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Only please. 2004 Endeavor.. The transfer case it failed and…

DOUG only please Mechanic's...

DOUG only please

Mechanic's Assistant: What is the model/year of your Mitsubishi?

2004 Endeavor

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your Endeavor yourself? What have you tried so far?

Doug

Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?

The transfer case it failed and I replaced it . Now Im experiencing an intermittent rattle right under the stick shift especially with uneven roads or bumps. Very annoying. And for the first time yesterday reverse did not engage got code P0705 Transmission Range Sensor A Circuit (PRNDL Input) malfunction started. D and R or N can both be lit. Could this be related to the rattle under the shifter? I couldn’t find this part “Transmission Range

Mechanic's Assistant: Where exactly do you think the noise is coming from? And how long has this been going on?

Dumb question where is Doug

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Customer reply replied 28 days ago
The transfer case it failed and I replaced it . Now Im experiencing an intermittent rattle right under the stick shift especially with uneven roads or bumps. Very annoying. And for the first time yesterday reverse did not engage got code P0705 Transmission Range Sensor A Circuit (PRNDL Input) malfunction started. D and R or N can both be lit. Could this be related to the rattle under the shifter? I couldn’t find this part “Transmission Range Sensor”, only a Neutral Safety Switch. Is this the guilty part or could it be something else? https://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/JA4312/image/4/
Customer reply replied 27 days ago

Hi I will answer properly

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your Endeavor yourself? What have you tried so far?

If its an easy repair I will attempt it. If not i will buy the part and bring it to a mechanic. Nothing yet.

Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?

The transfer case failed and I replaced it months ago. Since then I'm experiencing an intermittent metallic rattle right under the stick shift especially with uneven roads or bumps. Very annoying. And for the first time yesterday reverse did not engage got code P0705 Transmission Range Sensor A Circuit (PRNDL Input) malfunction started. D and R or N can both be lit. Could this be related to the rattle under the shifter? I could not find this part “Transmission Range sensor" only a Neutral Safety Switch. Is this the guilty part or could it be something else?

Mechanic's Assistant: Where exactly do you think the noise is coming from?

Exactly under the gear shifter. But now I am more concerned with the above fault code and drivability of the vehicle.

Answered in 1 day by:
3/25/2018
Doug
Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8,659
Experience: Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
Verified

Hi,

There isn't anything particularly common that you would be expecting for either of these issues after a transfer case replacement.

For the rattle, obviously you'll want to look over your work first to check for things that might have gotten missed on reassembly. Based on what is easy to forget ok my experience when doing that job I would be looking at the following first:

Rear transmission mount bolts

Propeller shaft tunnel heat shields

Power steering hose support bracket is bolted to rear trans mount

Lateral support brace is tight (the ~20 inch bar tying the tunnel sides together)

With relation to the error code... I would be most suspicious of damage to the wiring harness while disassembling or rotating the engine/trans for clearance to get the transfer case out.

Specifically though, the code is indicating the park position switch (also referred to as neutral safety switch like you found) is reading incorrectly. This is the big plastic switch underneath the air box for the engine that has the shifter cable attached to it. Make sure your connections are all tight and look for any indication of running, misrouting, chaffing etc. While it is possible that the switch failed, given you had no problems before the transfer case swap it is more probable that there was some wiring damaged, something unplugged, or if the cable was removed (no reason to do so though) it was reinstalled in the wrong position.

Since it sounds like you are seeing more than one position lit up at once in the PRNDL, I would wager the cable was either detached and reinstalled out of position (in which case place the shifter in neutral and adjust the cable nut and two switch bolts so that the PRNDL reads correctly) or the cable may have stretched from rotating the engine extra far for transfer case clearance (same fix).

Doug
Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8,659
Experience: Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
Verified
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Customer reply replied 27 days ago
Funny with my worry about the car not engaging, to move it from a city street before a violation occurs I forgot to mention that concurrently the brights, and the timed wipers stopped working therefore its the wiring which will be checked first and hopefully that will cure everything. Your answers have helped me lot w my Endeavor. ThankYou! BTW - still driving one? Did the trans clip finally slip out or luckily stay in place?
Yeah that really sounds like something electrical is out of whack... Check your grounds are tight, no fuses popped too while you're looking things over.Yeah my wife is still driving her 04 AWD, turned I think 180k on it last week. Wave spring still intact (jinx!), I've worked on that car since it was two years old and bought it from the original owner several years back... Never had the transmission apart, only had a few fluid flushes. Fingers crossed it's one of the ones that holds together, I think at this point it should have let go by now if the wave spring was going to break or if the drive nut wasn't staked (my bigger fear).
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Customer reply replied 26 days ago
Funny, same thinking, should I sell it before the (shh) maybe goes., but Im too attached to it. Plus 2004 with just 78K on the OD!
This brings up a whole other question, which I might as well ask now. of course answer at your convenience. Here goes:
My Endeavor LS in automatic, shifts from 2nd to 3rd between 19 and 23 or so mph. When it does it delays for a split second then surges into 3rd gear. Then when I slow down it clunks back into 2nd. It happens every time no exception. I can control its intensity by letting up on the gas just before it wants to shift. A transmission guy told me that "Lubeguard" will minimize it however I added it and it felt even less buffered, harder. So I drained and refilled the tranny with only proper Diamond ATF. I am less worried when this mini-flare is soft, kind of buffered, not revving long or knocking into place as would a trans needing overhaul. It has not gotten worse over the 10,000 miles Ive driven this car. It’s a drag though esp in city traffic going 2nd to 3rd and back to 2nd constantly in stop and go. Lurch upshift, clunk downshift, and 2nd has a pull like a big old truck.
I would like to know if it actually can be repaired as stated in the TSB-05-23-004REVII, 2-3 shift flare bulletin. Or, is this just a sign of a slowly failing transmission or just the way it is.
Am I hurting the trans running it without this (great) expense. Is the Powertrain Computer or PCM not seeing the specified rpm change that occurs during a shift from 2nd gear to 3rd gear. Do I need to change input/ouput sensors? Do I need to have an OBDll clearing of values as you mentioned somewhere? Thankyou
They're just good tough cars. They aren't outstanding at anything other than being good enough at everything :). My wife has mentioned getting a new car a few times, told her that's fine but we keep the endeavor. They don't make them like that anymore.Your shifting issue... Before anything else get it on a Mitsubishi scan tool and do a learned value reset, then unhook the battery for 30 seconds or so and see how it behaves. The logic on these can sometimes get a little screwy and that may be all it is. If it were only delaying going into 3rd but not shifting back to 2nd I'd say there's a engagement issue either low pressure or thin clutches... However with there being issues in both directions I'd be suspicious of the software first. While on the scan tool if it hasn't been done in the past few years checking the software update level would be good too. They haven't had a new software in probably 8+ years though, so if it's been done since then it should be current. Just a learned value reset would be it.If there is no improvement then you could look into doing the tsb, but honestly I've seen that like once ever... It wasn't terribly common. As well, you could always pull the end plate off and inspect it for wear if you wanted to prior to just replacing it. However while it can be done in the car, my personally feeling is that if you are doing component repairs at that level and at this age (not like this is a 30k car with the defect on the plate etc caught early), you might as well pull the trans and fully go through it.There is no real harm in driving it the way it is as long as you aren't riding it hard through the delay (increasing shift shock and wear). Being gentle on the gas pedal to lighten the effect will essentially prevent any excess wear.
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Customer reply replied 26 days ago
OK, Ive got my list of to dos. I usually avoid the dealer, I mean they are so friendly but at $150ph labor, well I usually go to a small shop in the industrial part of town but I will go there and do the scan and maybe 1 or 2 free recall items. You are a great resource and Ill be back to justask! Thanx again. Regards
Yeah it's a bummer, unfortunately that reset is pretty much dealer only (a few other scan tools have it, but I have found their reliability of ours execution suspect).Good luck!
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Customer reply replied 22 days ago
I took it to an auto electric mechanic who found wiring in the driver quarter panel that had been poorly spliced due to an accident front left. Probably 2 or so wires came apart. Anyway all functions are back working including the shifter with accurate LEDs. No codes. BUT no check engine light which I told him to fix. He said its the bulb in the console and a whole nother job$. I put that off. So car is running great and soon Ill go to Potamkin Mitsubishi to get the tsb0423002learnedvaluereset and some f-reecalls. The seats rebolted and the gas filler fixed. Come to think of it a cel bulb with just 74K isnt likely. Well, I learn as I go, but with that Endeavor, I go. Im glad about Endy fans, theyre rare. The paints holding up too, unlike my old Galant.

Hey that's awesome, good find!

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