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2001 Mitsubishi Galant. The Galant keeps stalling. I changed…

Customer Question
2001 Mitsubishi Galant Mechanic's...

2001 Mitsubishi Galant

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your Galant yourself? What have you tried so far?

The Galant keeps stalling. I changed the fuel pump, battery, iac, timing belt, engine balance shaft belt, seals, crank shaft position sensor, and water pump. Changes codes and keeps stalling.

Mechanic's Assistant: Have you changed a battery before?

Yes

Submitted: 3 months ago.Category: Mitsubishi
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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
We changed the fuel pump first. The when we drove the car it died out of the blue. No warning just shut off. No warning complete everything turned off. We changed the battery. We ran in on OBD got code 501 idle air, changed that, the got code 335 crankshaft position sensor, replaced that and did the timing, seals belts and water pump, and now we are getting code 340 camshaft position sensor. But the car is still stalling and dying
Answered in 40 minutes by:
3/6/2018
Mitsubishi Mechanic: 350matt, Engineer replied 3 months ago
350matt
350matt, Engineer
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 23,204
Experience: Mechanical Engineer BEng Hons22 years experience in car engine industry, 10 years in formula 1
Verified

Hello and welcome to Just Answer

This sounds like an electrical actuator or sensor at fault .If you can cycle the ignition key on / off and then restart the engine and the fault is gone temporarily this indicates that this is an electrical component causing this issue.

This could be a wiring issue as things tend to expand when hot and its possible a poor or partial electrical connection is being pushed apart on one of the major sensors so check the connection plug and wiring to the following;
Airflow meter
Crank position sensor
Cam position sensor
O2 sensor
Throttle position sensor

unplug each in turn and use some switch / contact cleaner spray on the pins to ensure its all grease / dirt free

Also worth checking the connections to the fuel pump for the same reason - unplug each in turn and give them a good squirt of switch / contact cleaner - Not WD40

and also unplug and inspect the main power relays and fuses for signs of overheating or corroded terminals - so the ones for the ECU and the fuel pump

And also unplug the wiring loom connections in the engine bay one at time and inspect for corroded or recessed pins.

Check the resistance of the spark plug leads ( 13-15Kohm / metre) and replace if any doubt or high resistance - Also replace the spark plugs if any of them fail this checklist:

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/faqs/spark-plug-faqs/how-do-i-read-a-spark-plug

Also its worth checking that the electric pump that feeds the injectors is working correctly, it should run for a few seconds then switch off when you first turn the ignition on. If the connections to this are corroded or damaged then the pump could stop at any time. Check that its relay switches in and out and the relay contacts are clean and bright – replace the relay if in any doubt and do the same for the fuse, ideally measure the voltage at the pump and check its getting 12V

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