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This question is for. It's for because I've read a bunch of…

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This question is for Doug.It's...
This question is for Doug.It's for Doug because I've read a bunch of related posts from him on this and am certain he'd know what I'm talking about.I've had hydrolic tensioner noise on my 2002 Eclipse GT with 200k miles(all of which may very well have been on that timing belt). After sitting for 2 days in blowing snow I start it. In probably 30 seconds I back up and pull forward, then slip it back into neutral as a habit as I go down a steep bumpy gravel/dirt driveway. So it's only slowly rolling down that, which is rutted right through there but also snow covered. Within like 50 feet it cuts out. No noise though and again going like 5mph in neutral. So kind of didn't seem it had to be timing belt. I only knew it died as the brakes got hard. The tank was also rather low but just above turning the fuel light on an it is a steep angle at first. Also recently discovered a fair hole just below where you poor gas in. This info may or may not be useful.Tow'd to shop which had it for 6 weeks. They changed timing belt. They then put 3 new fuel pumps in it, thinking various things were happening to those. So 4 if you include what I had in it. They then send it off to a Mitsubishi dealer.The dealer made it sound like checking the computer was not an easy task and were trying to find it via other things first. I've since removed the computer(as that was their conclusion and wanted $1500 which I said no to). When I removed the computer it sure took some doing and it made me wonder if they could have ever checked it or not. Especially since I said leave it apart and it took me a lot more work to get it out.I've got a used computer, key/tumbler and immobilizer coming tomorrow. Yet I'm checking things myself now since I finally can for the first time....sever weeks into this. I just have this feeling it's not the computer but don't know much.Doug had told someone how to check the crankshaft sensor on this gt at the harness and where that was and I did that yesterday.I get the 12 and 5 volts at key on. I did that by unconnecting the two. I then wanted to do the cranking readings check on that and was like, ok they need to be connected back together to do that. I then discovered back probing. But first when one puts these two together there are a bunch of engine clicks....relays? It's something from over in that direction. First wondering if that is normal. But then the one time after they were fully connected that clicking went nuts. For a decent period of time just a long string of that randomly clicking. Never could get that to repeat and happen again.Back probing with them connected I found the 12 volt again. This before I bother cranking, just to see if I'm getting the probe in there. But on the 5 volt one while connected and back probing I can't get any volts. I then thought, I could probably make sure the back probe is in there far enough by checking it right at that halfway back together point when that clicking noise begins. And when I do that I actually get 9 volts. I did that two times and got 9 volts. But after I finish pushing that connector back together it is 0 again. And it's a for sure 0 because I know the backprobe is on that contact having done it part way connected first.So I wonder if that is telling me there is a short in that wire or the crank sensor. Is there any reason the 5 reads 5 on the upstream side while disconnected but once you connected them again you can't get anything but 0 now on the other side up the wire. Wasn't sure how that sensor works and if it's just what happens when connected. I'd think not since Doug said to check for 5 there key on and didn't mention anything else.Seems that sensor or wire must be bad. But given how long a shop and dealer had it you can imagine my wondering here. The other question is can the car run with a bad thing going on there like that if it is bad? As in the shop jumped the relay so the fuel pump would run. Is it possible to get the car running like that with a bad crank sensor. Because apparently they had it running that way.Just trying to sort as much out as possible before the computer arrives tomorrow since I may as well be ready for that to not work. And well having actual access to it now finally. And it having been over 7 weeks now.Thanks
Submitted: 4 months ago.Category: Mitsubishi
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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Edit: So I think these connected vs not-connected harness different readings must be normal and how the sensor works. I got the engine to "land" on 5 apparently just now. Then I get 5 volts still being there after being connected. I also get that odd 9 volts when pushing them just barely together to contact. But once finishing pushing them back together it's 5. Which is at least not zero. Turn the car over again and then it was back to the 0 thing after connected. Tried a few more times and got the 5 landing again and everything repeated like before. So I take that much is normal.I noticed a few things though. That clicking noise when connecting the connectors doesn't happen when I have the engine landed on 5 volt spot. You can pull them apart and put them back together over and over and zero noises. Get the engine landed back on 0 volt spot and each time you connect them the computer or relay or whatever makes the brief clicking noise. Perhaps that is normal as well.I for some reason decided to try to back probe the 3rd wire with the needle. When I did that I got that long sequence of computer relay clicking noises to happen again. Just clicking galore right when I did that. I then thought about checking the spark plugs for oil. I disconnected one which had a damn tight cord that they had to have had that way. So I undid the one nest to it to unflop them. The second I unhooked that one I got another one of those long sequences of tons of clicking.The battery ground cable has been finicky in the past and still is. That one time when trying to start it killed all the power to the car completely. Except I had probed the connector and got a 12 and a 12 but wasn't sure that second 12 wasn't on that other wire instead of the 5 one or not. But I fixed the negative cable and that went away and got power back to the rest of the car.Hopefully something in this info triggers some good conclusion. That or it's just the computer and when that gets here tomorrow that starts my car for the first time in almost 2 months.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
about the ground cable. It's just that it's really hard to tighten it without cranking an angle on the post the way it is in there. And right now I've been having to disconnect it and reconnect it taking the computer, key immobilize out then deciding to put them back in to try some stuff first. And knowing I have to take them back out tomorrow. So Ive pushed it on the post but not went out of my way to mess up the battery. One would think it was tight enough to be grounded but yeah really have to get on that nut a bit. Anyway, it should be solid enough while doing this. Yet it's strange. It's acted fine as is but I back probe and that time trying to start the car kills it all and you have to go and tighten the negative. Like why would it be fine all that time till messign with something else unless that something else(the connector) did have problems(like if that 9 volt reading on the 5 line is odd when only partially connected....that and the other random computer clicking cascade times).
Answered in 15 hours by:
3/16/2018
Mitsubishi Mechanic: Amedee, Mitsubishi Technician replied 4 months ago
Amedee
Amedee, Mitsubishi Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 28,124
Experience: ASE Technician advanced level specialist. Wisconsin certified emissions state inspector
Verified

Hello and welcome!

My name isCustomerand I can assist you with your question.

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Mitsubishi Mechanic: Amedee, Mitsubishi Technician replied 4 months ago

I apologize for the extended wait time you experienced, I've only just come online now and would like to assist you.

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Mitsubishi Mechanic: Amedee, Mitsubishi Technician replied 4 months ago

So after the engine has stalled out, it cranks but wont start is that correct? Are you looking for some possible causes or would you like me to walk you through this diagnoses?

If I could get your VIN that would be great. If you would like to speak on the phone, that will make things much easier for both of us and will go much faster, simply request a phone call on your end and I will call you right away.

I am looking forward to your reply.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
2002 eclipse GT 3.0
1.
Shop apparently got it to run with I think 2nd fuel pump relay jumped, the one the computer triggers after getting rpm(suggesting maybe bad crank sensor). Would this car even run with a bad crankshaft sensor? This could answer for me if that's a potential issue or not.2.
Crankshaft wiring comes out of timing cover and up to a harness connection you can disconnect. 3 wires. 1 should read 12v and the other 5v with key on. When one cranks I think 5v wire is supposed to switch between 5 and 0 which sends rpm info. I haven't tested that because I got caught up just reading it and no one else around anyway to watch it or crank. But it seems depending on where the engine stops it reads 5 or 0 when the key is on. While I have the engine stopped on "5 v" when I pull that harness connection apart and put it back together you hear clicking around the engine, just brief clicking, maybe a relay or two, something. But when the engine has landed on "0 v" and that is the reading I'm getting I don't get that clicking noise when disconnecting/reconnecting the harness. Is that normal?3.
I noticed with a backprobe in that on the 5v line that right at that connection point that triggers the clicking noise(the initial point the connects in there actually touch) that that 5 or 0v line reads a 9v. Is that normal?4.
Once when backprobing that 3rd wire in that it apparently triggered a much longer sequence of clicking, like a whole bunch. The very same thing happened when I pulled 2 spark wires. The first wire didn't seem to kick it off but second I pulled the 2nd one out I got that very long sequence of clicking to happen. Is that normal?5.
If I figure out how they jumped a relay to get it running and it runs, how bad is that to drive a short distance? I mean apparently it's just finishing the sequence to the fuel pump that the computer isn't currently finishing.6.
I have a used computer, key/tumbler and immobilzer from the same car coming off ebay today that I hope fixes this as a shop had this 6 weeks and put 3 new fuel pumps in it and did timing. Then sent to a dealer which had it a week before finally going to the computer like was asked by the shop. After I actually pulled the computer I'm not certain they could have gotten to it given I had them leave things apart instead of putting things back together since I wasn't going for the $1500 new computer answer they had when I could go thsi uses route for $130. Is there another location along those wires they could have accessed it? I had to pull the heater cores duct out to finally get it out.7.
Maybe the most important question is I'm wondering if there's anything in those points on clicking noises suggesting there's a short somewhere or not that may damage this "new" computer i'm about to toss in today when it gets here.Thanks
Mitsubishi Mechanic: Amedee, Mitsubishi Technician replied 4 months ago
  • I don't believe the engine will start and run without a crank signal.
  • YES that is normal
  • I would need to know what circuit this is on.
  • Too early to tell
  • I would not recommend it
  • YES
  • It is possible
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Mitsubishi Mechanic: Amedee, Mitsubishi Technician replied 3 months ago

Hello there!

I am just checking in to see how things are going and to see if you need any further assistance?

If so, please let me know as I will be happy to help.

Best Regards,

Customer/p>

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