy is power to the pick up coil. If that helps on the bench.

But I don't get that 2 switches are not continuous.

I'm going to have to think through this a minute.

Customer: replied 8 years ago.
okay check this out-
I pulled apart the right handlebar switch, and it looks good.
And, I yanked the number three plug wire and boot off and checked for continuity.
Then I yanked just the wire out, and it has continuity.
That left me with the boot.
So I re-checked continuity to the piece inside the boot.
So, not knowing what was in there, and not being able to see it, I cut the boot apart and removed the hard plastic piece inside.
On one end of it was the piece that locks onto the spark plug, and on the other end was a small screw.
So I checked continuity to both ends - and guess what ??


what do you make of this???
Expert:  michael replied 8 years ago.
ok i have researched this and learned something new . the side stand switch is part of the ignition system. simply check the side stand switch with ohms side stand down you should have ofl and with it up you should have o resitance
Expert:  .... replied 8 years ago.
Instead of a continuity test there, see what you get for resistance reading, plugs caps have a very high resistance, that is why secondary coil tests are in the K ohm scale. If it is open line, or no reading, I'm thinking you've nailed it, but on all 4?????????
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
I have already checked the sidestand switch. It tested good, but I took it out of the equation by connecting the two leads together and bypassing it.
Expert:  michael replied 8 years ago.
yep took me a while to read all that wqas done so if i am just repaeting something that has been done already i apoligise... you said you had cont. on the grey wire corect with key on what was the vdc should be around 9 with it plugged in and bat voltage unplugged . i will get back to you. any other oddities turn signals work horn brk light headlight . when u crank the engine the headlight is off corect then comes on after the initial attempt to start?
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Customer: replied 8 years ago.
No continuity at grey wire going to ignitor. I have a brand new switch too (not installed), and it tests the same on the bench. No continuity to grey wire when swithced in on position.

Expert:  michael replied 8 years ago.

this bike will not fire without poer to the grey wire you have replaced the switch ect. or at least have it on hand the bike getting harder and harder to start till it will not tells me there is a open started ok at the ecu there is no power to grey we need to back up to the place the grey came from im going to look at my scematic i believe it goes back to the key switch . it does . need to check for power at the grey wire at the key switch coming out with key switch on

Customer: replied 8 years ago.


That was the info I gave you, sorry I didnt specify.


No power or continuity at grey wire coming from the keyswitch, in the ON position.


AND - no continuity at the grey wire on the BRAND NEW SWITCH, tested on bench, in the ON position.


I am reluctant to say that the new switch is bad, and I dont want to install it for fear of not being able to return it.


But I have even tried jumping 12 volts to the grey wire AT the ignitor, and still had no luck.

Expert:  michael replied 8 years ago.
grey solid wire corect no extra tracers ect. the main purpuse for this wire is anti-theft its basic purpuse is to allow the bike to run. there needs to be batt. voltage going to the brain the ecu from this wire for it to say hey its ok im not being stolen . basicaly its a security issue more than an ignition issue . im going to try to similate the problem tomarow on a shop bike .... i think i have a fix but i want to be sure what im thinking will work .
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Its a solid grey wire.
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Hey you guys, I just thought I would let you know that I figured it out.
I found the problem a couple weeks ago actually, and was going to let you know but spaced it.
The problem was in the shorted melted ignition switch pigtail, on the female (bike) side of it.
You couldnt tell by looking at it, but what had happened was when it got hot and melted the outer casing, it allowed on of the female spade connectors to slide into another connector and short.
I had the owner over and we were going through everything again, and I said "do you want to install the new ignition switch?"
He agreed.
So I started breaking the original bike side (the melted one) female connector apart cuz we were going to just going to start by trying to get the spade connectors out of the pigtail and recrimp on newer ones them cuz they were shitty looking.
It was then that I noticed it.
The one thing I never thought to do was a continuity check from one female spade connector to the next, inside the pigtail.
Note to self...
Anyway, thanks for all your guy's help. I thought you might be interested to find out what it was.
In appreciation for your time, I have accepted your answers, and you can consider this case closed.