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Loss of power idles rough at infrequent times will only do…

Loss of power idles...

Loss of power idles rough at infrequent times will only do 40 kph 3.2 diesel will not bring up a fault

Mechanic's Assistant: Is the rough idle intermittent or consistent?

Intermittent

Mechanic's Assistant: What is the model/year of your Mitsubishi?

2007 triton

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your vehicle yourself? What have you tried so far?

Been to Mitsubishi dealer and they have no idea

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Answered in 3 hours by:
3/18/2018
350matt
350matt, Engineer
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 23,447
Experience: Mechanical Engineer BEng Hons22 years experience in car engine industry, 10 years in formula 1
Verified

Hello and welcome to Just Answer

A rough idle on these is often a clogged up EGR so check the connections to the EGR valve, if either the vacuum pipe of electrical connection are damaged / corroded then the EGR can be on all time which certainly will hurt performance. Its also possible that its a fault with the EGR valve so its worth removing the valve and cleaning it out with brake cleaner, if it looks particularly clogged then replace it.

This could be an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for causing rough running.
As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.
Now you might think that spraying lighter gas around a hot engine isn’t wise, however the flash /ignition point of gas is about 400°C so you need a naked flame or spark to set it off and I’ve used this method for many years without incident.
Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

Air leaks are very temperature dependent as gaps can open up as things expand with temperature so depending on how the leak occurs ( on a hose joint with a clamp expansion will help seal and on a vacuum hose expansion will make a leak worse) so leaks can be better or 1 vacuum leak path that you won't find with the above test is if the brake servo is leaking
so try clamping off servo hose to see if this has any effect

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350matt
350matt, Engineer
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 23,447
Experience: Mechanical Engineer BEng Hons22 years experience in car engine industry, 10 years in formula 1
Verified
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